Hello, internet friends.

I recently joined a shooting range and I’ve plunged myself into competitive pistol matches. I’m shooting much more than I ever have (over a 1000 rounds per month) so I obviously need to start reloading. I’m willing to invest in a quality progressive unit but I have some of Dad’s old equipment that I can use to get comfortable if that makes more sense initially. Dad’s goal was different as he was more concerned with lower volume, high consistency loads.

Here’s what I have:

Single Stage Press made by the man who made my father’s custom rifles (weighs a ton!)



Case Trimmer



Powder Thrower and Trickler



Loading Books



Digital Caliper and Bullet Puller



I guess the first question is whether to buy a new progressive press or use this relic? I know ZERO about the various presses but the Hornady Lock-N-Load caught my eye because it seems to be the best method of switching calibers without re-calibrating every die. I’ll be doing a lot of 9mm and 38 Special. Downside - it seems a little complicated to assemble and set up for a beginner. I’m not dead set on this particular press so other recommendations are welcome.

In addition to the press, it looks like I’ll need a method of cleaning brass. I have no idea about the pros/cons of wet vs dry. All I know is that I don’t want a mess on my hands!

What cartridges are you planning to reload, rifle or pistol?

post this downstairs in the reloading section

all your questions will be answered and more

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
What cartridges are you planning to reload, rifle or pistol?

He wrote: "I’ve plunged myself into competitive pistol matches. I’m shooting much more than I ever have (over a 1000 rounds per month) so I obviously need to start reloading."

In looking at that press it's rather obvious that it is a bit over built for handguns, however it should do the job. One thing that isn't clear is what that bit of wire in front of the shell holder is supposed to do, personally I would lose that because you do not need it for handgun ammo. Heck, I dont think it would prove very useful for rifle ammo but I can only guess at it's purpose.

What you will need are die sets specifically for the caliber(s) you'll be reloading. As for the Hornady Lock & Load, from what I've read you will be restricted to ornady dies and I am NOT a fan of Titanium Nitride because it's a poor substitute for Carbide. My Die sets are actually a mix and match affair because I like RCBS sizing dies but loathe their flaring dies. So for flaring I have a Lee Powder Through Flaring die for every handgun caliber I load. Bullet seating dies are all RCBS and for crimping I use a Lee Factory Crimp die. Note, the RCBS are capable of being set up for Seating and Crimping in a combined operation but I have found nothing but problems in trying to do this so I always Seat and Crimp in separate operations.

As for the "advantage" of quicker die changes with the Lock & Load dies you would still have to adjust the die to the specific bullet you are loading with. Personally I like RCBS dies because they are well made and you can purchase as many individual bullet seating dies as you might need.

BTW, that is the key trick to not having to adjust a seating die for a specific bullet and length. What I do is take a new seating die, use some cold bluing on the collar and then engrave the bullet type and OAL length on the die using a 2mm diameter diamond ball burr in a dremel. Then I set the die to those parameters and leave it alone after that. Currently I have 4 seating dies for 38 special, 3 for 357 Magnum, 3 for 9mm, 1 for 40 S&W, and 3 for 45 ACP. Yeah it did cost me a bit but it's a real time saver and time is money.

Note, sizing, flare, and crimp dies only need to be adjusted once, not every time you load a batch.

So listing what you have I see a press that will work but you will need a really solid bench for that beast. Think along the lines of something screwed together using 2 x 6 lumber with very well braced legs.

Next you have a very good powder measure but you will get more consistent charge weights if you get a Baffle for it. BTW a Baffle is a sort of round folded disk shaped thingy with notches that let the powder trickle into the lower portion of the measure. What it does is insure a consistent weight of powder on the charge drum.

I don't see any scale and that is a MUST. One somewhat inexpensive scale I can recommend is the RCBS model 505. Note, the Lee Safety scale is about 1/2 the cost of the RCBS but having started with one of these I can only recommend it be used for a paperweight. The RCBS is much much easier to set and it will hold it's zero setting on a bench with some vibration produced by the press, something the Lee scale will not.

Also don't see anything to charge cases with primers. I would suggest the RCBS universal hand primer because it can be set up for either Large of Small primers and you can charge cases while watching TV. BTW, charging cases with primers has to be one of the most tedious tasks in reloading.

You will also want something to clean cases and the finest method I have found is to use a wet tumbler with stainless steel pins. Yeah separating the cases from the pins can be a hassle at times but Frankfort Arsenal has a fairly low cost separator you can put over a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot. Frankfort Arsenal also has a wet tumbler that is fairly low in cost but the total cases per batch is a bit limited compared to the larger and more expensive Thumlers Tumbler model B.

You will also want at least 3 or 4 loading trays because just lining charged cases up on a bench top means that at some point you will be cleaning up cases that you knocked over on your bench. BTW, been there done that.

Those calipers will be quite useful when you are setting up your overall length. So make sure they still work and spend some time learning how to set the Zero and use them. If they don't work you can find decent digital calipers for about 30-40 dollars. Note, don't waste your money on Harbor Freight, the set I tried didn't last a week.

The case trimmer you won't need because only complete and total OCD's trim handgun brass. However if you ever take up loading for rifle calibers they are essential.

So

Press - Check

Dies - need to shop for some. Note Midway is a great source for individual dies or complete sets.

Scale - need to shop for one. Also available at Midway.

Powder Measure - Check. Note Midway may have a Baffle for that powder measure, typically they are a 5-10 dollar item.

Loading trays - shop at Midway.

Ammo boxes - you can recycle old boxes but it time they will get to looking pretty ragged. MTM has great boxes for about 2 bucks each and they are available at Midway.

Bullets - Also available at Midway but I only shop at Midway for premium bullets like Hornady XTP's. For general range use I get plated bullets from Extreme.

Primers are a HAZMAT item so if you have a Cabelas nearby get your primers there. If not then buy in bulk from Miday or Powder Valley, it will help defray the Hazmat fee.

Powder is also a Hazmat item so try and find it local if prices are reasonable. If that isn't an option I have found Powder Valley to be an excellent source and IIRC you can purchase up to a 48 lbs. maximum which will defray the 37 dollar Hazmat fee so you total cost will be cheaper than almost any other source.

Note on Hazmat shipping. As mentioned the fee is 37 dollars per shipped order and you also have to have an Adult present at the receiving location and mail box shops are NOT an option.

If by chance you live near Ohio then plan on a trip to Fin Feather & Fur in Ashland, Ohio and a side trip to the Sportmans Den in Shelby, Ohio. The Fin has a large selection of powders and bullets and the Sportsmans Den carries a decent selection of Vihtavouri powders and is a real hub for those loading for Shotguns, as in if you want a 1000 lbs. pallet of shot they keep a fork lift out front just to load you up.

The "little wire thingy" is probably a retainer for an actual shell holder. I don't think we are looking at an actual shell holder in that picture. Once you get that outfit going, it will probably produce 80 to 100 rounds per hour. A popular progressive press will typically do 300-500 rounds per hour depending on caliber. (Dillon 550)You didn't specify a caliber but you will need a tumble cleaner and it is a hobby that just keeps growing if you let it. The Lyman manual in your picture has most of the answers to your questions in sections 1 and 2 and a lot of other good information. I would do some reading there then ask questions on things that are not clear to you. No sense in anybody typing what you already have.

In one word go “Dillon”.

You will get more help if you move this to the reloading section.

You need a setup to clean your brass.

Vibrate dry with crushed walnut shell, or tumble wet with stainless pins seem to be the most popular.

While I can add much information, a bit of advice is what I'll offer up. The home built press is beautiful. Lube its pivot points and its vertical riser rods and never get rid of that. Keepsake.

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:

... As for the Hornady Lock & Load, from what I've read you will be restricted to Hornady dies ...

... As for the "advantage" of quicker die changes with the Lock & Load dies you would still have to adjust the die to the specific bullet you are loading with...

Not correct. I know for a fact that Lee dies will work in the Hornady press. I suspect some other brands will, as well.

I am very happy with my Hornady Lock-n-Load AP.

The advantage of the quick change bushings is that the dies can be quickly changed and they retain their adjustment. I switch between .223, .40 S&W and .357 SIG, and it is quick and painless. The bushings work with any die with the same threads. I have the Lee Factory Crimp Die for all of my calibers.

If you are in the Cincinnati/Dayton area of Ohio, check out Country Attic in South Lebanon.

I would use what you have there to get experience in reloading which will give you an idea what you would like to improve on.

dillion xl 650 and be done with it.

We took a reloading class at a Cabela's. Learned a lot.
My advice is to check out the sporting goods stores to see if there are such classes.
Also, ask at the ranges. It's possible there are people that reload and would like to help.

Step 1: Read Scooter123s post again and write down everything he said to buy.

Step 2: Add The ABCs off Reloading to it. Buy it and read it all the way through

Step 3: Reload.

I’d do the above long before I spent several hundred on any press. Spend some time figuring out the basics and working up loads before you start cranking out mass quantities.

Just my opinion.

quote:

Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Step 1: Read Scooter123s post again and write down everything he said to buy.

Step 2: Add The ABCs off Reloading to it. Buy it and read it all the way through

Step 3: Reload.

I’d do the above long before I spent several hundred on any press. Spend some time figuring out the basics and working up loads before you start cranking out mass quantities.

Just my opinion.

I agree I started with Lee single stage press. I learn how to load development.I could load up to 60 rounds per min, stopping and checking for constantly.

On my Lee press I developed loads for 7 pistols and 2 loads for rifle. 10,000 rounds later I upgraded to a Dillon 550B.

When I went to Dillon I upgraded my dies from Lee to RCBS, Dillon, and Redding. I still used some Lee dies as needed. I can now load up to 400 rounds per min.

Start with a single press, learn the basics, before you move into a progressive press.

Single stage press for pistol gets old real quick.

The Lee 4 hole turret press is OK for pistol reloading:
1) size/decap/prime
2) flare/powder
3) bullet seat
4) factory crimp

When you change calibers, drop in another turret base; they're only $15 and easily swapped. Just swap the powder dispenser top.

The Lee powder drop is accurate enough for most pistol shooting. I added the adjustable charge bar.

Everyone wants shiny brass, including me, but it is not necessary.

A digital scale is a must. I use a cheap Frankford Arsenal.

Start with a slower burning powder.

quote:

Originally posted by cne32507:
Single stage press for pistol gets old real quick.

Agreed.

There is no need to start with a single stage press. As someone else mentioned, pick up a Dillon progressive (whichever model you like) and be done with it.

That homemade contraption you have there is pretty cool as far as homemade stuff goes, but it is likely just going to aggravate you to the point that you might end up not liking reloading at all...especially for pistol.

I do do all of my rifle reloading on a single stage press though as I'm very meticulous with every step and every single grain of powder. Usually taking several hours to load just 50 rounds. At that rate with pistol rounds, I'd either quit shooting or quit reloading.

quote:

Originally posted by lyman:
post this downstairs in the reloading section

In case anybody's having trouble locating it: Reloading, which is cleverly hidden directly under Ammunition.

quote:

Originally posted by lyman:
all your questions will be answered and more

Being as that's where people who are heavily into reloading hang out, and where questions about reloading are usually asked, I'd say that's a pretty good bet

I'm just going to mention that the most important piece of equipment for reloading is your brain. You have got to use it every time the whole time. That, and don't vary from published data for a long time. Stay with what is already proven. Don't use someone else's recipes either. You can't believe how annoying it is to disassemble 200 rounds or even 2000 rounds because something went wrong. That's the least of it. Imagine blowing a favored gun up and/or harming yourself or others. Stay with published data and start low and work up. Knowing what pressure signs are and look like as well as having a chrony are help when the time comes to get creative or push the envelope. Published data is pretty conservative. Ski in bounds.

Thanks for all the input. Lots of information to absorb!

Not sure what the wire thingy is. Here’s a photo of it removed from the press.


Dies - I’ll be loading 9mm and 38 Special. Certain die eliminate the need for lubing the case? Looks like LEE wins for crimp.

Scale – I have dad’s antique scale but I’ll buy the RCBS 505 for simplicity.

Powder Measure – I’ll get a baffle for the Lyman.

HAZMAT – I haven’t picked a load from the book so I don’t know which powder I’ll be using yet. When I’m ready, I’ll wait for a promotion where HAZMAT ships with no fee.

Tumbler – I’ll look into the Frankford Arsenal I’ll check some Youtube vids to see if separation is as big a PIA as it looks.

Bullets – Berry’s seem to be very popular with the competitors. I see many of them with red, blue or green bullets.

Thanks again for taking the time!