You can easily pick up a used Ultegra 11 speed medium cage derailleur for ~$35-40, and as 2012BOSS302 posted, new for $60. That said, you may not necessarily need it.

Derailleur cage length has more to do with total tooth capacity rather than large cog capacity. Longer cages have more tooth capacity because the diameter of the "arc of derailleur cage swing" (not at all technical term) is greater, meaning that you can have more variation between you small/small combo, and large/large combo with the derailleur still applying tension to your chain at both extremes.

The "short cage" rear derailleur is set up for up to 28t max rear cassette with your typical 16 tooth variation in the front with a compact crank (50-34 = 16t). You however are running a 46t large ring, meaning you only have a 10t variation now, and a 12t if you opt for a 34t front. That means going from a 28t to a 32t rear cassette still keeps you within the total tooth capacity specs of the short cage rear derailleur.

Where you might run into a bit of trouble is your upper pulley striking your inner 32t ring on your cassette. But there is a solution for that! Go to your local Ace Hardware or Fastenal, pick up a 25mm or 30mm M4 screw, and replace your stock B-tension screw. Be careful not to lose the little plastic piece when you remove your old one -- you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. The B-tension screw adjusts the angle of your rear derailleur to improve shifting and avoid cassette/pulley strikes. I give it a solid 80% chance this should work for you.

Good luck and glad to hear you have discs.

quote:

Originally posted by caneau:

Where you might run into a bit of trouble is your upper pulley striking your inner 32t ring on your cassette. But there is a solution for that! Go to your local Ace Hardware or Fastenal, pick up a 25mm or 30mm M4 screw, and replace your stock B-tension screw. Be careful not to lose the little plastic piece when you remove your old one -- you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. The B-tension screw adjusts the angle of your rear derailleur to improve shifting and avoid cassette/pulley strikes. I give it a solid 80% chance this should work for you.

This is what I am going to attempt, I will order a GS derailluer and use if needed.

Besides all the bike info, you should get here a few days earlier, get acclimated to the altitude, stay very hydrated, many a flat lander have keeled over at altitude.

quote:

Originally posted by valkyrie1:
Besides all the bike info, you should get here a few days earlier, get acclimated to the altitude, stay very hydrated, many a flat lander have keeled over at altitude.

My very athletic son, a distance runner hiked a 14er the day he arrived when he moved to Colorado to work at a summer camp. Said it about killed him. I asked how long before he got used to it. About an hour.

Before he left he was quite acclimatized to altitude. He played in an ice hockey league in Aspen which is about 8460'. He was a ski instructor in Aspen and there was one run that you could exit the lift and ride a snow cat to the top. He was impatient and instead of waiting for the snow cat he'd throw his skis over his shoulder and run to the top, arriving there quicker than those who waited.

He'd ski all day and play a hockey game in the evening.

quote:

Originally posted by valkyrie1:
Besides all the bike info, you should get here a few days earlier, get acclimated to the altitude, stay very hydrated, many a flat lander have keeled over at altitude.

I am not taking this lightly, hence looking at bailout gears. This would be the highest I biked by far. I have run Fuji and Mauna Kea, but that was years ago. Have done MT biking in CO in the 8 to 9k range recently and hiked Longs Peak last summer, although at slow pace.

I hopefully will have 3 days to acclimatize, weather dependent, and yes I will be hydrated. Thanks for the reminder.

The altitude is not something to be taken lightly. I've lived in Co Springs for years (so I am as acclimatized as I can get), but the last time I drove to the top of Pikes Peak (2 weeks ago), I was a bit light-headed and dizzy just by walking around. . .

I always wanted to bike up the Peak, but after this last trip, I changed that goal to riding down after getting a ride to the top.

Regardless, it's an unforgettable experience just being there. I still remember when we went there on a family trip in 1976. It's breathtaking (literally and figuratively).


Oh, and don't forget the temperature difference. It's generally 20-40 degrees cooler at the top than it is in the city. When I was there 2 weeks ago, it was actually snowing at the top. People usually dress in layers for biking/hiking to the top, so they can add/remove clothing as needed.

I drove a Honda Civic up there and was amazed how smooth the engine sounded at the top of Pikes Peak with all cylinders chuffing on thin air. Then I did some acceleration tests and the normal power was really down. My guess is 1/4 to 1/3 of less than 1000' or lower power.

I really buzzed the engine on way down with engine braking and assumed I had done a good job of keeping the brakes cool. I was still flagged for a cool down break at a check point.

It was funny to see the temp gage drop on the way down. Way below normal operating temps.

With the steepness and altitude, I'd ride a triple front chainwheel setup if I were going to ride up it. Take lots more food and water than you'll think you need, since it might take longer with breaks.

quote:

Originally posted by pbslinger:
How many Croms is it to climb Pikes Peak?

Only .475 Statute Croms, or .413 Nautical Croms.

quote:

I'd ride a triple front chainwheel setup if I were going to ride up it.

Triple = great idea.
I don't know how much expense the OP is willing to go to for this mountain setup, but a road triple is highly underrated. You can get low enough with a compact double, but you never get the finer gradiations of gears that you can get with a triple.

If I get another road bike or switch groups, my next one will be a triple. But I am getting old

What the OP needs to understand (probably does) is that just riding around Colorado Springs you're already at 6000'. Equipment is secondary to the engine driving it. If you are confident in your abilities then you will know what equipment you need. The triple bypass was cancelled this year due to fires but it is a great ride. Trail ridge road is more scenic even if you just stop at rainbow curve. For loaded touring i basically had a road bike with mountain bike 8 speed gearing. Its hard looking down at your computer that says 3mph. Pedal breathe pedal breathe...

quote:

Originally posted by Crom:

quote:

Originally posted by pbslinger:
How many Croms is it to climb Pikes Peak?

Only .475 Statute Croms, or .413 Nautical Croms.

quote:

I'd ride a triple front chainwheel setup if I were going to ride up it.

Triple = great idea.
I don't know how much expense the OP is willing to go to for this mountain setup, but a road triple is highly underrated. You can get low enough with a compact double, but you never get the finer gradiations of gears that you can get with a triple.

If I get another road bike or switch groups, my next one will be a triple. But I am getting old

You gave us everything but the Croms in kilometers.

I bought a really nice custom built bike a couple of years ago with a triple Campagnolo Veloce group on a nice riding steel Franklin Frames frame. I thought about making it into a double, but since I'm also "marching down lifes' pathway" I decided to leave it a triple.

Might be handy on very long rides when tired, or if I ever ride in very hilly terrain.