Model # GTWN4250D1WS. Machine will not deliver hot water. Hot water at the tap, line not clogged, screen clean. I went and replaced the hot/cold water valve, figuring that would be it, still ng. Sure, I could have bought another bad valve. Wife been complaining that it seems would restart and run for hours, doesn't respond to input from start/stop button. Skipping cycles, not spinning and draining completely, just being the POS that every other GE appliance in this house has become, including stove, dryer and fridge. All appliances are not even 4 yrs, old yet.
Please help, thanks to all.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: apf383,

I'm wondering if maybe the internal computer board is bad, which is the reason for the other issues in addition to not getting hot water.

I'm thinking that as well Ryan. That's what happened with the fridge not 6 months in. Mother board junk.

I’ve bought used parts on eBay for a fraction of new. I just put a new power control unit in my Maytag Dryer. $78 vs $200 new.

Mcrimm, I got the valve from ebay but have not discounted its potential to be junk as well.

I plugged the last new computerized washing machine we bought into a good surge protector. Maybe it helped.

quote:

Originally posted by apf383:
Mcrimm, I got the valve from ebay but have not discounted its potential to be junk as well.

For me, it's a risk worth taking. Generally, if it is a dud, Ebay will refund. Time is an element if you run out of underwear......

I would just replace it with a WHirlpool/maytag. By the time you add up the parts cost of the water solenoid valve you replaced, and then by the time you keep throwing parts and time at it, you're pretty soon at the $500-600 price of a new quality washer. With the various other issues, it surely sounds like a motherboard to me. Have you tried unplugging it for 30 minutes and plugging it back in?

My next washer dryer will be a Speed Queen set with 7 yr warranty and top load design.
They are all over the neighborhood Facebook page. The ladies are loving them.
The local old school Worthley’s appliance store is a platinum dealer, and keeps them in stock, we looked at them after the buzz online.
The washer still has the agitator unlike the new models.
Soon as we get our floors redone in will come a Wisconsin made set.

HK Ag

quote:

Have you tried unplugging it for 30 minutes and plugging it back in?

Yes, tried that as well Jimmy. Still ng. Thanks though.

quote:

Originally posted by HK Ag:
My next washer dryer will be a Speed Queen set with 7 yr warranty and top load design.
They are all over the neighborhood Facebook page. The ladies are loving them.
The local old school Worthley’s appliance store is a platinum dealer, and keeps them in stock, we looked at them after the buzz online.
The washer still has the agitator unlike the new models.
Soon as we get our floors redone in will come a Wisconsin made set.

HK Ag

Are they still good? I thought the 2018 model year was crap. I'm wanting a good set myself.

If I start the machine intending to do a load of whites, it will only put cold water in the machine. When I turn off the cold at the wall with the valve, and leave only the hot valve open, I get no water entering the machine. Anyone, anyone???

And as my unorthodox trouble shooting methods continue, switching the lead from the hot water valve, over to the cold water valve, and vice versa, gets me hot water. Ive got to wait for the next cycle to see if I get cold as I'm way behind in towels!!! So it would seem that my hot water valve is not getting the signal, so where do I go next?

Computer controls the water valve.

Check continuity on both valve solenoids for comparison/values. You know the cold works...

I'm going with circuit board on this.

Update, control board replaced for 94.00, solonoid replaced for 14.00, which apparently wasn't necessary, machine back up and running as it should!!! Total of 108.00, still cheaper than the guy coming, and I've got a spare solonoid for when it eventually fails. Wife happy. Thanks guys.

quote:

Originally posted by apf383:
Update, control board replaced for 94.00, solonoid replaced for 14.00, which apparently wasn't necessary, machine back up and running as it should!!! Total of 108.00, still cheaper than the guy coming, and I've got a spare solonoid for when it eventually fails. Wife happy. Thanks guys.

Good job. You saved some money and learned something I bet that will help you next time.