I need a wheel bearing for my Sienna. One side was changed 5 years back and it's time for the driver side. I hadn't priced just the bearing because I don't have access to a arbor press and, it's otherwise a load of work to disassemble the unit just to install the new bearing. The whole assembly can be had for less than $ 100.00 shipped. This is looking real good for all new parts. Would you who know advise buying the assembly ? I don't see a better way when the assembly is nearly plug and play except for torque and alignment. What do you fellas think ?

Just be sure to get one with a good bearing brand, like SKF or Timken (do a search including those brands).
I have all the stuff to do the disassembly and reassembly but it's so much easier to buy a plug & play one.

I did similar for a rear wheel bearing on my Civic. Ordered from rockauto & DIY. But I did have access to a lift which made it a lot easier.
If a front wheel or awd, a bit more involved, having to deal with the axles & such.

Moog and Timkin are too pricey just now. Still on line shopping here.

Buy the whole assembly. It still sucks, but a lot easier than trying to rebuild the thing with tools you don't have, and a lot cheaper than paying somebody else to do it. And the money for the Moog or Timken part will be worth it, because you do won't want to have to do it again.

I did one on our Chevy Venture in an AutoZone parking lot in Joplin, Missouri one time, with the store's loaner tools and my very limited roadtrip toolbox (that incident is why I now carry a much bigger box!). We were midway through a trip from Tucson, AZ back home to Indiana. It was 100 degrees and took me 2 or 3 hours (most of which was beating on the CV Axle until I finally broke down and bought a slide hammer and CV Axle tool). It was not a good time, nor was it something I'd ever willingly repeat.

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Originally posted by David Lee:
Moog and Timkin are too pricey just now. Still on line shopping here.

You don’t want Moog. They are junk these days.
SKF or Timkin is correct.
However if you those are out of the budget get the cheapest with the longest warranty as it will die fairly quickly.

Doesn’t the Sienna’s full assembly include the knuckle?

I am doing similar work on a '95 Jeep Wrangler at the moment. The good hub assemblies cost twice as much as basic Chinese ones. As much as I want the good ones, as much as I'd like the security they potentially afford, and as much as I like to avoid patronizing China, I simply can't afford to pay twice as much right now.

My research shows that folks very seldom rebuild the hubs on this particular Jeep. Rebuild kits don't even exist on the typical go-to Jeep parts sites.

In either case, my work is very easy, as I don't have to contend with CV axles.

It's just a crap shoot. I'm on the second 100,000 miles on front hub assemblies I replaced on my Dodge truck. They were the cheapest Chinese part I could find on Amazon, but it's a 30 minute job and basically five fasteners total on that truck. No 4 wheel drive. Timkin, Smith, SKF or other premium bearing would obviously probably be a better choice for anyone not concerned with price.

I always get the whole assembly.

Get the whole assembly and the warranty as long as possible as stated above.

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SKF or Timken

Or a FAG





Reminded me of my Schwienfurt days

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Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
Moog and Timkin are too pricey just now. Still on line shopping here.

You don’t want Moog. They are junk these days.
SKF or Timkin is correct.
However if you those are out of the budget get the cheapest with the longest warranty as it will die fairly quickly.

Doesn’t the Sienna’s full assembly include the knuckle?

Yes. The steering knuckle, dust shield, hub, races, bearing, snap ring and seal. They are Chinese built and 10 year warranty.

I think the SKF are either France or China.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
Moog and Timkin are too pricey just now. Still on line shopping here.

Go with SKF or Timkin. For the amount of labor that's involved in changing this, you don't want to do it twice. The price difference for the good part is well worth it!!!!

The Interwebz have me suspect of any big brand name auto parts from other than a very reputable online seller. Anything can be counterfeit. Buy from a big name or local branch. I have received a few parts than are supposed to brand name but arrive in a plastic bag in a shipping box.

Toyota uses Koyo bearings in their hubs for the 4runner. I would think that the Sienna would use the same Japanese made bearing.

It turns out the bearing is fine. Zero play anywhere. Tie rod is solid, ball joint is solid, CV axle is eating itself slowly and, I am driving her rather careful, secondary roads here only as she has that frequent hop at driver side front and steering wheel wobble. It is too cold and snowy just now so next week, in my friends garage she goes for the new axle then, new steer tires bolted on with new 1 piece lug nuts. I am familiar with the CV axle issues and, I believe my friends computer thingy monitors ATF Temps for adding back fluid. We got a little more snow coming in Friday here so maybe Saturday or beginning of next week I can get to this.

The boot on it looks fine, no damage or wear. I can't say the same for it's strut boots. I will get new struts soon also.

How is it you're going from a wheel bearing to a CV joint? You've never described your symptoms. Wheel bearings make a rumble/roar/grinding noise. When driving, swing the steering wheel from side to side and the noise will change. The side you turned to that diminishes the noise - or the opposite side of the one that got louder - is usually the bad one. It doesn't matter that there's no play in it. With both wheels jacked up and the transmission in neutral, spin the wheel by hand as hard as you can. You can usually hear and feel the rumble. You can also feel the strut spring while spinning for vibration.

CV joints make a different noise. The outer goes click-click-click at six times the speed of the rotation of the wheel in a sharp turn. The inner goes clunk-clunk-clunk and/or vibrates when accelerating/power applied. The boot can still be intact.

When I got the Sienna, back in 2019, I refused to take it as it's passenger front had a bad wheel bearing. The dealer took it right in and replaced it. I know what a bad, really bad wheel bearing sounds like. I thought, after 5 years, it's drivers side front was finally failing. I did jack the van up and checked it out. That familiar clicking sound from the axle is where I am at now. It's tire hop of sorts and steering wheel wobble is what I have now. Drivers side. Only thing I am a shy worried about in changing it is axle nut torque as my friends wrench may not go high enough.He works mainly on all German cars and Germany has a different method of torque ing. It would still work.