I have a Malone MicrosportXT trailer with the aluminum wheels (I believe they are 12" 5.3 but would have to confirm). https://maloneautoracks.com/Mi...ngue.html#tab_upsell


Using the 7 year rule, while they have low mileage and have been garaged unless in use, they are almost due for replacement.

I checked the usual tire shops and I can't find any offerings for 12" tires; the lowest is 13" or 14".

I checked the Malone website and it looks like I can only buy the wheel and tire, not tire alone. I think this is what I would need: https://maloneautoracks.com/Si...ire.html#tab_details

Can I just buy something like this (14" wheel and 205/75/14 tire; current tire is 12" 5.3" (not sure what the profile is)? https://www.etrailer.com/Trail...ls/Kenda/KE93JR.html


The thinking is that the replacement cost is about the same this time. But next time, I can just go to the local tire store for a replacement tire and don't need to order new wheel and tire from Malone. Also, the tire size would be readily available in case of emergency (flat tire / puncture). Like this: https://www.tirerack.com/tires...=075NR4END&tab=Sizes


But if I replace the 5.30-12 wheel/tire with a ST205/75/14, is that going to be bad for the trailer? Different height an issue? What about offset - will it fit?

Should I just stick w/ the proprietary Malone 5.3-12? Or is it okay to go w/ the aftermarket 14"?

ETA: The trailer is used to two 2 kayaks. The wheels do go into the water.

As long as the hole pattern in the wheel is the same so it fits the hubs, you should be fine.

It'll probably ride a bit higher, but the only thing that should affect is needing a different hitch insert to make it ride level.

And really, that's not all that important, depending on what you're hauling.

Provided it doesn't rub the fenders, I see no harm and a good deal of benefit to run the larger wheel/tire. A 14-inch or even a 13 will turn roughly 30% slower than the 12s for a given road speed, for less wear on wheel bearings. I cringe when I see boats towed on 12s. Boat trailers have the additional factor of dunking the wheels in water to launch and retrieve the boat.

Tires with wheels: Link.

Tires: Link.

Another good place to shop is Etrailer. I've done business with them and recommend without reservation.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-...0~12-pc-12_Inch.aspx

As long as the bolt pattern fits and you have clearance in the wheel well I see no problem but etrailer is great for advice.

How can I figure out if the fenders will get rubbed or not by the 205/75/14? Seems like a good way to go if it fits.

Trapper - you found tires alone! I was looking on that site and couldn't find it. I guess my search skills aren't very good. There tires are probably would I would need but them I'd have to pay the local shop to install and balance ($25-45 / tire sound about right?).

So now the option to replace the tire seems to exist. Need to decide if I should go that route or still consider moving to the 14"

Okay - I'll try to take some rough measurements and see if the 205/75/14 will fit in the wheel well. The bolt pattern standard on the etrailer webpage will be useful - I'll measure "D" on the existing wheel.

Ya, I spend a lot of time and money on etrailer.com.

The tire you have is 22” in diameter while the one you are considering is 26” in diameter. That’ll mean you’ll have 2” less clearance between the tire and fender if you switch. You’ll have to take how much your springs compress as well to see if you have clearance.

Also didn't realize this but perhaps radial tires (14") are better suited for me than bias (12"). From eTrailer:

Radial ply tires are designed for trailers that are towed on the highway. The cords on a radial tire are positioned at a 90-degree angle to the direction of travel so that they lay across the width of the tire from wheel lip to wheel lip. This construction prevents the cords from rubbing against one another when the tire flexes, unlike the cords on a bias ply tire. As a result, radial tires have less rolling resistance and heat buildup, which leads to a longer tread life and improved steering at higher speeds.

Bias ply tires are designed for off-road or agricultural applications. They are built with thick, durable nylon cords that are positioned at a 30- to 45-degree angle to the direction of travel. The layers alternate in a crisscross pattern, making the sidewalls stiffer so that the entire tire is able to flex easily. As a result, the tire provides a smooth ride and improved handling when trailering on uneven surfaces.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
Ya, I spend a lot of time and money on etrailer.com.

The tire you have is 22” in diameter while the one you are considering is 26” in diameter. That’ll mean you’ll have 2” less clearance between the tire and fender if you switch. You’ll have to take how much your springs compress as well to see if you have clearance.

Thanks - I'll take some rough measurements. The kayaks I think are relatively light load (200lbs total?) aside from inherent trailer weight. And usually just on roads / beach so not bumpy. Worst case, just the occasional rub against the fender when hitting a large bump?

Perhaps the whole trailer will just jump up and down more than the leaf springs will get compressed?

I would think Malone sized the springs properly for the trailer and expected load.

As far as radial vs. bias: I wouldn’t worry about it. You aged the tires out before you wore them out and I’m assuming had no complaints. I have bias ply tires on six small boat trailers. Two of them, my double PWC trailers, have over 5,500 miles each on them without issue.

If it were my trailer, I’d just get the same tires it already has. In fact, I have three sets of tires coming as we speak because mine have aged out as well. I even bought a tire changer from Harbor Freight for $51 after a 20% off coupon to do it myself.

A 205/75-14 is going to be considerably taller than a 4.80 or 5.30-12. Another option might be 155-12 passenger tires.

I'm not savvy enough to assess the merits of various options. But I'm gathering that both options have pros/cons assuming both are viable (need to confirm fitment of the non-stock option).

The non-stock option is attractive to me primarily for emergencies - if I get a flat on a trip, it's likely that I can go to a local tire chain and the tire will be in stock or available w/in a day. The hesitation here is fitment unless there are other concerns I should consider.

There’s no way I’d retire tires at seven years. Maybe double that, but not seven. I have gone through hundreds of truck tires, and I have never retired one for being seven years old. In fact, I’m sitting under a 200,000lb load right now that we just moved with some tires older than ten.

Proper inflation, never having been run low, number of repairs, and not having been overloaded are far bigger concerns than age.

Then again, I don’t go to the dentist every six months either.

ETA: This doesn’t apply to steer tires. They are usually new or nearly new.

Is the 7 year rule out of date given modern rubber? The rule was established long ago when rubber tech was still not good?

I'm okay adhering to whatever the rule of thumb is. $300 is low compared to the damage a flat on the highway might cause to load, trailer, truck and/or others.