My son lives with my sister, as she lives close to where he works. His company sent him to Oxford for 3 weeks for a seminar on a new software. He is a computer engineer.

My sister drove his car to get it out of the street as the town was paving. She left on a light and it killed the battery. No big problem. Saturday, I took the 80 mile drive up, jumped the battery and drove the car to recharge the battery. I noticed the VSA and ABS lights on the dash on. I looked up in the Honda manual and it said could be caused by a dirty ABS sensor. His rear drivers rotor was clearly shot, I had changed the pair just a year ago. I decided the caliper was not working. I ordered new rotors, brakes, and calipers (Rock Auto kit).
Now the question. Would you think the sensor is dirty and needs cleaning as the brakes failed, or more likely a bad sensor? I have to drive up Wednesday night and bring the car home to do the work. I would rather do the job at home where I have all my tools instead of hoping I take everything I need with me and do the job up there.
I haven't told my son of his car problems, I would rather he enjoy the U.K. without worrying about his car.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rtquig,

If I recall correctly, the ABS sensor on the Honda is akin to a stroboscope but without the light (the lens picks up the lighter colored portion on the spinning mass area of the wheel).

If this is correct, I would try cleaning the lens of the sensor first. Then again, the failure could be a result of the shot rotor(s).

Also, if the rear rotors were changed two years ago and have already failed, a caliper (or both).

The Abs could have been triggered by the low voltage. There is probably no problem. You might just need to clear the code.

Is the check engine light on? When something sets off the CEL on some makes it will disable the abs and traction control. More info is needed to pinpoint the problem as throwing parts at it could get costly. Having the code read is a great start, i dont think your local auto parts stores have a scanner capable of pulling abs/traction control codes.

Thanks guys. The caliper was most likely the problem when I replaced the rotors and brakes last year. I priced them out by buying rotors and brakes and one caliper. After spending over 2 hours looking at different options, I decided that for the $20 more, the Rock Auto Kit was worth it for the 2nd caliper.

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:
If I recall correctly, the ABS sensor on the Honda is akin to a stroboscope but without the light (the lens picks up the lighter colored portion on the spinning mass area of the wheel).

If this is correct, I would try cleaning the lens of the sensor first. Then again, the failure could be a result of the shot rotor(s).

Also, if the rear rotors were changed two years ago and have already failed, a caliper (or both).

The sensor is a magnet which picks up a field from either a reluctor wheel or magnets built into the spinning mass of the wheel bearing. Honda likes to use the spinning mass in a wheel bearing type, make and model info would help alot too.

quote:

Originally posted by Jaywendland1981:
Is the check engine light on? When something sets off the CEL on some makes it will disable the abs and traction control. More info is needed to pinpoint the problem as throwing parts at it could get costly. Having the code read is a great start, i dont think your local auto parts stores have a scanner capable of pulling abs/traction control codes.

No check engine light on. My scanner is a cheap one and the Honda Civic is our only vehicle which I could never reset the codes with my OBDII scanner. I can bring the car to school with me on Friday if I'm finished and have the Auto Repair class flash the codes.

quote:

Originally posted by rtquig:
Thanks guys. The caliper was most likely the problem when I replaced the rotors and brakes last year. I priced them out by buying rotors and brakes and one caliper. After spending over 2 hours looking at different options, I decided that for the $20 more, the Rock Auto Kit was worth it for the 2nd caliper.

A locked up caliper may cause the light to come on but its unlikely, unless someone drove it at speeds above 10mph or so while dragging a locked up tire.

quote:

Originally posted by rtquig:

quote:

Originally posted by Jaywendland1981:
Is the check engine light on? When something sets off the CEL on some makes it will disable the abs and traction control. More info is needed to pinpoint the problem as throwing parts at it could get costly. Having the code read is a great start, i dont think your local auto parts stores have a scanner capable of pulling abs/traction control codes.

No check engine light on. My scanner is a cheap one and the Honda Civic is our only vehicle which I could never reset the codes with my OBDII scanner. I can bring the car to school with me on Friday if I'm finished and have the Auto Repair class flash the codes.

Email in profile, you're welcome to email me for further diagnostics as i might not check this thread friday.

Get the codes read for free at a local auto parts store.

Check the pins on the calibers. I've had then sick to the point the caliber wouldn't slide causing the pads to wear down extremely quickly.

I always pack as much grease as I can on the pins when I put them back in. Make sure to clean them up and check the rubber boots. If the boots are damaged water and dust can get in. Which will cause the calibers to stick.

A little over 3 weeks ago I noticed the rotor was chewed up compared to the other 3 which have worn nicely. My son had to leave and I planned to take the wheel off the next time he came home. When I drove it Saturday after jumping it, I could hear the brakes dragging in the rear as I was backing out of the driveway at my sisters.

quote:

Originally posted by Jaywendland1981:

quote:

Originally posted by rtquig:

quote:

Originally posted by Jaywendland1981:
Is the check engine light on? When something sets off the CEL on some makes it will disable the abs and traction control. More info is needed to pinpoint the problem as throwing parts at it could get costly. Having the code read is a great start, i dont think your local auto parts stores have a scanner capable of pulling abs/traction control codes.

No check engine light on. My scanner is a cheap one and the Honda Civic is our only vehicle which I could never reset the codes with my OBDII scanner. I can bring the car to school with me on Friday if I'm finished and have the Auto Repair class flash the codes.

Email in profile, you're welcome to email me for further diagnostics as i might not check this thread friday.

Thanks, if I can't clear the codes on Friday I will email you.

quote:

Originally posted by comet24:
Get the codes read for free at a local auto parts store.

Check the pins on the calibers. I've had then sick to the point the caliber wouldn't slide causing the pads to wear down extremely quickly.

I always pack as much grease as I can on the pins when I put them back in. Make sure to clean them up and check the rubber boots. If the boots are damaged water and dust can get in. Which will cause the calibers to stick.

I agree. I usually clean the pins and put grease on them and make sure the boots aren't torn or not properly seated.

A lot of cars will light the ABS light when the brakes are very worn.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
A lot of cars will light the ABS light when the brakes are very worn.

Really? Which ones?

Rt, to fully charge the battery it should be put on a charger. To fully charge a battery with the car running, it will take about 8 hours of driving. This is because the alternator is not charging all of the time. The computer controls when the alternator charges based on the voltage it is reading. Charging the battery for a short time with the engine is just putting on a surface charge.

The battery can very well be causing the lights to come on. For example, my fleet has a bunch of 2011 Ford Crown Vics in use. When the batteries are drained and when we jump start them, the fuel gauge will not work, fuel light will light, and other lights will illuminate. Charge the battery, and all is good again. Computers do not like low battery voltage and will do some weird things.

I'm with Shifferbrains

quote:

Computers do not like low battery voltage and will do some weird things.

That been my experience also.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
Rt, to fully charge the battery it should be put on a charger. To fully charge a battery with the car running, it will take about 8 hours of driving. This is because the alternator is not charging all of the time. The computer controls when the alternator charges based on the voltage it is reading. Charging the battery for a short time with the engine is just putting on a surface charge.

The battery can very well be causing the lights to come on. For example, my fleet has a bunch of 2011 Ford Crown Vics in use. When the batteries are drained and when we jump start them, the fuel gauge will not work, fuel light will light, and other lights will illuminate. Charge the battery, and all is good again. Computers do not like low battery voltage and will do some weird things.

When I can get it to my house I can put it on a charger. Typically, he drives to the train station 1 mile from his house. On weekends he drives down to us, somewhere around 80 miles one way. It hasn't been driven for over 2 weeks since he is away. I replaced the battery a year ago. With the Fluke tester, It was charging at 14.6 volts. Today, my sister took it out for an hour drive and on Wednesday I will bring it home.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
A lot of cars will light the ABS light when the brakes are very worn.

Yes brakemaster, do tell.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
The battery can very well be causing the lights to come on. For example, my fleet has a bunch of 2011 Ford Crown Vics in use. When the batteries are drained and when we jump start them, the fuel gauge will not work, fuel light will light, and other lights will illuminate. Charge the battery, and all is good again. Computers do not like low battery voltage and will do some weird things.

I was thinking in this direction as well. BMW motorcycle ABS is especially sensitive to this issue and will throw an ABS fault after a few minutes of idiling, even on a new battery. Tagged for the solution.