Well not the first but it has been 40+ years so it might as well be. I upgraded from a 2016 5.0 ltr. F150 to a pristine 2016 F250 with 60,000 miles. I'm pulling a trailer in the mountains of NC and I needed/wanted the extra power so I upgraded for the power curve.

So what do I watch out for in the area of maintenance ? What oil do you guys like, in all my previous vehicles I have always run full synthetic, is that practical or needed? I remember that my previous diesel truck used Rotella, is that still a good oil?

What about brand of diesel exhaust fluid? I got a pop up on the dash to refill it. What else am I missing?

Pick up the Prestone Blue DEF in the square 2.5 gallon jugs. Each one comes with a flexible spout in the box. Be careful how you pour it as DEF will crystallize when it dries and will ruin a wire harness quickly. If you buy a gallon jug you need a funnel and you need to make sure you rinse the funnel out before storing it in the truck. It makes a mess if you don’t.

Rotella T6 is fill synthetic and is the favorite with most diesel owners

I have a 21 year old F350 and a 2013 F 250 . We use Rotella and I agree with Blue Def in the box. Change your fuel filters as recommended to avoid problems. You can get MoCo filters at O'Reillys for about half what the others cost. I go to ExpressLube for service as they seem to know what they are doing. I avoid Ford dealerships for service for a variety of reasons but your experience may be different.

Remember to fill with diesel! Don't laugh, it happens! Any chance your, wife, girlfriend, brother, other acquaintance may drive and fill?
I carry spare fuel filter in case I pick up crud in fuel somewhere. You know the station tanks were just filled disturbing the bottom of the tank and crud is in suspension still. Use stations that have a lot of diesel fuel business to minimize bad fuel.
If a off road/red dyed diesel option is available stay away from that!!! Dye stays measurable almost forever and potentially expensive mistake if caught.

I have a ‘01 F250 7.3 with 67K miles. Your 6.7 is the modern day version of the tried and true million mile 7.3.

A Fumoto oil drain valve. Makes oil changes so much easier.
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/catalog.htm

Use above to take oil samples before or in between changes. You should do this at least once a year to makes sure all is well with internals of engine.

Been using Amsoil products throughout drive train. But recently for oil only I have gone to Rotella synthetic. Seems to be working just as well. Cost far less. As you can see I change oil more than I put miles on it.

Your oil fires the injectors and takes a beating compared to gas engines. It’s under extreme pressures. Oil is most vital in diesels.

Filter, filters, filters. Oil, trans, air and especially your fuel. And do them all at mileage intervals recommended by manufacturer.

Water in fuel will cause poor performance.

Dirty air filters will give black smoke and soot at tail pipes.

I use Ford (FoMoCo) oil and fuel filters. Most will agreee those are the best choice.

Oh, coolant also. Keep up with it. You can buy test strips to test it periodically making sure it’s still protecting. And if you really want protection replace it with the “waterless” kind.

Make sure your radiator cap is in proper working condition. Keeping proper pressure in system keeps it from over heating. A new cap is cheap insurance.

Keep up with those fluids and filters and your 6.7 will give you hundreds of thousands of care free miles.

Enjoy it.

quote:

Originally posted by walkinghorse:
Remember to fill with diesel! Don't laugh, it happens! Any chance your, wife, girlfriend, brother, other acquaintance may drive and fill?

My sister filled mine with gas. Fortunately she realized her mistake within a couple mile. No real damage, but still expensive.

Blue DEF if possible just get it at the truck island at about any truck stop its sold just like gas. Swipe your card and put in however much you want, no leaky ass shitbox 2.5gal jugs no funnel. DEF is VERY hard on copper brass and iron I would rather treat my wires with road salt than DEF.

Come late fall be very aware of temperature swings. Most importantly when traveling into northern states from southern states. Fuel is blended for lower temps up north. What's okay in central IA can leave you walking in central MN. In early fall make sure your fuel filters ( water filter primarily ) are changed out. Always carry a bottle of quality anti gel,( it takes three or four times as much to cure as it does to prevent gelling ) in the event you should find yourself with gelling issues.

If you are in the south you'll likely read all that and say I'll never need that. Until you do you are absolutely correct. Commercial drivers who really should know better sit alongside the road broke down every cold snap up here.

Your engine will never warm up to operating temperature idling, don't waste time and fuel wishing it were different. Light it give it a minute and go easy for a few miles. Block heaters use a LOT electricity, put it on a timer, an hour or so before you leave will suffice.

Rotella and Wix filters, bought online from whoever has the best deal.
I usually buy the oil filters by the dozen for free shipping.
Keep a few drain plug gaskets and change as needed.
I'm not familiar with Fords as I have a Dodge/Cummins but see if it has a water drain on the fuel filter housing. If so, drain it every few fill ups. Clean fuel is the key to a happy diesel.
Adding an auxiliary tank makes it easier to keep your hands from smelling like diesel fuel (fewer fill ups) and if you travel you can buy fuel in states with much lower prices.

Regular oil changes, Fuel filter changes... most diesels will run for a long time on just this mantra. I'll add that it doesn't hurt to change your fuel filters more frequently. Biocide treatment for you fuel tank on a scheduled interval as well. We found in our fleet that it was impossible to get consistently clean fuel on the road, and even with a single supplier at home base we would end up with intermittent contaminated fuel.

Look seriously at getting all of the EPA crap deleted.

Around these parts, the job runs around $2K, but better mileage, and not having to buy DEF, and paying for the inevitable other EPA compliance BS computer issues will pay for it over time.

More power too.

As was stated, keep up with clean fuel, air and oil.

quote:

Originally posted by Gustofer:
Look seriously at getting all of the EPA crap deleted.

Around these parts, the job runs around $2K, but better mileage, and not having to buy DEF, and paying for the inevitable other EPA compliance BS computer issues will pay for it over time.

More power too.

I'll second that. I live in Florida too so no inspections. I did my 14 Ram myself in my drive way.

Thanks for the input, I purchased the DEF recommended by kg5388, thanks again! Turns out it was on sale, $25 for 5 gallons. Filters are next including the K&N long life air filters. I have a buddy that swears by them.

It appears that I have forgotten all my marine engine days when I was on a sailboat. Filters were the life line to a happy life, including draining the water from them more frequently than I liked but it prevented a lot of problems.

I prefer the Mobil Delvac oil. Or, if you are going to run full synthetic, the Mobil esp. it is the factory oil for man diesels and others.

I think the most import thing you can do is put an additional inline fuel filter. In my 2002 Diesel I had a kit that had a very large CAT filter (2 microns) IIRC it was call a Nicktane from a guy in Kali. When I changed the filters I would cut them open and the CAT filter caught almost all of the contaminants, while the OEM still looked good. When I first bought the CAT filters from the dealer, the guys in the shop came out and checked it out. They never saw a pickup with a CAT filter.

I've been using Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 which I buy on amazon for $60 for 3 gallons shipped prime. Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters as well as Motorcraft super blades all purchased on amazon.

I believe fuel filters are replace every 22,500 miles. There's 2 of them. One in the engine bay on the right and one attached to the frame rail on the driver's side near the fuel fill. That one needs a 34mm socket to remove the housing. Look how to do it up on youtube.

That housing also has a drain that you should empty into a clear container periodically to check for water.

Tire should be 65 psi all around when you aren't loaded or towing. The door says 80 in the back on my F350, but that will wear the centers out quickly and it also rides like crap without a load.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
Rotella T6 does not meet Ford's spec for the 6.7 Powerstroke.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/fo...d-for-the-6-7-a.html

quote:

Originally posted by Gustofer:

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
Rotella T6 does not meet Ford's spec for the 6.7 Powerstroke.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/fo...d-for-the-6-7-a.html

My mistake. It didn't the last time I looked about 6 months ago. I'll edit my post.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

quote:

Originally posted by Gustofer:

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
Rotella T6 does not meet Ford's spec for the 6.7 Powerstroke.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/fo...d-for-the-6-7-a.html

My mistake. It didn't the last time I looked about 6 months ago. I'll edit my post.

I wasn't sure it did either. I was looking for a good synthetic to change to since I'm due for an oil change this week. I found that information and ordered some up from Amazon. Will be changing to it tomorrow. Hopefully I don't blow up my truck.

This thread is worthless without pics! Congrats on the new ride. Lots of great advice on here. The new engines are so much quieter its hard to believe. I hope you have the luxury of keeping it in a garage. The whole truck will look better longer for sure. And keeping the block and battery warm is a benefit too. Enjoy and let us know how she treats you.