Have to replace the transfer case motor. To get to the transfer case motor one needs to remove the front drive shaft.
I can't get the transfer case to even go into neutral.
I have the 4 bolts removed up front but the clamp at the rear to remove the shaft from the TC is up top.
I can't get the driveshaft to rotate to get to the clamp. Truck is on ramps.
any suggestions on rotating the driveshaft so I can get the clamp off?

It needed to be up on jack stands to start with. You can't do driveline work effectively unless the wheels, therefore the drive shaft, are free.

Try a floor jack to lift it and jack stands to support it instead of ramps. Transmission in neutral.

I type pretty slow on this ol wooden iphone.

All 4 wheels need to be off of the ground via jackstands or a lift so the wheels (and driveshafts) can be rotated, if the transfer case is stuck in 4WD.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
All 4 wheels need to be off of the ground via jackstands or a lift so the wheels (and driveshafts) can be rotated, if the transfer case is stuck in 4WD.

This. Even trans in neutral won't work because it is locked in 4wd so front and rear driveshafts are locked together.

What’s a “transfer case motor?”

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:
What’s a “transfer case motor?”

link

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:
What’s a “transfer case motor?”

A pain in the ass part for lazy folks that want to just push a button instead of having a shifter.

Well got the drive shaft out.
Now I can't get the transfer case motor to shift into 4w hi to match the pin on the transfer case.
nor can I turn the pin on the transfer case to neutral by hand.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:
What’s a “transfer case motor?”

A pain in the ass part for lazy folks that want to just push a button instead of having a shifter.

Thanks

GRRRRRRRRR.
Got the pin to rotate using a 15mm wrench. it would appear the Napa part made by Dorman I got is out of spec.
The plastic housing that is on the motor is gully up against the transfer case and won't fully seat.
The factory part fits but there is almost zero clearance.

Think I may just put a cap on the transfer case and run it in 2wd for a bit. Got pissed off fooling with it and who knows when I will I get another day to work on it.

Since I am Daddy Day care until this damn virus goes away it will likely be at least May if I am lucky.

When it rains it freaking pours, isn’t that what they say.

While under the truck I thought I smelled gas a bit. Started looking around sure enough where the lines that come down from the engine bay meet the lines that go to the tank nice leak there. No drip on the ground as it gets caught on the skid plate.

So I certainly don’t have time to cool with that and it must be done ASAP.
I have a cousin who is a mechanic so I’ll be farming this one and and just having him finish up the transfer case motor too.

You win some you lose some!

quote:

A pain in the ass part for lazy folks that want to just push a button instead of having a shifter

It’s why I love my 02 Grand Cherokee and 98 Taco.

Sorry for the pain. Grateful for my sort of old school rig.

Auto sales are down, dealers are motivated, the economy needs stimulating. Just throwing that out there, that's all.

quote:

Originally posted by sigspecops:
Auto sales are down, dealers are motivated, the economy needs stimulating. Just throwing that out there, that's all.

No need for a new truck. This truck was given to me by my grandfather. I’ll fix everything that needs to be fixed as it comes along.

One of my favorite parts of home auto repairs is that special moment when you think "holy shit I may have messed up or gotten in so deep I'm gonna have to be towed to someone to repair my repair!"

Which is usually followed by sorting it out.

Good luck!

While you are under there check the brake lines.They are prone to rust on the older trucks.

quote:

Originally posted by triggertreat:
While you are under there check the brake lines.They are prone to rust on the older trucks.

All were replaced last year.

Black - I had a similar problem on a 90 Something Ford Explorer. Took the shifter motor out and did some disassembly to the motor. It had froze up from not being used. My solution, once I got it going again, was to shift it into and out of 4WD more often, like every other month. After the Explorer I never got one with a shift motor again.

I figure as they make it more complex, “convenient” in their jargon, it just makes it more expensive to fix and something else to go wrong down the road.

I am really liking my 1967 BMW motorcycle. Speedometer and odometer. No other gages. No turn signals even. I can focus on the road without the distractions on the dash.

Finally was able to get the transfer case motor all mounted up. It was a beast to get to seat. Not sure what the deal was really. Just tried it a few more times and it went in.
Ordered the full stainless fuel line kit from linestogo.com and the nylon repair kit to the fuel pump.
Going to replace the pump too since the bed will be off and the pump is 20 years old.