I'm not sure how long it was going but it was a bit hot. I took it apart and found the check cable's flap had broken off and was stuck in the outlet pipe. So the water wasn't leaving the trough.

I installed a new check valve and it seems to work ok but the joint above the check valve leaks, I must not have got enough cement on it. Is there a quick and easy fix without cutting and replacing the joint? Or should I just?

As a side benefit I installed a check valve with rubber fernco connectors and let me tell you it's much quieter now. It used to be hard pipe the entire way and the pipe ran against the rafters. When it would switch on and off it would go "RUMBLE. RUMBLE, RUMBLE, BANG!", now it just goes "whirrrr, click". Nice. Had I known I would have isolated it with a rubber fitting long ago.

No easy fix without cutting and replacing the joint. Unless you can get that rubber section with the 2 hose clamps on it to join the 2 pieces, I'd feel comfortable using one of those on a sump pump as it's low pressure and not an endless supply of water. I would also buy a new sump pump as running it to get hot definately did some damage. Either to keep as a handy unit ready to install when the other fails, or just replace now.

Assuming the plumbing is PVC. I know of no way to "fix" a leaky joint.

You might try shutting down the pump, let the water drain out, blow the leaky joint out with some compressed air to dry it, and then try to get PVC cement to run down into the joint.

Good luck with it.

Yeah, I figured I'd have to cut it and rejoin. Bah!

I forgot what it's called, but there's tape you can buy that sticks to itself and works well to seal leaky joints. Have a piece wrapped around a formerly leaking section on the PVC trap under my bathroom sink and I planned to fix the joint when I had more time, but it's been on there for several years now and still no leaks. Think I found it at one of the big box stores.

I'm probably going to use some of that two-part epoxy stick and just smoosh it in there real heavy.

We use this on the ship. It's practically a permanent fix. I've never used it on PVC before, but I believe it'll work on it too.

I've never had luck with a bad PVC joint. Never had one myself, but trying to fix an existing one. They just don't re-glue. As for epoxy, hard to tell. There is so much flex, expansion, etc. Scuff the PVC up real well first.

The Oatey works well. If it is heating up, get it applied pronto. Three minutes after mixing it is starting to cure.

quote:

Originally posted by tsmccull:
I forgot what it's called, but there's tape you can buy that sticks to itself and works well to seal leaky joints. Have a piece wrapped around a formerly leaking section on the PVC trap under my bathroom sink and I planned to fix the joint when I had more time, but it's been on there for several years now and still no leaks. Think I found it at one of the big box stores.

But is your drain under pressure? My understanding is that the sump pump pipe is under pressure when the pump is running.

quote:

Originally posted by Elk Hunter:

quote:

Originally posted by tsmccull:
I forgot what it's called, but there's tape you can buy that sticks to itself and works well to seal leaky joints. Have a piece wrapped around a formerly leaking section on the PVC trap under my bathroom sink and I planned to fix the joint when I had more time, but it's been on there for several years now and still no leaks. Think I found it at one of the big box stores.

But is your drain under pressure? My understanding is that the sump pump pipe is under pressure when the pump is running.

Yes it will be under pressure when the pump is running, but generally not a lot of pressure 5-10 psi, it depends on the lift, length of run etc. But generally not a lot of PSI of pressure, less than 2lbs on some.

I'm just going to cut and do it correctly. It's above the check so there is water standing on the verticle leaky joint.

Doing it right is certainly the best long-term fix, but I checked and the stuff I used was Nashua Stretch and Seal self-fusing tape. Runs about $7 for a short roll at HD in my area.

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:
I'm just going to cut and do it correctly. It's above the check so there is water standing on the verticle leaky joint.

Probably the best idea because the water leaking from the joint will probably leak into the sump and then kick it on every once in a while and it will keep pumping the same water up the pipe to leak back into the sump then pump it back up into the same pipe.

Doing it right can be such a thankless job

Over the years, I've been amazed at the efforts people will go to when doing it wrong.

Does it make any sense that it stopped leaking?

Little bit of sediment got in there. Is your plan to lay in supplies and forget about it for now? Sure might be my approach.

Usually coming out of the check I'd run a straight shot up to an elle, then gravity to its discharge.