The rust battle continues but we’re almost to the end.
So far all brake lines, fuel lines, rockers, and cab corners have all been done.

Next on the list is the frame, lower control arms and rear end. I plan to use POR15 or Eastwood. My reading says a topcoat is a must for parts fully exposed to UV rays as it dulls the finish. I do not believe it has any ill effects on the protection.
I don’t want a super slick shiny frame and rear end any way so if the semi-gloss sheen fades a little my feelings won’t be hurt but being under the truck won’t get much UV.

Will be replacing upper control arms, sway bar endlinks, inner, and outer tire rods and she be pretty much good as new.

Have a plastic bed liner so that will likely go by the wayside for Line X.
Just put some wheels from a 2010 on her with some new rubber. Camper top is gone for a roll up tonneau.

Not bad for 20 years old.

My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

Before you spray anything make sure you get every bit of the wax they coat your frame with off. Nothing will stick to that. If it were mine I would try and power wash it while on a lift to get it as clean as possible. I have not used but have used quite a few of their products. I have heard excellent things about POR-15 for rusty surfaces. You should top coat. I would use Eastwood Chassis Black or 2K chassis Black.

On a side note, I spray down the whole underside of my truck once a year with and it keeps the rust down a lot even in the salty areas. I think it is Krown?? Not Kroil.

I'd paint over it as it will be fresh and clean after you use the POR and it's cured. I don't think it will hurt and you can use flat black.

It looks very good for 20 years. I have a 2000 2500 4WD for a work truck. Same color as yours. I was rear ended 10 yrs ago by a dumb shit with out insurance. It bent the frame extension just in front of the rear axle. My insurance co. totaled it and gave me a pretty good check. I bought it back from them and fixed the frame with junk yard parts. I then rolled/painted the "new" frame with roofing tar. It looked a lot like the undercoating that was there. 10 yrs later still no rust.

quote:

Originally posted by cusingeorge:
My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

By “my product” you have something to do with the company I presume. I am happy and would prefer to use products offered by members here.
This your stuff?
https://www.zero-rust.com/

quote:

Originally posted by cruiser68:
Before you spray anything make sure you get every bit of the wax they coat your frame with off. Nothing will stick to that. If it were mine I would try and power wash it while on a lift to get it as clean as possible. I have not used but have used quite a few of their products. I have heard excellent things about POR-15 for rusty surfaces. You should top coat. I would use Eastwood Chassis Black or 2K chassis Black.

On a side note, I spray down the whole underside of my truck once a year with and it keeps the rust down a lot even in the salty areas. I think it is Krown?? Not Kroil.

Most certainly. This will be a bed off, needle scaler, metal prep, and cleaning process.

I wish we had a Krown place closer. At $150 per professional application it’s a good deal. Unfortunately the closest to me is 2.5 hours away. So taking 3 vehicles there each call is not worth it.
This year I’ll be buying the wool wax kit and doing them myself. This rust battle has taught me that it needs to be done.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by cusingeorge:
My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

By “my product” you have something to do with the company I presume. I am happy and would prefer to use products offered by members here.
This your stuff?
https://www.zero-rust.com/



That site is one of the online retailers on the NW side of Atlanta, my site is www.usezerorust.com.

I am one of the "employee-owners" for the company that owns the brand (and I do the technical service for the entire company), I can tell you ours holds up to salt spray for over 2000 hours, and seems to perform well on a host of projects. POR15 is a good product, and would serve you well also.

A lot of the guys up here in New England use gear oil cut with kerosene to make it less viscous and able to be shot from a spray gun. The heavy oil creates a barrier and gets into all nooks and crannies. Having lived in the rust belt for damn near 40 years, its the best option I've seen.

I have used POR-15 on several vehicles with great results. They have a rubberized undercoating spray as well that is great for trucks. I would highly recommend any of their products, but follow all the instructions closely.

quote:

Originally posted by cusingeorge:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by cusingeorge:
My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

By “my product” you have something to do with the company I presume. I am happy and would prefer to use products offered by members here.
This your stuff?
https://www.zero-rust.com/



That site is one of the online retailers on the NW side of Atlanta, my site is www.usezerorust.com.

I am one of the "employee-owners" for the company that owns the brand (and I do the technical service for the entire company), I can tell you ours holds up to salt spray for over 2000 hours, and seems to perform well on a host of projects. POR15 is a good product, and would serve you well also.

I like to patronize Sigforum folks when I can or know we have someone in the industry.

So I will give your ZeroRust a shot over POR15. I am not seeing a way to purchase online from the second link you gave.
Just finding a zipcode retailer search. The closest retailer is 60 miles away which is not a huge deal as I pass it on the way to my cabin so I can grab it next time I go down there.

If I buy a gallon and only use a portion of it how long is it good for after being resealed?

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by cusingeorge:
My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

By “my product” you have something to do with the company I presume. I am happy and would prefer to use products offered by members here.
This your stuff?
https://www.zero-rust.com/

quote:

Originally posted by cruiser68:
Before you spray anything make sure you get every bit of the wax they coat your frame with off. Nothing will stick to that. If it were mine I would try and power wash it while on a lift to get it as clean as possible. I have not used but have used quite a few of their products. I have heard excellent things about POR-15 for rusty surfaces. You should top coat. I would use Eastwood Chassis Black or 2K chassis Black.

On a side note, I spray down the whole underside of my truck once a year with and it keeps the rust down a lot even in the salty areas. I think it is Krown?? Not Kroil.

Most certainly. This will be a bed off, needle scaler, metal prep, and cleaning process.

I wish we had a Krown place closer. At $150 per professional application it’s a good deal. Unfortunately the closest to me is 2.5 hours away. So taking 3 vehicles there each call is not worth it.
This year I’ll be buying the wool wax kit and doing them myself. This rust battle has taught me that it needs to be done.

I bought a case of Krown aerosol cans. I use about 2-3 cans to spray the entire underside each year.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by cusingeorge:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by cusingeorge:
My product, Zero Rust, is a lot like POR15, and we tell folks you can paint over, but you don’t have to. It develops a bit of a gray tone when exposed to uv radiation, as is the nature of the resin system, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I’m sure the guys at POR15 will say something similar.

By “my product” you have something to do with the company I presume. I am happy and would prefer to use products offered by members here.
This your stuff?
https://www.zero-rust.com/



That site is one of the online retailers on the NW side of Atlanta, my site is www.usezerorust.com.

I am one of the "employee-owners" for the company that owns the brand (and I do the technical service for the entire company), I can tell you ours holds up to salt spray for over 2000 hours, and seems to perform well on a host of projects. POR15 is a good product, and would serve you well also.

I like to patronize Sigforum folks when I can or know we have someone in the industry.

So I will give your ZeroRust a shot over POR15. I am not seeing a way to purchase online from the second link you gave.
Just finding a zipcode retailer search. The closest retailer is 60 miles away which is not a huge deal as I pass it on the way to my cabin so I can grab it next time I go down there.

If I buy a gallon and only use a portion of it how long is it good for after being resealed?

That depends on the head space in the container but generally it’ll be fine for a year or so. A can of an inert gas, like “Bloxygen”, will make any partially used can of paint or stain last much longer.