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I'd rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I am not |
I don't even try to fix it or use chemicals. Call roto rooter and be done with it | |||
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
Drano makes a product for this. Pour in, let it sit for the specified time, flush with water. You may need to repeat if it's flowing but slow. The second time flush with hot water first. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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I called them once and they charged me $175 for about 10 minutes of work. That is when I decided that I wasn’t charging enough in my tree service business. I raised my rates about 25% with no resulting decrease in business. | |||
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A teetotaling beer aficionado ![]() |
As a good measure, also check the drain vent. The pipe that usually vents to your roof which allows air in and relieves the vacuum created when water drains. If this is clogged with leaves or a dead squirrel your drain will be very slow. Men fight for liberty and win it with hard knocks. Their children, brought up easy, let it slip away again, poor fools. And their grandchildren are once more slaves. -D.H. Lawrence | |||
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Never Go Full Retard ![]() |
Unfortunately I had to resort to chemicals on my last clog. It was a shower drain where the only option to access the trap was to cut open the ceiling in the great room below. If Urgent Clear had not worked, I would have taken one of these options before cutting open the ceiling ...
They don't think it be like it is, but it do. | |||
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Member![]() |
Techguy; If the water is backing from one sink to the other, like you stated, the clog is back into the wall. Most side by side vanity drains have individual drains going into the wall. The drain usually goes into a double T or Y branch and the drain goes down and a vent goes up. The vent usually ties into the main vent from the toilet in the attic and forcing air or water into the drain will result in the water or air going up the vent and into the main vent and right down the drain. Using forced water with a drain king or blow bag will usually result in a big mess. The water you force up the vent will come back out as soon as you take the water pressure off. Using a snake is the way to approach this type of clog. It can be very tricky. Usually the snake will cross from one sink drain right across into the other drain. I have special swivel heads for my drain snakes that will drop into the drain at the T, but MANY times it is an aggravating and DIRTY process. Many times it takes a "FEEL" to know when you are at the T and if the snake head is going down or sometimes even up the vent. I know most think we plumbers charge too much money, but I do drain cleaning every day and side by side sinks can be a nightmare. I have already had to pull a mirror off the wall and cut a hole into the vent to get the snake to drop, or go into the attic and cut the vent and go down the vent. What I am saying is, you will spend a lot of time and aggravation trying to do this yourself. Call a professional. Roto Rooter are usually the highest priced drain cleaners. Find an independent guy who does not advertise. Word of mouth, referrals from friends or co=workers who have been happy with someone. Good luck NRA Life member NRA Certified Instructor "Our duty is to serve the mission, and if we're not doing that, then we have no right to call what we do service" Marcus Luttrell | |||
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Nosce te ipsum![]() |
Time for Twister with the wife. You'll be close, so brush yer teeth first ![]() Fill up both sinks with a couple inches of water. You use one plunger on one sink, close and hold shut the pop-up on the other. Have wet rags stuffed and held into the overflow holes. Plunge away, one handed. Thy obstruction will clear. Chemicals? We don't need no stinkin' chemicals! | |||
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Tinker Sailor Soldier Pie![]() |
I shouldn't say never. As a last resort, particularly for something like a shower drain, I'd use chemicals before cutting out drywall. I also wouldn't discourage someone from using something like draino as a maintenance tool. But once there is a clog, I'll tackle it first hands-on with either the zip-it tool or removing accessible plumbing. ~Alan Acta Non Verba NRA Life Member (Patron) God, Family, Guns, Country Men will fight and die to protect women... because women protect everything else. ~Andrew Klavan | |||
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Little ray of sunshine ![]() |
Those work great for clogs that are mostly hair. Just taking the trap out works, too, but is a little more work. The fish is mute, expressionless. The fish doesn't think because the fish knows everything. | |||
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Member![]() |
I have three women with long hair and they work great. ******************** “When the law disarms good guys, bad guys rejoice.” ― Ted Nugent | |||
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Go Vols!![]() |
Those medical waste basin/foot tub things are your friend. Grab a few cheep ones if you start taking things apart to use as catch pans. | |||
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Member |
I sometimes use a garden hose stretched in from the garage with a shut-off valve on the end. My lovely wife pushes down on one stopper with a wet towel and I insert the hose in the other drain with a small wet towel wrapped around it then I turn on the valve. I can't remember any time this didn't work. It also doesn't ever make a mess. The shutoff valve is important to adequately control the water. | |||
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Age Quod Agis![]() |
Dynamite? "I vowed to myself to fight against evil more completely and more wholeheartedly than I ever did before. . . . That’s the only way to pay back part of that vast debt, to live up to and try to fulfill that tremendous obligation." Alfred Hornik, Sunday, December 2, 1945 to his family, on his continuing duty to others for surviving WW II. | |||
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paradox in a box![]() |
Maybe I missed it but did no one suggest buying a snake and snaking it out? I can’t imagine removing a trap and dealing with the water or adding chemicals. A snake isn’t too expensive and is a great tool to own. These go to eleven. | |||
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Never Go Full Retard ![]() |
Which flavor of snake? Recommendations so far lean to the "Zip-It Bath and Sink Hair Snare" at 20 in. long, with 18 in. of barbed length per Home Despot. They don't think it be like it is, but it do. | |||
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paradox in a box![]() |
I was thinking something like this. Available at Home Depot. I've used one for sinks, toilets, etc. https://www.amazon.com/General...keywords=drain+snake These go to eleven. | |||
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always with a hat or sunscreen![]() |
This has been the "go to" for years after a pro recommended the stuff. ![]() Certifiable member of the gun toting, septuagenarian, bucket list workin', crazed retiree, bald is beautiful club! USN (RET), COTEP #192 | |||
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paradox in a box![]() |
Chemicals in general are bad. I'd say use them as a last resort but then if that's the last resort they won't likely work. If you use them first and they don't work then you have a drain pipe filled with chemical that will likely burn you when you open the trap. If the first chemical doesn't work and you try another you may create really toxic fumes and a dangerous situation. Apart from all that they can wreak havoc on your pipes depending on material compatibility. Snake that puppy out. ![]() These go to eleven. | |||
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Where there's smoke, there's fire!! ![]() |
I’ve tried the Zip-It on both sinks, nothing comes up. I’m going to snake it I reckon. I agree with rexles, I think it’s farther down than a p trap since both are backing up. | |||
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Member |
I do the zip it thing about once a month. Just preventative maintenance. End of Earth: 2 Miles Upper Peninsula: 4 Miles | |||
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