quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
How many R8s did you get? You got a nice mill package all around.

I got eight R8s (one is in the machine) with a keyless chuck. Other stuff, too.

I'm feeling that I definitely got my money's worth.







Anyone know what those round, black plates are on the left side of the left photo? (under the serrated cutter)

Best way I've found to remove the table is to get an appropriate height table or platform that will allow you to slide it right off onto it (tuning height with the knee)

Remove lead screw and bearing plates/handles, adjusting screw and gib first of course.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:
Best way I've found to remove the table is to get an appropriate height table or platform that will allow you to slide it right off onto it (tuning height with the knee)

Remove lead screw and bearing plates/handles, adjusting screw and gib first of course.

With this forum combined with my fancy book with pictures, it's going to be alright!

I'm going to need an engine hoist to get the knee off. At least I now have a Harbor Freight 10 min away.

Great score! Years ago I worked as a machine tool serviceman, including working for the Bridgeport dealer. They are a great machine, esp. with a DRO on it.

You can install aprons over the ways, they keep the ways very clean. The aprons fold out, with pleats.

Not sure about the black plates but you did good. A boring head, fly cutters and even a Tapmatic. Say, keep a couple fine India stones on hand for any chips that may seat in vise bases or table. Also, if at work you see a big container if Starrett M1, snag a quart. M1 is a very nice and clean way to protect all bare metal surfaces against rust and humidity, rotary table and deviding head and, vises included.

Great find! Looks nice.

Tram it damn it..right to zero. Good luck with your new toy.

The black plates are probably index plates for the indexer.

That tapmatic mentioned is probably a good $300-400 on the used market.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
Tram it damn it..right to zero. Good luck with your new toy.

Of course! I need to adjust the leveling feet, too. It has a bit of a wobble from the move. Tramming it will be first on the list once I have it clean and back together.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:
The black plates are probably index plates for the indexer.

That tapmatic mentioned is probably a good $300-400 on the used market.

That's what I was thinking, but they are much smaller than the indexer, and I thought those kinds of plates have LOTS of holes.

I've never used a Tapmatic, so I'll have to look into that on YouTube.

EDIT: Just watched a Tapmatic video. WHAT IS THIS MAGIC??

The Tapmatic is really best used for production work where you might have many parts with the same hole to be tapped. Once set up and adjusted properly, it is worth its weight in gold. Generally not good for heavy tapping or corse threads. Smaller tapping and lube tap as you work.

Best I can tell from the photos, it looks like it has a power draw bar. Am I correct?

It’s just a plain draw bar. I just whipped out a 3/4” combo wrench and installed a collet.

The disassembly and cleaning has commenced! Some of this grease is the consistency of clay. I've gone through quite a bit of paper towels and Q-tips. I was trying to figure out ways to speed this up, especially with the larger parts like the screws.

What about calling around to the local machine/auto shops to see if they have large degreasing tanks? Getting this crud off the Acme threads will take some time unless I can come up with something. If anyone knows of some magic solvents, that would be great, too.

I'm used to degreasing gun parts and stove tops, not this kind of stuff. It's been fun blasting the grease out of the oil channels with compressed air. Then I go in with Q-tips and pipe cleaners.

If you dont want to buy a parts washer, Harbor Freight, you can buy the Crown brand of washer fluid. A large plastic pan would allow you to do the small parts. The old chems for parts washers was dangerous. You'll do well to pick up a tapered brush used in parts washers. The large main castings can be cleaned where they stand with sheet plastic below a bunch of absorbant rag. Collect the whole mess after and deposit it in the garbage. Only other fluid I have in mind is gasolene.

I'd get 5 gallons of mineral spirits (more than you need but cheaper than buying multiple 1gal cans) and some pvc pipe and caps. Soak the leadscrews in the sealed pvc pipe filled with the solvent.

Hopefully a good soak will make the hardened grease easy to brush away.

quote:

Anyone know what those round, black plates are on the left side of the left photo? (under the serrated cutter)

The plates are spacer plates for your indexing head, a valuable feature. The back comes off when stood vertically, usually with a large retainer spring wire. The plates are a convenient way to space the head in common numbers. The worm-drive crank is disengaged by a lever & the other lever is retracted to allow the head to spin freely, manually & it then snaps back into place in the notches on the OD of the chosen plate. It's very handy for common spacing. There would normally be a few of these plates. It looks like you've got three. Probably a twelve notch, a ten notch, and an eight notch, which covers 12, 10, 8, 6, 5, 4, 3, and 2. Some heads have individual plates for each spacing, some only have the multiple notched plates. Let me know if you need more info.

ETA these are not the multi-holed sector plates commonly associated with indexing sub-divisions other than those numbers described above.

^^^ Nice! Thanks.

I'm going to try the PVC pipe idea, since I have a nice length of 1.5" SCH40. PVC holds up to mineral spirits, but I'll have to check on the other parts cleaning solutions before trying them out.

Good ideas!

Well, that worked better than I could have imagined. That old grease was STICKY. This was from a 2hr soak in Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser. I rinsed it off in the utility sink, dried, then sprayed it down with WD-40. Overall, I'd say it got 98% of the junk off.

Nice. I use the PVC trick for long items in evaporust as well.

Make sure you get some way oil if you haven't already to keep rust at bay on those shiny new lead screws.

UPDATE:

I've made significant progress. I completely finished the teardown/rebuild of the base. The newly lubed (with way oil!) screws run great. I'm now neck deep in the quill housing.

The power quill downfeed wasn't functioning; I found out why! Parts are on order and this thing should be 100% within a couple of weeks. I"m guessing someone tried to drill a large hole with it. It was NOT designed to handle a lot of down force- small holes or boring only!

I'm pretty happy with this thing, overall. It is cleaning up up very nicely and the inside (gears, bearings, shafts) is nearly all in pristine condition!