quote:

Originally posted by 41:
You will regret putting the post in concrete. One of the biggest deterrents to the life of the post is ants. They will eat even pressure treated lumber with no ill effects.

Are you going to use a wire fence or plastic?

Using 2"X3" 6' welded wire, and I have no choice but to put them in concrete. If you saw my ground you'd understand. It's about 30% infertile dirt and 70% rock. I was able to auger out the holes when the ground was wet, but there is no way to otherwise secure a post in the ground besides concrete. Trying to use a tamping bar and beating on rocks accomplishes nothing but knocking fillings loose.

They make a 1x2 welded wire that is four feet tall which will keep out squirrels, groundhogs, etc. Next you add the plastic fencing to take it up to 7 feet.

I used two feet chicken wire as backing to the 7 foot deer fence but it wasn't sufficient and over time the chicken wire rusted out and raccoons just dug under the fence. Raccoons only need one night and they can wipe out half a garden.

If you ever have to replace a post, concrete will require that you move that post away from the original hole.

I once knew a homebuilder who would straighten warped 2x4's in a framed-up wall before inspection. He had his carpenter kerf the concave side with a skill saw and then pound in a wedge. It worked, but he was only concerned about warpage in the width direction and not the thickness direction.

Don't think you can do much other than replace,I have a wood fence s around my house and gardens,damn 4X4 warp in and out all the time,has been in place for 20/30 years.
Had to replace three rotted post this spring.
I like your raised bed construction,going to do some in my yard also.

I have built many pole buildings on the ranch and this is a common problem with pressure treated poles. I have had 6x6's and even 8x8's bend several inches and throw the building out of square at the top girder. Of course it always happens after the concrete dries.

If it's not too far out you can usually compensate with shims or cuts.

If you have to straighten things out this will work:

I have straightened 8x8's and 6x6's by cutting it off a few fee below the bend, then patching in a new straight piece using a half lap scarf joint. Once you get both ends of the scarf joint cut right, assemble and hold it together temporarily with wood screws while you drill 1/2 inch holes through the two pieces you are fastening together. This helps to assure the pieces line up right when you put the bolts in later. Take the joint apart and butter both halves up with Gorilla Glue, reassemble the joint and bolt together with 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts with fender washers and nuts. If you want some added structure you can scab on a 2x4 on both sides of the pole and bolt it all together like a sandwich. The glue and bolts will make the joint stronger than the original pole.

I always pick out the lumber by looking at the end grain to make sure it is in the center of the growth rings.

I've used cables and such to pull them in the direction I need them to be - and then nail/screw on some additional cross pieces to keep them in place after I've pulled them straight.

Just depends on whether you have enough other places you can pull from and attach to...

How high do you have to make the sides to be sure something isn't able to jump in and eat everything?

quote:

Originally posted by HayesGreener:
I have straightened 8x8's and 6x6's by cutting it off a few fee below the bend, then patching in a new straight piece using a half lap scarf joint. Once you get both ends of the scarf joint cut right, assemble and hold it together temporarily with wood screws while you drill 1/2 inch holes through the two pieces you are fastening together. This helps to assure the pieces line up right when you put the bolts in later. Take the joint apart and butter both halves up with Gorilla Glue, reassemble the joint and bolt together with 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts with fender washers and nuts. If you want some added structure you can scab on a 2x4 on both sides of the pole and bolt it all together like a sandwich. The glue and bolts will make the joint stronger than the original pole.

I think it'll be easier to fire up the backhoe, dig it out, and replace it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

quote:

How high do you have to make the sides to be sure something isn't able to jump in and eat everything?

Depends. If they can see the other side? Minimum 7 ft. If they can't? Much shorter. Deer won't jump into something they can't see.

quote:

Originally posted by 45 Cal: I like your raised bed construction,going to do some in my yard also.

Thanks. I think they are going to work out well. They are kind of a pain in the keester to build on a slope like I have though and them 12' 2X10s are damn heavy.

How are you going to irrigate those raised beds?

quote:

Originally posted by deepocean:
How are you going to irrigate those raised beds?

Drip irrigation. Very effective, very efficient, and it'll keep the untreated wood from getting soaked and rotting out too quickly.

Viagra might make it straight again.