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Going with open shelving in my kitchen and opted for teak butcher block to make the shelves out of. Sunlight and weather aren't a concern, other than the occasional wet glass/plate being placed on them. Lots of info out there as to oil and sealers. I'm leaning towards sealing them, but am open to hear from those that have messed with teak before. Low maintenance is the goal. | ||
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| Partial dichotomy |
I'm looking forward to hearing answers. I do know teak is used extensively on ships and boats and that it contains it's own oils to self-preserve. My guess is not to seal it, but I'm not sure. SIGforum: For all your needs! Imagine our influence if every gun owner in America was an NRA member! Click the box>>>  | |||
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Member |
We have had Danish Teak dinning and end tables in my family for 35 years. They were only finished with oil and have occasionally been re-oiled once or twice a year. We were told by our Dane salesman no need to use coasters for drinks because of the nature of teak so we never have. Here in the Southwest we had evaporation coolers until a few years ago and glasses would sweat like crazy and wipe up when glass was empty with no damage. Hope that helps. | |||
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I work with teak weekly in my business. If low maintenance is your goal. Go with a marine synthetic Eurethane. Awl-wood is a very good choice. Sykkens cetol marine is also a good choice. A couple of coats of either and depending on what look you're going for, I like the natural teak color. Watco makes a satin Eurethane that is good too. You can oil them, but it doesn't last. It's easy to apply though, wipe it on with a rag. Problem is oiled teak will show afterwards if you leave a wet glass on it for example. | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
If you aren't going to cut on them use General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish If they are going to be used as true cutting boards then look at a cutting board sealer or oil or nothing at all. | |||
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I use "Pure Tung Oil" I get from Rockler for the teak slats on the seats in the cockpit of the boat. Teak absorbs the Tung oil. Some go to elaborate trouble to seal and finish and that sort of thing but I have found the Tung oil to be less trouble to start with and less trouble to maintain. For my teak Cesar salad bowls, I use vegetable oil to treat them. I think it's www.rockler.com Place your clothes and weapons where you can find them in the dark. “If in winning a race, you lose the respect of your fellow competitors, then you have won nothing” - Paul Elvstrom "The Great Dane" 1928 - 2016 | |||
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| Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more  |
Reading is fundamental, people. OP is going to use teak, butcher block style, as cabinet shelving. my 2 cents on the matter: tung oil and install. If you don't care for how they look after 6mo or a year, it's a relatively simple matter to refinish with a satin or flat marine urethane product, as Jimmy suggests. It's teak, after all. A little water from a wet dish isn't going to cause more than a stain at worst. Easily sanded out. I'd be more concerned with the weight of the shelves, and how they are fastened/supported inside the cabinets. suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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Tung oiled teak will show water spots, from the OP stating he may put wet glasses on the shelves. A few coats of the Eurethane I mentioned and it's done permanently. I can't for the life of my understand why someone is using teak for cabinet shelves unless they're visible, because teak is super expensive. | |||
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| Partial dichotomy |
He said "Going with open shelving in my kitchen" I assume that means exposed and visible. SIGforum: For all your needs! Imagine our influence if every gun owner in America was an NRA member! Click the box>>> | |||
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Altitude Minimum |
Teak is beautiful, no doubt. That having been said, I’m glad I don’t have any to maintain on my boss’s boats. Been there, done that and was damn good at varnishing. No more. If you oil the shelves then want to seal them later they will need to be cleaned, sanded and prepped properly for adhesion. | |||
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| Member |
Bit more info, yes they are visible - open shelving, no cabinets for the uppers. The two biggest are 8' long x 12.5" deep x 1.5" thick. They are supported by 3/8" steel brackets that are recessed into the wall studs with drywall over them, the shelves themselves I took a router to and took out 3/8" of an inch so that they sit down on the brackets and you can't see them, floating shelves appearance. I then put 2 5/16" bolts through each bracket with washers and nuts to secure. The brackets are originally made for granite/quartz counter tops for overhanging islands and what not. These things are beyond stout, the shelves do not move. I'm looking for a matte finish that will bring out the colors of the teak. If having to oil a couple of times a year is the best option, then so be it. But if there's a good Eurethane that will give me the look I'm after then I'm for it. I'll have some leftovers and can test my options, but some of these things get pricey. | |||
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Yes, go with a good satin Eurethane clear. That is what is used on all of the yacht interiors and it truly is maintenance free IF you don't abuse it. "Watco 1 Qt. Satin Wipe-On Polyurethane provides the protection of a polyurethane finish in a formula that is hand-applied and wiped onto wood. Wipe on surfaces to get into areas that are difficult to reach with traditional brush-on polyurethane." | |||
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Started with this...  After a nervous cut with the skill saw  Where they're at now, ignore everything below them, it's all coming out.  | |||
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Thanks, I'll do some research on this. How satin is the satin? Is there any gloss to it in your experience? | |||
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Very little if any gloss. | |||
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TeaK and low maintenance typically do not go hand in hand That said... I’ve had wonderful results with the Epiphanes Matte finish varnish. Not cheap, is somewhat Labor intensive, but will give a very durable rich appearance finish This is the gunwale I rebuilt out of Sapele  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Live today as if it may be your last and learn today as if you will live forever | |||
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I have/use bamboo cutting boards. I wipe them down with food grade mineral oil. They are app. 14 yrs old and look good. "All warfare is based on deception" Sun Tzu, The art of War | |||
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Ah... this is the look I'm after. Appears to be very little to no sheen, is that the case in person? I was aware that teak isn't the lowest of maintenance, but the colors it offers and the uniqueness kept drawing me in. Will certainly research this product. *** edit *** just caught the sapele, have you used Epiphanes on teak before? | |||
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It is a very low luster  I have used it on teak. Gives a very similar finish. Sapele is known as a “poor mans teak”. It’s part of the mahogany tree family Process for high UV resistance (that I need for the boat) entails using the a thinner, high gloss, matte finish  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Live today as if it may be your last and learn today as if you will live forever | |||
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