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Seeker of Clarity |
So I assume I have a failing CV joint. Are we able to tell by the nature of it only occurring in a Right-Hand turn, whether it is the right one or the left? It seems to be from the rear only. Or do I just need to bite the bullet and have them do both? 6 year old XV Crosstrek with 50k miles. Thanks all!  | ||
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Member |
Are the boots ripped/damaged? That's too dam early for a CV-joint fail. "No matter where you go - there you are" | |||
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Go Vols! |
Are you talking about having the wheel fully locked right? Does it stop if you let off just a little? | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
No, Doesn't have to be fully locked. Just a pretty steep turn. No torn boots apparently as it just passed inspection. The mechanic wasn't thinking CV (because my brakes were way shot). He thought maybe the brakes. But it seems very rotational. So I'm thinking CV. | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm.  |
Are you sure it's the rear? This is usually associated with a front axle. The outer joint on a front axle is subject to constant bending and flexing as you steer. Rear wheels don't steer, so the joints always rotate along the same axis or plane. Noises can do tricky things. Usually, but not always, a bad CV joint is accompanied by a torn boot. | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
I guess this explains why the guy thought it wasn't a CV joint. Sure seems like it is from the rear. Anything related to the AWD that comes to mind? | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
If it happens when turning, not when driving straight, is in fact from the rear and is not a CV joint, a rear differential is possible. Differential-related noises, however, are more of a growl, grind or clunk rather than a click. | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
Are the clicks slow with a slight pause in between them, or rapid click-click-click? Typical outer CV joint:  (Inner joints are made different. They have to "plunge" in and out as the drive shaft must change length as the suspension moves.) If it is bad, the clicking will be at a frequency six times the speed of the wheel. | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
I'll do a test shortly. I think it is once per rotation. | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
Only noticeable at low speeds? Possible it occurs at higher speeds? | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
Just did the "how many clicks per rotation" test with my wife outside and... It's the front right. doh! | |||
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| Member |
I always did both when I had my CV joints replaced. It was a Honda Accord. Mechanic said it was a matter of time until the other failed and there would be a savings by doing both at once. Yours may be different. It is early for those to fail and to not detect a torn boot. | |||
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Member |
I've done that job before. Lots of fun.  | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
Guessing a grand a side for OEM. Half that for aftermarket...? | |||
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| Member |
Under $200 for all parts. If you can DIY, it should be pretty cheap. | |||
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| Jack of All Trades, Master of Nothing  |
Did you actually expect a Subaru to be able to turn hard right?  My daughter can deflate your daughter's soccer ball. | |||
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| Seeker of Clarity |
Well played.  | |||
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| Member |
Pretty common failure. Have a 36mm socket (chevy/oldsmobile) for just the occasion. | |||
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| Member |
The first thing I would check if its in the rear is the backing plates. They are made of tin and rust corrode and then warp and hit something in certain parts of the load cycle. A failing cv joint in the rear does not usually respond to turning in a certain way. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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| Bunch of savages in this town  |
Have you had the front and rear differential fluid replaced? It’s recommended at 30,000 miles. My 2009 Legacy was doing something similar at 50k. You need to understand how the Subaru AWD system works, but when the diff oil breaks down over time, it can create issues like what you mentioned. ----------------- I apologize now... | |||
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