Raining here and I spin out at every red light, tail fished on a 130 degree turn, and that ain’t even in ice or snow.

Do tires perform differently on a 1-ton?

Thinking fallen wild peak AT3 or AT4

Short answer: yes.
If nothing is in the bed, all your weight is up front. It’s like throwing a hammer.
I have a 2012 F250. 4dr, long bed, 4wd. It performs best with about 200 lbs right against the tailgate.

I've had great service with
Finnish Nokiens on 1/2 & 3/4 ton
pick ups hete in PNW
as well as running
a blizzard from Nebraska
to Idaho.

I have the Falken Wildpeak AT3’s on our 2003 4Runner (2nd set) and 2017 Suburban, and am very happy with them on both vehicles.

Good handling in the snow and slush, and decent enough handling and grip on wet roads.

In comparison to the legendary Goodyear Wrangler DuraTracs that I had on the 4Runner, the Falken’s are almost every bit as good in the snow and winter driving, better on wet roads, a little bit quieter when new and a lot quieter with some mileage wear, lasted longer and less expensive.

If winter performance is not critical for you, the Michelin Defender LTX M/S may be worth taking a look at.

Good luck!

It is that Godzilla motor J
I would put some weight in the bed. At least 1000lbs. If the tires have life left in them, use it.
Don't overlook Hankook tires. They make good rubber. Also consider Firestone.

Nokian E-rate all season AT tires. That is all.

I've been very happy with the capabilities of my Cooper STMAXXs.

A little more detail on your truck and how you intend to use it would be helpful.

My go to brand has always been Michelin and Toyo. I’m currently on Toyo AT3’ on both my F-350 SRW and my Gladiator Rubicon.

If you primarily just stay on pavement then something like the Michelin LTX’s are a great tire.

Michelin AT/2, Goodyear Wrangler w/Kevlar, Continental HT, and Toyo HT on my SRW F350 have all not sucked on wet roads done here in monsoon season. The Toyo’s sucked in other respects though and I’d never buy another set.

165,000 miles on the truck and I’ve never fishtailed in a turn. Sometimes the tires have broken loose on the wide white paint line at a stop sign or light. Never felt the need to carry any extra weight in the bed. Shit, there’s a Corvette’s worth of weight already on the rear tires with the bed empty.

Now Michelin AS3+ ZPs on the Corvette are a different story even when the roads are dry. They break loose in turns fairly easy and you really have to be gentle on the throttle.

Extra weight will definitely help. I have owned More than a dozen trucks in my life time. Every single one drove better with extra weight in them.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
It is that Godzilla motor J
I would put some weight in the bed. At least 1000lbs. If the tires have life left in them, use it.
Don't overlook Hankook tires. They make good rubber. Also consider Firestone.

This is kinda where I’m at, I’ll get 300# out of the topper. Then another 100# out of shackles, come-a-long and tools. The tires I have are probably half life but I hate to replace em if I don’t need to.

And yeah it’s the 7.3 motor, but I’m not even heavy on the gas and the turn tonight when the rear end swung around I was going maybe 40.

The airbags are only at 14 PSI, not sure if that matters or not.

No sense running 80 psi on an unladen truck. I’ve run as low as 30 in some duallys I’ve had.

quote:

Originally posted by phydough:
No sense running 80 psi on an unladen truck. I’ve run as low as 30 in some duallys I’ve had.

I understand that logic for ride comfort, but why would that make them spin in such routine conditions?

If this is a 1 ton dually then the weight of the back end ( rear axle) of the truck is spread out over 4 contact patch points vs the standard 2 patch points for a normal truck.. so without weight in the bed to hold down the backend then the power to weight ratio is not enough to push the tire weight into the road surface without breaking traction..................................... drill sgt.

It’s single rear wheel.

+1 on what drillsgt said.
To add; at 80psi the tire will crown up in the center of the tire, reduce the pressure, the crown reduces or flattens the tread surface leaving a larger contact patch.

Same concept for single rear wheel

Tire age can also be a culprit for bad traction. As the rubber ages, is hardens and loses pliability that creates good grip.

Sometimes tread pattern is a contributor; I run mud tires on my Ford Raptor, when it rains….. they suck on pavement. 411 horsepower and a heavy right foot don’t help traction but, help with the fun levels!

In short, there are many factors that contribute to poor traction.

Certainly air down when running empty. Pretty sure this info is on the door sticker. It was in the past. I used to run around 45psi I believe. Rubber bed mat and some of those concrete pavers laid in the bed. I remember as a kid every farmer I knew had a concrete filled truck tire in the bed especially for winter.

quote:

Originally posted by OttoSig:

quote:

Originally posted by phydough:
No sense running 80 psi on an unladen truck. I’ve run as low as 30 in some duallys I’ve had.

I understand that logic for ride comfort, but why would that make them spin in such routine conditions?

Because you have half the contact patch with the ground. Same concept as airing tires down for driving on sand. If you are running 80psi in the rears, take them down to 60psi and see if that makes a difference. At 80psi with new tires and no load in the bed, the last inch on each side of the tread won’t touch the road. Letting air out makes the contact patch wider and longer.

You can safely take them below 60psi with no load, but the TPMS will trigger a low tire warning. You can get around this by doing the relearn procedure and telling the truck the rears are the fronts and fronts are the rears. Door sticker says fronts should have 65psi so the low pressure trigger point for the fronts is lower than the 80psi rears.

Your truck doesn’t need airbags and certainly doesn’t need any pressure in them when the bed is unloaded.

Wildpeak AT3W's are what came stock on my Gladiator. I've been really impressed with them in the snow and ice this winter. Can't comment on them the wet since I've only had it since November and it hasn't rained.

Prior to that I had run E rated BFG All Terrain KO2's on my 2 previous F-150's and KO's on my F-150 before those 2. Overall happy with them, but traction in the wet with the KO2's kind of sucked. They were fine in the ice and snow, but easy to spin in the wet.

With a 1 ton you're probably looking at E load rated tires. They are rated for higher pressures and you may want to check what the manufacturer's recommendations are as well as what your TPMS sensors are set for.I ran mine at 48PSI on my F-150's and never had an issue.