Main drain for house gets blocked by roots from tree planted over it, took 5 years to do so. This has been a common problem with neighborhood. Builder more often than not plants the required one tree in front yard over or right next to the main drain pipe. Though not on purpose since most front yards are small and usually there is no way to plant the tree away from the line area. And unfortunately it seems the drain pipes are either getting cracked during construction or joints are not sealing properly. And per County Arborist and the HOA rules we are required to maintain a tree in the front yard. I don't have the $2K to have a plumber dig up tree, replace the PVC drain pipe and replant another tree, with a more shallow root system. The roots are growing into the pipe around the last 4-6 ft before it connects to the County sewer line. The sewer clean out is in my front yard, and every house is like this, and I can easily remove the plug to see the line connections and the roots growing out of the house line into the County line. The County came out the first time I had a backup, a year ago, and was able to reach in "their" end and pull out a nice size clump (the size of a human arm) of tree root and clear the line. Which has been working since but you can once again see roots growing out. Local plumbers want $3-400 just to scope the pipe and/or clean it out. But it will just clog again. Starting researching options and found these root kill chemicals with great reviews from users. So to avoid a costly expense right now I would like to try one of these and see if it takes care of the problem or at least slows it down for awhile.

The county will let you cut the tree down if its impeding in the pipes. Which neighbors are doing. But eventually they send you a notice to replant a tree. So the replants are some sort of shallow root tree. And though I haven't heard a neighbor state any letters from the HOA for not having a tree, it is something that at some point the HOA does have the ability to make you plant a replacement.

My plan is to cut down the tree and use one of these products. Wait for a notice to replant from either County or HOA, then plant some small ass shallow root tree. My over all goal is to not have to dig up any pipes.

So which is better or are both the same? Also should I pour it into the 1st floor bath (slab house) or better to pour into drain clean out in flower bed in front yard about 12ft from the main sewer clean out I talked about above?

RootX, which is Dichlobenil and seems to be pushed toward the "professional".

https://www.amazon.com/ROOTX-I...r=8-2&keywords=rootx

ZEP Root Kill, which is Copper Sulfate and I can buy it locally at HD or Amazon.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP...ll-ZROOT24/100074551

ROEBIC brand root killer found at HD which is same stuff as RootX.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROE...ller-FRK-6/100202520

I also am thinking if the above products work as claimed I could rent a snake from HD and clean out the line myself once the root kill product has taken affect. (or is effect, gotta look that up again)

Thanks

Beware of shallow rooted trees near your house. They will be the first to topple in a wind storm. Most will say not to use thr tree root killer for a septic system but you are on public sewer so go for it.

Thanks for the reminder.

I use Roebic Root Kill. With established trees nearby, don't wait more than two(2) years, yearly preferable, after initial treatment.

Pour it on the main line (I have two cleanouts-one bottle down each). Flush the nearest toilet and don't flush or use water for at least four(4) hours.

Was a plumber in a former life... we sold a product called Root-trol. It was copper sulfate. It worked... rarely....

that is... it actually worked for the ~5% of people who would actually use it regularly and not once and forget.

When used proactively and regularly (before a complete clog) the product was supposed to catch on the roots and kill them, and they would then rot off and wash down the sewer with no need for a manual cleaning.

It suggested a 6 month schedule and if you signed up they would send you a postcard to remind you it was time to treat again.

It's heavier than water and settles out in the pipe and get caught in the roots that usually lay on the bottom. The trick is, you have to have enough roots in the pipe for the product to catch on, but not enough roots present to be causing a problem.

I've used Root-X successfully in our SoCal home as long as we remembered to use it every 6-9 months, and not when we had a problem.

If you can, introduce it to the main line from a clean out and not a toilet. DO NOT breathe the dust when mixing the powder components!!

Why not just cut the tree down now? Won't the roots usually die on their own at that point. You could grind the stump if necessary. Then plant the necessary tree when required?

10 pounds

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-..._product_top?ie=UTF8

Copper Sulfate is available in 50 lb sacks at feed stores a dollar/lb.

Thanks for replies. I will be cutting down the tree. But my thought is this chemical process will accelerate the decaying of the roots left behind. If I need to maintain until I have the funds to replace pipe I will. I did read this in reviews. And I also saw the generic bags of copper and will be looking for it locally also.
Thanks

Cut down the tree, as planned, and when the county sends the letter, send a reply requesting a county rep provide direction where to plant the required tree so as to not interfere with the sewer line routing they authorized.

See if you can place the onus for future repairs back on them.

Good idea

Can you rent the plumbers root machine from a local rental place?

It really doesn't look hard.

Good luck to you.

The tree is not the problem. You have a cracked pipe which has allowed the tree roots to grow into it. The root stuff sometimes works but it's not a long long term deal. Snake it and measure the distance of the snake and that should get you within a foot or two of where the pipe is cracked and start digging....

Since you are fulfilling a requirement to plant a tree, I suggest you visit your local nursery for a suggestion. They will know what works best in your area and will not clog sewer lines. The city or county really does not know this stuff. They will also tell you how to deal with the roots. Hope this helps.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
The tree is not the problem. You have a cracked pipe which has allowed the tree roots to grow into it. The root stuff sometimes works but it's not a long long term deal. Snake it and measure the distance of the snake and that should get you within a foot or two of where the pipe is cracked and start digging....

Yes a cracked pipe is the problem. Due to placement of required tree and faulty installs in neighborhood. But since the incidents are happening several years after the closing the builder is hesitant to offer any assistance. This is the plan but not able at the time. I'm hoping the root kill buys me time to continue saving to do it right. And put a tree elsewhere.

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
Since you are fulfilling a requirement to plant a tree, I suggest you visit your local nursery for a suggestion. They will know what works best in your area and will not clog sewer lines. The city or county really does not know this stuff. They will also tell you how to deal with the roots. Hope this helps.

This I will do when it's time to replant. Thanks.

quote:

I've used Root-X successfully...

Root-X is good stuff. It foams the entire pipe rather than sitting on the bottom.
I used to sell it locally and still have some. Email in profile.

quote:

Originally posted by rangeme101:

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
Since you are fulfilling a requirement to plant a tree, I suggest you visit your local nursery for a suggestion. They will know what works best in your area and will not clog sewer lines. The city or county really does not know this stuff. They will also tell you how to deal with the roots. Hope this helps.

This I will do when it's time to replant. Thanks.

Do that,but also buy a tree that's 10' tall in a very large planter/pot, bury the pot and tree in the ground. The tree will stay the same size more or less and nobody will see the pot it's buried in just under the ground level and no roots to worry about.

A few years ago I was renting a roto-rooter machine about 5 times a summer at $65 per, for roots.

Getting tired of lugging that thing around and paying the $65, I decided to try copper-sulfate crystals. They worked so well that every Spring I order a 50 pound box, delivered Fed-Ex, for $135 or so. I flush about 1 3/4 pounds down the downstairs toilet before bed and don't flush any toilet again until morning. I use the crystals every 11 days (+/- a day) and keep a schedule so I don't miss an application (from late February to early November). I've been doing this for about 4 years and have not had a problem since. Using the copper sulfate crystals saves massive amounts of money, work and time over doing roto-rooting.

I get my crystals here:

http://www.coppersulfatecrysta.../7412893/9858824.htm

I like the small or medium size crystals. I have an empty 2 pound bottle that some crystals came in when I bought them at the home improvement store for 4 times as much money. I have a scoop and pour crystals from the 50 pound box in to the bottle to get the right amount. One 50 pound box gets me through Spring, Summer and Fall.

The crystals (and their dust) are an eye hazard so be very careful in handling.

So, what's the risk of killing a tree you want to keep by using CuSO4 to kill its roots?