I live in the rustbelt, drive older cars, and lately it feels like I am replacing brake lines as a full-time job. Every time I do this, I swear I'm going to buy a good flare tool, but then I don't, and end up using the junk one I have again because I just need to get the job done. I just spent all afternoon in the garage with the Impala replacing both rear lines all the way back to the ABS module, and I'm not repeating that same mistake again.

I currently have 2 flaring tool sets. The first is a kit that I got from an auto parts store. It's a cheap piece of junk, and the clamp doesn't like to line up well or clamp cleanly. The arms of the screw clamp are also beveled and don't square up well so the flares tend to be off-center.

Last time I did this, I broke my 1/4" die, and I ended up picking up a whole new set at Harbor Freight because it was the only way to get the part locally to get the job done. The HF tool is actually better than the parts store one...but only to a degree, and today I sheared off one of the wingnuts. I'm over this Chinese junk.

Anybody have a recommendation for a quality double-flare tool in the $100-$150 range or less?

I'd try AircraftSpruce.com -- that or Snap-On, MATCO (both probably out of your 100-150 range).

Tinyman

Actually, after I posted I checked Aircraft Spruce and tho' they list two, both are out of your range -- sorry.

Tinyman

I use a mastercool hydraulic flare kit, expensive but great.

I too replace a lot of steel brake lines in my work. I've been using this one by Blue-Point/Snap-on for nearly 10 years. https://shop.snapon.com/produc...et-(Blue-Point)/TF5A At $79 it is well below even your lower figure. In fact, I don't know of any hand flaring tool that costs much more than $100. The next step up is a hydraulic tool that is $400-$500. Even for professional use I can't justify this expense.

I also have a dedicated bubble flaring tool by OTC that has been satisfactory, but I don't make nearly as many bubbles as doubles. Another hint: the copper/nickel brake tubing, while costing more, is much easier on your hands to form.

quote:

Originally posted by iraIII:
I use a mastercool hydraulic flare kit, expensive but great.

Mastercool FTW. Expensive, yes, more than you want to pay, but it works perfectly every time. When I was rebuilding an FJ-40, I had some time while the drivetrain was out, so I re-ran all new brake hard lines for the entire vehicle, custom cut and double-flared. With the included dies, you can also make a bubble in a line just a bit in from the end, so you can slip a rubber hose over it and put the hose clamp behind the bubble, for that time you need a flex in a fuel line, for example (hard lines up the frame rail, then a flex line when it leaves the frame to meet the engine, then hard lines again from the fuel pump to carb). You can also purchase an optional set of dies for AN fittings (37 degrees, while brake line flares are 45 degrees).

Tom Hulse, the Snap-On toolman in the Ventura area years ago had a bumper sticker that was right in front of your line of sight when you walked up the stairs into his truck: “When you buy the best, you only cry once.” Of course my then boss had the answer, “Until you get robbed.”

There are plenty of other quality tools, but the difference between quality and junk is huge. I wouldn’t buy a junk flaring tool unless it was a one off job that I had to get done now and it was all I could source locally.

I’d investigate prices for Proto, Snap-On, Matco, whatever Aircraft Spruce is selling, any other quality brands recommended here, choose one of those and start saving for it.

The disappointment over a junk tool lasts long after one has forgotten any savings. Besides, if one keeps buying junk, breaking it, and buying a replacement, eventually one will have spent what they could have bought quality for and suffered with junk all the while...

ETA: If you decide to go the Aircraft Spruce route, make sure you get 45 degree dies instead of 37 degree dies. By default, I’d expect dies for AN fittings from Aircraft Spruce. Thanks to henryaz for the reminder.

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:
You can also purchase an optional set of dies for AN fittings (37 degrees, while brake line flares are 45 degrees).

Thanks guys. Egregore, I like the look of that Blue Point one....and if it's working for you, I'm sure it will be more than adequate for me. MATCO also has one for $95, and it comes with a tubing cutter as well. Anybody have an experience with that one?

I bought this Eastwood one for around $150 on sale or maybe with a coupon IIRC.

https://www.eastwood.com/profe...ng-flaring-tool.html

Bought it when I was restoring a 66 Mustang convertible. Saved me a lot of swearing using the hand tools, even the better ones. Made a whole bunch of brake line flares and not one leaked.

Absolutely nothing wrong with the Eastwood listed above.

However, if you'd like a portable equivalent the PFT409 is the answer.
Pistol grip hydraulic flaring tool. Stockwise is the cheapest place I found it at.
I ordered one from them and was happy with the results.

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/...D_BwE&gsID=p2577737&

Another item you'll like is the nickel copper lines. Won't rust do to weather conditions and is acceptable for brake lines.

You might want to check out the pawn shops.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Absolutely nothing wrong with the Eastwood listed above.

However, if you'd like a portable equivalent the PFT409 is the answer.
Pistol grip hydraulic flaring tool. Stockwise is the cheapest place I found it at.
I ordered one from them and was happy with the results.

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/...D_BwE&gsID=p2577737&

Another item you'll like is the nickel copper lines. Won't rust do to weather conditions and is acceptable for brake lines.

I was going to buy a tool similar to the Eastwood model but the one you recommended makes more sense if an on the car repair is needed. I also agree with the use of copper/nickel tubing. Beware that some tubing is copper coated steel that looks like copper/nickel but will soon rust.

A tidbit of useless knowledge that might answer a game show question one day - in a production environment they use something called a Rocklinizer to zap the dies where they hold the tube. It creates a rough metallic surface. Looks like a solder Gun and reminds me of the time I tried to weld like Mcguyver using a battery charger and quarter.

I’ve had a Blue Point set for over 30 years that have proven flawless.that said the quality of some of the name brand tools has fallen due to cheap crappy metal being used.

 
The main problem I had with the cheaper tools was the line slipping backwards when you applied pressure to form the flare. The MasterCool dies have circular ribs on the inside of the dies that form a sure grip on the line, and do not leave any marks or otherwise deform the line.
 
Look at that aspect of any tool you shop for, how does the die hold the line firmly without deforming it.

I use a Snap-On set, it's hand-operated hydraulic, but only if I need super-tidy or don't have any other option. Generally, I use pre-formed lines from NAPA and bend them to fit wherever possible.

I used the Snap-On kit that egregore linked to during my apprenticeship in a shop over 20 years ago. Still use it today on occasion. It is a great tool.

Can someone explain if there is a difference between the double flaring brake tool that is being discussed and a standard flaring tool like I use for copper gas lines?

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
Can someone explain if there is a difference between the double flaring brake tool that is being discussed and a standard flaring tool like I use for copper gas lines?

Double flare gets folded over the first flare.

Granger has one for $40. Can't speak to the quality.