Good Day, I live on a DUSTY road, I am wondering if there is any wax/polish that will not attract dust as I drive down my road or as it collects in my driveway.
after I wax, it just clings to my car..ugg

That's why they make dusters.

wont that just push/pull that across the paint tho?

I have used both Meguiars and Black Fire polish/Sealant that doesn’t act as a dust magnet. I also use a California Duster to lightly dust mt cars prior to hitting the road. Unless you want to hand wash before each outing, I feel the California Duster is a good compromise.

You need to move to a sealant or ceramic coating instead of a wax. All waxes melt (at some point) and that allows them to become somewhat sticky allowing contaminants to collect on and/or in them. Sealants and ceramics don't melt, and generally provide a harder more durable finish. They simply wear away over time.

bigdeal, can i sealant OVER my current wax? (chem Bro's butter wax) ??

quote:

Originally posted by golddot:
bigdeal, can i sealant OVER my current wax? (chem Bro's butter wax) ??

Probably not (might be some that can).

Wash
Clay
Wash
polish
seal (there are polish + sealants that work well)
wax (if desired)

Lot of work, but the results are worth it.

gotchya , thanks !

I have the Meguiars sealant, I'd have to go to my garage and check but it's in a black bottle, on my expedition and it is awesome at not holding any dust and has lasted a very long time in the FL sun.

Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Rejex polymer

http://rejex.com/rejex-high-gl...inish-that-protects/

(You're most likely talking about gel coat (fiberglass clearcoat.)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: jimmy123x,

quote:

Originally posted by golddot:
bigdeal, can i sealant OVER my current wax? (chem Bro's butter wax) ??

Absolutey not! The surface to coat must first be made completely free of all wax and polish. You have to have the clearcoat totally bare for the ceramic to be able to properly adhere to it. Of course, once all the wax/polish is totally removed from the clearcoat, the clearcoat needs to be perfected to remove any/all scratches and micro abrasions 'before' the ceramic coating is applied. If the surface isn't perfected, the ceramic coating will magnify as well as lock in, the imperfections.

Prep for ceramic coating is extensive, and must be done properly, hence the big price tag associated with it at most detail shops.

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Lot's of good marine sealants out there that will do you well. Just stay away from using a wax based product.

quote:

Originally posted by golddot:
wont that just push/pull that across the paint tho?

If all you have is dust then it works great.
If it is dirty you need to wash it.
I've used the California Duster {brand} for years without issue.

Remember when we used to oil dirt roads to keep the dust down???
/thread drift

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Rejex polymer

http://rejex.com/rejex-high-gl...inish-that-protects/

(You're most likely talking about gel coat (fiberglass clearcoat.)

Using Rejex for the past year. I really like it.

quote:

Originally posted by Chowser:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Rejex polymer

http://rejex.com/rejex-high-gl...inish-that-protects/

(You're most likely talking about gel coat (fiberglass clearcoat.)

Using Rejex for the past year. I really like it.

Rejex is good stuff. Sign-up with Autogeek. Don't buy anything until they send a 20 or 25% off coupon to you, then order up. They have a lot of good products and FYI's on how to use them.

quote:

Originally posted by Censored:

quote:

Originally posted by Chowser:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Rejex polymer

http://rejex.com/rejex-high-gl...inish-that-protects/

(You're most likely talking about gel coat (fiberglass clearcoat.)

Using Rejex for the past year. I really like it.

Rejex is good stuff. Sign-up with Autogeek. Don't buy anything until they send a 20 or 25% off coupon to you, then order up. They have a lot of good products and FYI's on how to use them.

Was looking into it after Jimmy posted on it. Sounds great but I don't have a garage for it to cure in. Other than that I was going to order some.

I have used the California Duster for years. Seems like after waxing, static electricity builds up and causes dust to stick. After I wax, I use the duster to remove the static electricity. Dust doesn't stick after that.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:

quote:

Originally posted by Censored:

quote:

Originally posted by Chowser:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Any suggestions for fiberglass clear coat?

Rejex polymer

http://rejex.com/rejex-high-gl...inish-that-protects/

(You're most likely talking about gel coat (fiberglass clearcoat.)

Using Rejex for the past year. I really like it.

Rejex is good stuff. Sign-up with Autogeek. Don't buy anything until they send a 20 or 25% off coupon to you, then order up. They have a lot of good products and FYI's on how to use them.

Was looking into it after Jimmy posted on it. Sounds great but I don't have a garage for it to cure in. Other than that I was going to order some.

You don't need a garage for it to cure in. We've been using it on yachts for over a decade and they're all outside (too big for a garage). In South Florida where it's really sunny and hot. The key is getting it on and off before it's too hot. If you do it in the afternoon and the vehicle sits outside all night, it's perfectly fine. Just direct sunlight and over around 88F it doesn't like. If you do it 2 hours before Sunset or so, and it's 90F it's fine. Direct sunlight and cooler temperatures like 80 and under works on the yachts too(winter time)...….it's actually pretty easy to work with......rub on, wipe off before it completely dries. The curing thing is a little vague. You just don't want to be driving through mud puddles or down a dirt road in the first 8-12 hours. It still lasts a long time if it gets wet or etc in the first 8 hours, just not as long. Maybe 4 months instead of 6, on a yacht exposed to saltwater and getting saltwater spray all over it.