I want to kill the Bermuda grass and other grasses and leave my Kentucky Blue Grass and clover.

We have the irrigation set to run 30 minutes early morning and 30 minutes late afternoon and am in the NE Oregon Desert.

We sprayed, then tilled under, spread three yards of dirt, and planted clover and grass seed.

Thank you.

None that I know of will let you be that selective...

There's weed killer that will kill everything, including all grasses.

There's weed killer that won't harm all/most grasses, but will kill most weeds and clover.

But I'm not aware of any that will kill Bermuda and other grasses, yet not harm Kentucky Blue Grass specifically or clover.

I have put a spreadsheet together over the years of what herbicide kills what lawn weeds.

You might look at and try Grass Beater by Bonide, or Hi-Yield Grass Killer, with both listed as killing bermuda, but not listing clover or bluegrass.

Works in 2-3 days so maybe try a small spot to see if it works for you.

Both products main active ingredient is Sethoxydim 13% (Poast Plus).

This works great killing bermuda in centipede and St Augustine turf.

This is what it lists as killing:
Annual Grasses: Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass (Large & Smooth), Cupgrass, Southwestern Woolly, Fescue (Tall), Foxtail (Giant), Goosegrass, Itchgrass, Johnsongrass, Junglerice, Lovegrass, Millet (Wild Proso), Oats (Tame & Wild), Orchardgrass, Panicum, RedRice, Ryegrass (Annual), Sandbur (Field), Shattercane/Wildcane, Signalgrass (Broadleaf), Sprangletop (Red), Stinkgrass, Witchgrass  Perennial Grasses: Barnyardgrass, Bermudagrass, Crabgrass (Large & Smooth), Foxtail, Goosegrass, Guineagrass, Johnsongrass, Millet, Muhly, Quackgrass, Ryegrass, Singnalgrass, Torpedograss 

I think you are out of luck on the herbicide front, unless you want to kill everything and re-seed with a desirable grass monotype.

If you are OK with the latter, RoundUp (Glyphosate) is your go to. Be aware that Monsanto is now offering several different herbicides and combos under the RoundUp label, read them carefully, and all the way through. You want the original 100% Glyphosate formulation. Also, the steps and timing for a "RoundUp Refresh" are very specific, do your research, and be careful with the mixing and timing of your application and follow-up seeding, twice as strong is not twice as effective, just the opposite. Of course, this procedure has to be performed when both the bluegrass and the Bermuda is green and actively growing, it is probably too late in the year to work now as Bermuda in most areas where it thrives is already going dormant. Before casting seed into a brown lawn, I have found that it helps to thatch/groove the old turf stand so the newly sown seed gets good soil contact. Then, be very diligent about watering, in frequency, time-of-day, and quantity. It helps enormously if you have an automatic sprinkler system especially if it can be programmed for multiple light waterings daily. It is a fair amount of work, but I have seen it be effective in a matter of days. Just as a point of reference, most who have commented on the matter feel that only when weed intrusion has reached 50% is a RoundUp Refresh justified.

You can get an almost as good effect, without the brown period by over-seeding. Specifically, by grooving/striating/thatching the existing lawn, cutting it short (1/4" - 1/2") with a bagging mower, then grooving again, and casting your desired seed variety into the exposed soil grooves. Subsequent watering as above.

This presumes the soil quality is good to very good, if your soil is clayey, or hard pack, improving your soil has to be priority one. Most ornamental grass species are hard-pressed to be anything but patchy with opportunistic weed invasions in the case of poor soils (this refers more to the "tilth" than to fertility, but both are important).

Also, choose your seed formulation carefully. Straight Kentucky Bluegrass is a poor choice for almost every location in the US. Your local extension service agent will have a specific recommendation for your area, probably a combination of a KB variant, a fine leaf tall fescue, and a fine fescue. The theory here being that the active periods of the varieties overlap so there is always some green growing to out-compete the inevitable wind-blown weed seeds.

But, having a high quality lawn is always a challenge and a moving target, get the soil "right," and the weeds start moving in, kill the weeds, and the insects that like your monoculture begin to thrive, kill the insects, and you start seeing fungal diseases. It never ends.

From Virginia Tech-

There are only five herbicides that can selectively suppress bermudagrass in Kentucky bluegrass. These include fenoxaprop (Acclaim Extra), ethofumesate (Prograss), siduron (Tupersan), triclopyr (Turflon), and Tenacity

There is a new herbicide named Pylex that will selectively kill Bermudagrass. It is expensive but you only need .7 ml per gallon of water.

Not sure if it will take out the clover.

https://www.extension.iastate....rol-cool-season-turf

thank you all for your help.

I once asked a garden company guy how to get rid of Bermuda Grass, he told me "sell your house and move."

I think his alternate recommendation was kill EVERYTHING, wait, kill everything that comes up again, and then seed grass, or better yet, sod. That was 15 or so years ago though.