My neighbor got a $600 estimate from the dealership to remove and replace the oil pan gasket to remedy the massive leak.

2003 Tacoma 3.4L V6 with 300,000 miles.

From what I can gather, there is no gasket, only sealant. I've found aftermarket (FelPro, Mahle, etc) oil pan gasket whereas Toyota does not show a gasket, only sealant.

Anyone tried the gasket or is this a sealant only kind of job?

By the way, it looks like a simple wire harness to get out of the way in the front, remove the transmission inspection cover and then there's plenty of clearance for the oil pan to clear the crankshaft.

Thought?

Russ

They probably did use RTV/silicone sealant as OEM. But on the assembly line they had the luxury of having the engine out and flipped over to easily install the pan (and probably by robot), not having to maneuver it between the transmission and frame crossmember and bumping the pan against either of them and smearing the sealant, all while oil is dripping on you. I'd go ahead and use the gasket. Be sure all the original gasket/sealant is cleaned off.



Since the pan is literally cemented to the block, another problem you might run into is getting it off without damage.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/ca...,oil+pan+gasket,5436

Rock Auto shows one.

I can't speak for the Toyota but some folks have had some success with cleaning the outside of the seam with detergent, pressure washer and carb spray and applying sealer to the outside without removing the pan. Allow the whole thing to dry for hours. If money is an issue for your friend it might be worth a shot. Also re-torque the pan bolts before applying sealer. Some folks have used this method on Corvettes since removing the pan requires lifting the engine a little and is a major deal. (Like $1200)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Gene Hillman,

Separating the pan from the block is the biggest hassle.
They don't just fall off after removing the bolts.

A gasket scraper that you can hit with a hammer and some wedges will be needed.
I use an air hammer as most of the time you can't get enough swing to do more than tap the scraper.

I’ve used one of these in the past to separate an oil pan on a dodge. It cuts the gasket really well. Just make sure not gouge the actual engine. I’m not sure how much room there is to get the tool in there on a Subaru. It’s also worth noting while you’re in there you might want to replace the oil pickup tube o-ring. I’d get OEM for the o-ring. They aren’t to pricey. I did this and used a fel pro gasket, and I had no issues with leakage or any issues. Good luck. You can probably find the technician manual online for particulars and bolt tightening specs/sequence for the oil pan.

https://wildetool.com/product-category/scrapers/

Replaced the timing chain tensioner in the wife’s Kia and no gaskets at all just gray silicone. I work at Cummins and a lot of the timing covers and transmission bell housings are sealed with grey silicone.

The trick is to clean both surface and apply the silicone to one part and then allow to dry till it firms up but is still tacky when touched. You also don’t want to apply so much it squirts out inside the engine where it can break off over time.

I’m going with the Toyota FIPG (RTV) stuff as it’s the stock method.

Yes Rockauto shows a gasket but that would be a retrofit.

I will report back.

If you go with RTV, I would highly recommend the MOPAR variant (Comes in a small pressurized hair moose looking can ~$20 IIRC). Used it on two vehicles; very good results (I think better than whatever it is you could buy at NAPA etc.)

WARNING/CAUTION; (Might apply to you?): While doing a transmission service on a Jeep GC (No gasket, uses RTV), cleaning off the old gasket material... turns out the inside machined edge of the case was clean cut, zero chamfer or whatever you call it, ie RAZOR sharp. Sliced thru a thin rag and my finger like a razor blade, only thing I felt was the transmission fluid burning the open wound. Ended up with a $200+ Urgent Care trip (Superglue stitches + tetanus shot)

From our friend at Project Farm. Video released today: https://youtu.be/ACIzlSanS60

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny 3eagles:
From our friend at Project Farm. Video released today: https://youtu.be/ACIzlSanS60

Timely. Looks like the Honda, Toyota and MOPAR sealants fared pretty well. Thanks for the link.

I'd let the stuff cure for 24 hours, or whatever the instructions say, before filling the engine with oil and running it. Since it does so by evaporation, take the oil cap off and pull the dipstick so air reaches the inside.