If I were twenty years younger, I’d be jealous.

I’m just contemplating how to get rid of my beautiful, unused Festool stationary tools.

quote:

(The 3D diagram made me think of it.)

Another thing I noticed is the 12 feet from the door to the center point of the lift. If you're only going to work on your Tacoma, this is sufficient, but long vehicles like these newer humungous trucks will be tight with the door down.

I suggest gluing some "pool noodles" or other cushioning to the columns of your lift. Ugly, but your truck doors will thank you.

Personally, I had to climb into and get inside of vehicles while hoisted uncounted times. If you could spare the mounting point another couple of feet further forward, I greatly prefer asymmetrical lifts.

I can definitely move the lift further from the door. Even though I don't have a long vehicle, it would be nice, just in case. I like the pool noodle idea.

I'm spacing on the bildr reference.

Latest update: The contractor came to inspect the site and saw no issues with the spot I picked. Once I get the foundation plan from him, I'll submit for my permit. They can get concrete going shortly after it is approved, and can start building around 2 weeks after the pour is completed. He also mentioned I was getting this done at the right time because they are worried what the price of steel is going to do shortly.

I just ordered my Bendpak 10APX lift; they were having a sale and are about to announce a company-wide price increase.

I am also leaning towards ceiling mounted radiant heaters (like Infratech). Even though I have a NG line, I have a full set of solar panels, so my power is pretty cheap. The house uses NG furnaces, so there isn't much else drawing electricity in a big way. IR/radiant seems to be more efficient in this application, too.

Pictures will be coming when construction begins.

Site prep:



Rebar prep:



The shop parts:



The slab is scheduled for Tuesday.





Footers for the lift:



Drain for the utility sink and where it connects to the house water line:





More photos after the pour!

Green with envy! Very nice.

You might run ethernet to the shop so that you can extend your network. Easier and better than trying to get your Wi-Fi to stretch over there.

quote:

Originally posted by SigSAC:
You might run ethernet to the shop so that you can extend your network. Easier and better than trying to get your Wi-Fi to stretch over there.

I have a mesh system with a unit in the garage that is well within range of the shop.

I'm sure you're excited. I see your shop is going to be insulated. Any plans on AC?

The reason I ask is my mom and stepdad are having a 30x40x12 shop build in West TN here in the next couple months. Hope for it to be done by October. This will be the first phase of a new home build. He is planning on installing a mini-split in the shop. I'm trying to see if I should talk him into installing two smaller units rather than one large unit. The large unit would be cheaper and I guess with some fans it would help move the air around, but I'm just worried about creating a cold/hot zone near the one unit.

I grew up in TN so it would be MUCH more important there. I'm in northern NM at 6500ft. With the bay doors open, shade, and maybe a fan, AC won't be anywhere nearly as necessary. The humidity is regularly below 20% here. Heaters are planned, but no AC. If it gets bad enough, I can always get a swamp cooler on casters.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:

quote:

Originally posted by SigSAC:
You might run ethernet to the shop so that you can extend your network. Easier and better than trying to get your Wi-Fi to stretch over there.

I have a mesh system with a unit in the garage that is well within range of the shop.

Even so, either ethernet (or fiber if you want to run it in the power conduit) can provide some additional service. If your building is metal, you're going to see some degradation in distance for a mesh. In addition, you can run cameras around the shop and have uninterrupted viewing in the house.

You can still try the mesh, but I'd recommend having a way to run either ethernet or fiber (having a fish wire, for instance) to the new building.

quote:

Originally posted by SigSAC:
You might run ethernet to the shop so that you can extend your network. Easier and better than trying to get your Wi-Fi to stretch over there.

You do not run ethernet point to point.
You run fiber, and media converters on each end to ethernet.
Otherwise you risk potential electrical shock to the humans and/or surge to equipment.

Concrete, then assembly begins 2 days later!!

Frame is nearly done.

Kind of small ain't it?

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
I just ordered a 25x50x14ft high metal shop building that I designed from Mueller. I've been quoting this once every three months or so to keep an eye on pricing.

I also got a decent (comparatively) quote from a reputable construction contractor to pour the slab and assemble it. It will be insulated, and I will be getting a Bendpak symmetrical 2-post lift.

Once it's done (including wiring), I'll get my lathe, mill, beer, welder, bench grinder, drill press, beer, tool chest, reloading equipment, etc. moved over from the extra bay in the garage, install some sweet LED/neon lights and it's Man Cave Time.

...and I used a small bedroom closet for 20 yrs.

Great progress!

Hell yeah, what a great thread.

We have 6 high bay UFO LED lights in our 52’x26’x13’ garage. I think we went with the 150watt ones. I don’t have to take my sunglasses off when coming from outside in Florida when those lights are on.