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Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us ![]() |
I have an RCI metalworks transmission skid plate on the way and it is already powder coated. The factory Ford engine skid and transfer case skid are galvanized steel I am guessing. ![]() The fuel tank skid will be aluminum. I’d like to do my best to keep them from rusting/corroding too bad. So looking at some paint. I had a quote from Line X for $375 but not sure I feel like spending that much. I’ll likely be respraying them on occasion as they are bound to get scratched up. Looking for a matte or satin black. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | ||
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Use that stuff they spray on truck beds? _________________________________________________________________________ “A man’s treatment of a dog is no indication of the man’s nature, but his treatment of a cat is. It is the crucial test. None but the humane treat a cat well.” -- Mark Twain, 1902 | |||
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Can of truck bed liner is like $15 at oreilly, touch up as needed. | |||
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Cruising the Highway to Hell ![]() |
For what you are using it for, get some of this stuff. Rust-Oleum spray in bed liner. Rough up the surfaces, spay them and repeat as required. You can also get it at Wally World if you want that adventure. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Ol...-Ounce/dp/B003CT49B2 “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.” ― Ronald Reagan Retired old fart | |||
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galvanizing works because it oxidizes to hold corrosion from the submetal. if you are going to paint, remove the oxidized finish, usually with a light acid, vinegar. you may also want to prime with a galvized primer. what I remember worked best was a product called gutter grip. back when gutters were standard galvanized tin, not aluminum. none of the above will protect from scratches or dings from rusting anyway | |||
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Saluki |
Aluminum requires a special primer ----------The weather is here I wish you were beautiful---------- | |||
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Acid wash primer then whatever you want on top of it. The $375 quote is actually legit if you want it done right. | |||
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THIS! Having it powder coated would be the most durable. However if you're going to paint it, you need to prime it with zinc chromate primer before painting it. You can even find zinc chromate primer in spray cans at marine stores. I would then paint it with Mercury outboard spray paint if you want it black(if you're using spray paint) as Mercury outboards are aluminum and it is made to adhere to aluminum. Yamaha outboard spray paint if you want silver. Evinrude etech if you want white. Aluminum does not rust. Could it corrode yes, but to the point of the metal being sacrificed, I highly doubt it for the entire life of the vehicle. It's corrosion resistance is much higher than steel when it comes to salt exposure. They build yachts out of aluminum and they fare very well in that regard. They make boat trailers out of steel (which HAVE to be galvanized) and aluminum and the aluminum is left bare and they last decades and decades being submerged in saltwater. You cannot put galvanized on aluminum, the electrolysis between the galvanizing will eat the aluminum away. | |||
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You have anyone locally who could quote powder coating them for you? That would be far more durable than spray paint. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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Lost![]() |
There's always Aluma-hyde. | |||
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Avoiding slam fires ![]() |
Powder coat is the way to go and zinc chromate is for priming aluminum.Looks like mustard in color | |||
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quarter MOA visionary![]() |
2k Epoxy Urethane Primer followed up with a Single Stage 2k Urethane Paint was my first thought if it doesn't get a lot of off roads action. But if it does I would probably use POR and maybe a 2K bedliner on top of that or even the POR Bedliner. YMMV | |||
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Go Vols!![]() |
I guess an important question is - are they for looks or will you be hitting the trails? | |||
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Eating elephants one bite at a time ![]() |
To add to this, are you trying to impress whoever is under there changing oil? Most skid plates (except the first/front one) can't be seen when installed unless you are in a pit, on a lift, or on a creeper. The galvanization is your "protective coating," and aluminium doesn't rust. Now, if you want it all pretty for looks, then by all means find something, but you'll find that doing it "on the cheap" will likely end up looking less than desired. Break loose some coin and do it right. | |||
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Savor the limelight |
I'd leave the aluminum alone and use some sort of rubber washers on each side to isolate it from the frame and bolts to prevent corrosion. | |||
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All the time![]() |
No need to paint aluminum. If you are going to be using them, don't bother with powdercoat or bedliner. Just prime and paint. That way you can simply touch up scrapes and gouges. Bedliner can also be thick enough that it interferes with mounting. I've had best results with Rustoleum red-oxide primer and their professional line of spray paint. I just finished up this set of Shrockworks skids, finished with aluminum color. ![]() ![]() ![]() Also, use stainless hardware for mounting and use anti-seize on the bolts!! | |||
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Res ipsa loquitur![]() |
^^^^^^ Nice work and excellent advice. __________________________ | |||
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All the time![]() |
Thanks BB61. These were a replacement for a set of RCI aluminum skids. The lighter weight is great, but I do too much bashing on the rocks that I needed to switch to steel. Issue after one such trip - split right along the weld. Note - this was an older design that they don't use anymore. Precisely for this reason. I've had it re-welded and will sell to someone who doesn't do as much rock crawling. ![]() | |||
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Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us ![]() |
Gear.Up That is pretty much the advise I was looking for. Now lets see a shot of the rig they go on. I am mainly just wanting to keep rust away as best as possible. The Expedition is not going to be a rock crawler by any means but I do plan on doing most portions of the Kentucky Adventure Trail (KAT) with it. So mainly gravel and rock protection I may have a few decent impacts but nothing like crawlers experience. http://annessky.net/kat/ I have an RCI 10 gauge steel transmission plate on the way it is powder coated from the factory. I’ll likely end up ordering their engine skid too as it is a bit extended and protects some of the approach angle the factory skid does not. No one currently makes a (Metal) tank skid for the Expedition so I am going to have an aluminum pan made. I am stuck with aluminum for weight as it will attach to studs on the fuel tank straps. The Ford factory fuel tank skid plate is thick plastic and costs $250. Should not be much more than that to have a sheet of aluminum bent into a pan. Gear.Up being that you are in East Tenn. have you done any of the KAT?? I hope to get this thing up and ready for the easier portions in the next month. I am now starting to compile my recovery gear. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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All the time![]() |
Here are some pictures from last December's club ride with my local group. It was the last outing with the RCI skids. ![]() ![]() A group shot - I'm the next to last in the back. ![]()
I think we spoke about this once before. Not yet but maybe this year. | |||
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