All good here. Love my caffeine!

I was just trying to indicate that that was the very brand that you wanted to look at. My apologies; I wasn’t recommending anything.

Enjoy the hunt

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Originally posted by Pipe Smoker:

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Originally posted by RogueJSK:

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Originally posted by Pipe Smoker:
And that’s the reason I bought this particular 3-layer Nakiri which has no “Damascus” treatment:

Could you elaborate on that particular Nakiri?

The Syosaku Nakiri in this style doesn’t seem to be offered any longer. Syosaku offers other Nakiris (with Damascus finish), but not the plain one. Apparently Americans demand the Damascus finish. It’s the Williams Sonoma effect.

I also bought the optional “saya” for mine (a nice wood sheath):

BTW – I have four DMT diamond stones with extra course, course, fine, and extra fine grits to maintain good edges on my knives. Each “stone” is an 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” x 3/8” bar of stainless steel with one 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” abrasive surface. Its 11-1/2” length works better for me than shorter stones, providing long, easy strokes.

The extra fine stone puts a wonderfully sharp edge on my Syosaku Nakiri. Its hardness sustains a more acute edge angle than I put on my other knives, such as my old Chicago Cutlery 62 S boning/utility knife. Just a few strokes are required, and not very often.

Interesting topic, you can drill down your type of of knife on the Syosaku web page, seems they have several Nakiri options that are not a Damascus or Hammered finished, a few sold out.

Link - Nakiri

I don’t think you can beat a Tojiro for value and quality. https://www.chefknivestogo.com/tovghana16.html

I’ve been in the same place for a couple of years. I decided I’d suck it up, wait, and buy what I really wanted: a Murray Carter knife from Carter Cutlery.

I just stumbled upon this interesting and unusual Syosaku nakiri ($175.99):

Amazon link: https://a.co/d/4fschdd

Two things set it apart:

#1 - Its asymmetric blade is single-edged, intended for right handed users. The left side of the blade is perfectly flat. Only the right side is beveled to form its sharp edge. That makes it easier to cut very thin slices (it’s said).

#2 – The blade material is very hard (HRC 62-63) carbon steel. Unlike stainless steel, carbon steel has a property that makes is easy to sharpen. Machinists call that property “free machining”. Metallurgists call it “non galling”. I have an ancient Old Hickory butcher knife with a carbon steel blade, and it’s remarkably easy to put a very sharp edge on it. Much easier than my Chicago Cutlery knives with SS blades.

It’s an interesting and beautiful Nakiri, but I won’t be buying it for a couple of reasons. First, I have no need to cut veggies super thin. Second, I already have a Syosaku nakiri that’s perfect for me. See photo in my post four above.

I use a Tojiro in carbon steel. Purchased at Chefknivestogo.com

They have other steel choices.

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Originally posted by Lwt16:
I use a Tojiro in carbon steel. Purchased at Chefknivestogo.com

They have other steel choices.

3 posts above this I linked to one in VG10 (which is my preference ) I agree Tojiro and chefknivestogo.

I'm reading this with interest. Last year, I sought an Asian style cleaver; the sort for fine cutting, not hacking bones apart.

I was Karma'd a superb example from Williams Sonoma by Sig2340. It takes an edge like a razor, holds it well, is exceptionally thin, and is fantastic for slicing, julienning, and generally prepping thin veggies and meat.

I just used it to reduce some cabbage to fine shreds, and thought of this thread.

I know the physical differences between the cleaver and the nakiri, but what are are the practical differences? What does one do better than the other, and is there any reason (other than new knife day) to have both?

^I personally didn't find much of a diffence. I acquired a nakiri after years of using a Chinese cleaver. It seemed very redundant, so I ended up just getting rid of it.

I know practically nothing about Chinese vegetable cleavers, but all of the ones I’ve seen pictured have a sharp front lower corner.

OTOH, most Nakiris, including mine, have a slightly rounded front lower corner. If you’re doing pivot cuts, rather than straight push cuts, that rounded corner doesn’t damage your cutting board as a sharp corner would. I do pivot cuts far more often than push cuts.