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car issue, thought id check here before dropping the big bucks at the shop... Login/Join 
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I'm living in a fairly remote part of Alaska so mechanics arent cheap, i'm guessing I'm just going to have to fork over the $$$ but i thought i'd ask here first.

vehicle: 2003 toyota tacoma, 2wd, 4cyl, base model.

the battery light has started coming on randomly, sometimes it just goes right back off, sometimes it stays on awhile. it seems like it happens when i let the RPMs drop like heading into a hill while i'm still in 4th or 5th gear, usually, reving the engine will shut the battery light off.

Strange part was that the battery light was on about 3 days, i went to start the truck and all the accessories came on 9wipers, radio, heater etc) but the car didn't start, no clicking or anything. i turned off the accessories and the car started up, battery light off...i replaced the positive battery terminal because the one on there looked sketchy, light was off for awhile then came on again.

I'm thinking its the alternator hoping its the battery but I doubt it since the battery is just 3-4 months old and passed the test at the mechanics.

I'm not really a mechanic myself unfortunately but maybe somebody here has had a similar experience. The timing on this thing is bad, probably going to need to sell a gun if its an alternator which is going to run me 6-700 bucks with service here.

thanks!!!
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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not lost...I think
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I think you’re correct in assuming it’s the alternator. But before you go shelling out big bucks on labor for a part you can change yourself, watch some YouTube videos. You may find that it’s something you can easily do yourself.
 
Posts: 2715 | Location: West Texas | Registered: January 19, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yup, Ive been looking at youtube videos, while replacing the thing is pretty intimidating for me, i suppose its a possibility, especially if I can get a friend who is better at it than me.

There is a NAPA auto parts here which may or may not have the one I need in stock but I'm assuming they can get it from Anchorage for me, alternativly, I could just order it from somewhere.

I'm taking the truck to the highschool tomorrow where the auto shop teacher is going to run a few tests to see if he can figure out exactly what the issue is, if he dosent come up with anything, I'll get it into the shop where hopefully they can at least tell me conclusivly what the issue is.

I suppose spending the $$$ is fine if I can get it fixed and be done with it, It would kill me if I got all sorts of work done then that light popped back on in a few days or something.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Some things you can do, or have someone help you do.

1. Check the ground(s). All electrical systems need a path from the source, through all the devices and back to the source's ground. Poor connections are the first and most likely problem.

2. The battery. It is a storage for providing cranking amperage for the starter, and then also acting as a "shock absorber" for the electrical system by supplying power downstream and being recharged by the alternator.

3. Alternator/regulator(s) need to be in good working order/+- range. Too high and it can kill a battery, too low, and the battery will not charge, and systems will be affected.

4. Relays. Relays are sort of like a Wuss having the Hulk as a friend. The Wuss piggy backs on the Hulk and taps the Hulk in the shoulder whenever he needs the Hulk to "apply some force" to a need. Many systems in a vehicle require high amperage, and rather than trying to switch them with small wiring or switches, one or more relays are used, by small amperage triggering the relay which uses higher amperage and correct gauge wiring to handle the load.

All of these things make for a better/optimal electrical system.

But, it also creates some complexity, and that means more points of failure.

Start with the simple, and work towards the complex. You may find the problem and be ahead when you take it to a shop, or find a simple fix and be way ahead of the game.




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Posts: 44723 | Location: ...... I am thrice divorced, and I live in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!! (in Arkansas) | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Belts all there and tight ?
 
Posts: 1385 | Location: Escaped California...Now In Sunny, Southern Utah | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by TomV:
Belts all there and tight ?


Yup, belts seem good, feel tight, no squeeking etc.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Some things you can do, or have someone help you do.

1. Check the ground(s). All electrical systems need a path from the source, through all the devices and back to the source's ground. Poor connections are the first and most likely problem.

2. The battery. It is a storage for providing cranking amperage for the starter, and then also acting as a "shock absorber" for the electrical system by supplying power downstream and being recharged by the alternator.

3. Alternator/regulator(s) need to be in good working order/+- range. Too high and it can kill a battery, too low, and the battery will not charge, and systems will be affected.

4. Relays. Relays are sort of like a Wuss having the Hulk as a friend. The Wuss piggy backs on the Hulk and taps the Hulk in the shoulder whenever he needs the Hulk to "apply some force" to a need. Many systems in a vehicle require high amperage, and rather than trying to switch them with small wiring or switches, one or more relays are used, by small amperage triggering the relay which uses higher amperage and correct gauge wiring to handle the load.

All of these things make for a better/optimal electrical system.

But, it also creates some complexity, and that means more points of failure.

Start with the simple, and work towards the complex. You may find the problem and be ahead when you take it to a shop, or find a simple fix and be way ahead of the game.


Thank you, Like I said though, Im really not a mechanic, in fact, I didn't even drive a car for 7 years while I was living overseas and I'd been very fortunate up to that point as the toyota I had never had a single issue other than just need oil changes, tires, belts etc, never had anything really 'fail' on that truck. So I really have very little experience with this stuff. I have tried to look at the wires etc but I cant tell anything really, I did replace the batter terminal and clean the battery posts and connections, thats easy though.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
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I haven’t had very good luck with the replacement battery cable terminals, particularly on vehicles with multiple wires going to the terminal. I believe a bad cable can cause the kind of problems you are having. It’s been my experience that the best policy is to replace the entire cable instead of the terminal end.
 
Posts: 27283 | Location: SW of Hovey, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes, pointing to the alternator, or some related component. Further testing should shed more light on the problem before $$ needs to be spent.

How old is the truck? Miles? How about age & battery make? My sister had somewhat similar issues with the electrical system, Vibe/Camry vehicle. Early in the shop changed a cable, then a new alternator got rid of the problem for good.

For some reason the Toyota/Camry type alternator seemed to be a weak point, she was at about 110k miles.
 
Posts: 6551 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you aren't totally comfortable with the work then I think I would let a pro do it. But first I would explain to them what is going on... do these things still have voltage regulators or is that just on the Alternator now?


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Posts: 4441 | Location: Greenville, SC | Registered: January 30, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I don’t know how readily available any auto-part store is wherever you live in Alaska, but stores like Autozone & O’reillys can quickly check your alternator & battery free of charge.
 
Posts: 150 | Location: Sunny St. Pete | Registered: March 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You said the Positive cable was sketchy so you replaced it... how was the Negative? A loose connection, or corrosion in the wire can give intermittent issues like you describe.

I would try to find a testing place for the alternator and charging system, or at least get a good multi-meter and watch the voltage at different rpm's and loads... that might help to narrow it down to either the Alternator, wiring, ground issue, or ECM (some vehicles now handle the voltage regulation through the ECM).




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Posts: 3402 | Location: Southern Maine | Registered: February 10, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by newmexican:
I'm taking the truck to the highschool tomorrow where the auto shop teacher is going to run a few tests......

Seems to me there's your answer.
A car with a legitimate problem a teacher and a dozen kids wanting to learn.



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Posts: 5294 | Location: USA | Registered: December 05, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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First off, 2wd in Alaska? Man, you're brave! Shadetree mechanics shouldn't be an issue for you! Big Grin

I was going to ask how many miles and condition of the vehicle. Reason being, that at 15yrs old, the likely candidate is the alternator.

But I'd also check the battery cables for corrosion, not only at the battery but where they terminate on the vehicle.

Down here in CONUS, any parts store will do a free test of your alternator and battery. I'm guessing the HS will do that too.

Good luck!





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Posts: 6917 | Location: Atlanta | Registered: April 23, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
You said the Positive cable was sketchy so you replaced it... how was the Negative? A loose connection, or corrosion in the wire can give intermittent issues like you describe.

Corrosion kills batteries!
My daughter now knows... she had an almost new battery and had these intermittent issues. It turned out that when I looked at the cables they were full of corrosion. A thorough cleaning of the cables is all that was needed. Try a paste made of baking soda and a little bit of hot water. An old toothbrush is a good tool.



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Posts: 24881 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would just about bet it's either the battery or alternator (after cleaning the connections). I am like you where I live in a colder climate. If it were me and you have the extra cash, replace them both...I drive older but dependable vehicles.. The old saying is "it's either payments or parts". I buy parts...
 
Posts: 1913 | Location: U.P. of michigan | Registered: March 02, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by kimber1911:
quote:
Originally posted by newmexican:
I'm taking the truck to the highschool tomorrow where the auto shop teacher is going to run a few tests......

Seems to me there's your answer.
A car with a legitimate problem a teacher and a dozen kids wanting to learn.


I can’t tell if you’re being sarcastic or not, but obviously you this isn’t the final answer to the problem but the tewxherbthere runs a pretty tight ship, has the ability to run the tests and does it for free. Like I said, if he can figure out what the problem is then it could save me some money.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Shaql:
First off, 2wd in Alaska? Man, you're brave! Shadetree mechanics shouldn't be an issue for you! Big Grin

I was going to ask how many miles and condition of the vehicle. Reason being, that at 15yrs old, the likely candidate is the alternator.

But I'd also check the battery cables for corrosion, not only at the battery but where they terminate on the vehicle.

Down here in CONUS, any parts store will do a free test of your alternator and battery. I'm guessing the HS will do that too.

Good luck!


Yup, by the time you figure out barge fees, moving expenses etc I did t really have enough money left over for a brand new truck. Also, the real issue here is ice, there’s only about 20 miles of paved road here too so performance would be wasted.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
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I think he's saying taking it to the shop class is a good idea and will probably yield an answer at little cost to you.

If you need an alternator the shop class will probably put it in for you if you supply the unit, I'd agree that you should pick up a new ground cable and have them run it for you too, cleaning up the connection points and eliminating it from becoming a future issue due to the age of the truck and the environment you live in.
 
Posts: 24670 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Confirmed alternator. Off to Napa to order one up.
 
Posts: 5084 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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