I'm looking for a decent quality air brush, to do a few DuraCoat projects with. I don't want to spend too much, but I'm looking for something that will last.

Years ago I had a cheap air brush to do model work with, it was fine with that, but when a did two DuraCoat projects with that one, it pretty much died.

I would like to keep it under $200.00, and more like one hundredish would be better, I'm looking for an air brush kit, with air brush and compressor and all needed tools and accessories.

Thanks again for your help.


ARman

I don't think you will find anything like that for 100 dollars, even at Harbor Freight. My Iwata eclipse is 200 dollars just for the airbrush.
Compressors can be expensive.
Rattle can sprays from Tamiya or Gunze are good.
With model paints the pigments are ground up finer for a better finish.
For one to two hundred dollars you won't get much. Maybe Badger.

Paasche airbrush.
Made in America

You probably only need a single action and medium tip, you can call about best tip. For air any small or big compressor will work as not many cfm needed. You'll need a regulator to dial down the pressure to 20-40 psi. And a separator to remove moisture.


I believe most airbrushes are a clone of Paasche. I've only used a Paasche so I don't know about others.

https://www.paascheairbrush.com/airbrush/airbrushes

The history of Paasche

https://www.paascheairbrush.com/


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Iwata Eclipse is what I’d recommend, depending on what you are spraying. Don’t try to do large projects that need an automotive style spray gun with an airbrush.

I would also caution of trying to do too much with an airbrush vs even a small HVLP sprayer.
However, I do use an airbrush with Cerakote and previously I used to use GunKote but never tried DuraCoat.

The one that works best is a siphon feed Badger 350.
It performs very well, has multiple tips and has more capacity (important) than the gravity feed units.
It is not very expensive but the only caveat is that with repeated use the metal hose attachment to the plastic body can come loose, I always re-enforce those and it is a PIA.
Otherwise it checks all the boxes.
I have BTW been looking for a similar unit that performs as well but without the hose issue but never got around to trying one.
Will probally try the Paasche Single Action > looks good.
Still it does work well otherwise.

Consider also adding a small-capacity HVLP unit like the Iwata LPH50 or LPH80 (recommended by Cerakote).

Always consider the job size and viscosity of the coating when choosing your sprayer.

ARman check your email.

kit from Harbor Freight worked great for my Duracoat AR.

I piece mealed it: "Avanti"? mid level compressor kit, + their higher end at the time airbrush. Total was ~$160 on sale I think

I see now they have a whole new premium line ~ $199. I would have no problem going that route.

FWIW: I bought the premium brush for the ~2 ounce undermount vessel; it worked ok, but for the 2nd layer of camouflage and some other stuff, I just used the top gravity fed cup; it only holds ~0.5 oz, but worked totally fine, just refilled several times from the plastic cup I mixed in and using the top cup only I had much more freedom to manipulate the brush.

tips:
- Do not mix Duracoat in the red solo cups, it WILL eat right thru and make a mess an you will waste a bunch of the $ product (Clear [harder] disposable plastic cups are fine. they also have nice small ones at Hobby Lobby
- The Duracoat spray can stripper stuff is a total rip-off; just use brake clean and scrub with a scotch pad, blow off outside then flush real good with acetone from the brush set to maximum pressure and ratio
- Practice on some magazines (Pressure, mix, distance, speed)
- Multiple light coats = no runs (The first coat should be a very light dusting, barely showing the color)
- I did a makeshift spray booth; hanging drop cloths from the rafters in the basement next to the back door; had a box fan blowing smelly air/fumes out and suspended all the parts with 550 cord and pieces of coat hanger. Once dry to the touch I moved the pieces sill on the hangers to the corner of the basement to cure for a few weeks
- The cammo templates are cool and work, but take a LOT of time (Hours... I'd say 10+ for an AR)
- The Matte additive is awesome, really works just like the finish on a military vehicle
- Promptly clean the brush with care after each color use, take your time as to not bend the needle or launch pieces across the basement

End result:

Forum member wreckdiver gave me a Paasche VL double action siphon airbrush almost three years ago that I've put to a lot of use with basecoats, etc. It's worked well and been a lot of fun (thanks again, wreckdiver!). I'm still not skilled with the finer points but they do make a nice unit. I use it with a California Air Tools quiet compressor recommended in another thread ($120 on sale at HD, quiet and cool, and much better than those typically found in kits). I can use it inside without damaging my already bad hearing. After a lot of research, I plan to upgrade to the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS that MNSIG recommended someday, but the "don't do large project" recommendation sounds right. Airbrush paint is usually applied in very thin, very diluted coats, so I'm not sure if they would work well for a coating that needs to be really durable.

I used to paint motor cycle tanks for friends. My weapon of choice was a Thayer and Chandler. Made in USA and very good quality.