I have a pretty strong background with water systems. But have not put it to practical application in quite a while. So before starting I want to see if i am missing anything.

This is a shallow drilled domestic well. Under 50'. is cased. Has a static level of 20' and at 15 gpm will hardly draw down. Understand the pump curve just fine. Have the pump, tank, switch, guage, pressure relief, tank tee, torque arrestor, pitless adpt. well cap and hose bibb.

I need to get the sub cable and splice kit. Outside of that I think I am good to go. Just some poly pipe and some brass fittings and clamps.

The well is about 120' from the house. So I am planning 1". I am going to put a yard hyd. between the pump and house to have water outside.

This is new construction. Let me knew if you see anything missing.

The second and more unique project is a portable jet pump set up. I am going to have a 1/2hp jet pump that I want to be able to pressurize a tank to provide water under pressure to different venues. The source of the water will be a 300-425 gallon portable tank. I will most likely run the pump off of a gas generator. Things that I am thinking I will need are:

20-30 gallon pressure tank.
8-10 gallon Dole flow control. To regulate how much water the pump can pump.
guage, relief valve, tank tee, hose bibb, check valve. not sure if I need one on the suction of the pump.

This set up I am not exactly sure so please let me know what I am missing. Thanks guys.

If the portable pump set up needs to run off a gas generator, would it be easier to just use a gas powered pump?

Thanks MNSig, that is a valid question. I need to think on that.
My thinking is I would like it to operate like a regular domestic system. With pressure tank and pressure switch. I suppose a gas powered pump might be capable of doing that?

Rope to tie off to the sub and make it easier to pull up when you eventually have to pull it.

Yep, got that one covered brother.

Got 97% of what I need.

I have got some things to figure out on my portable jet pump set up. I could of just went the harbor freight route but got some quality equipment instead. Thinking one of those big totes in the wire basket for a water source. Hmmmmm

On your first (not portable) system - you mention a hydrant in the line before getting to the house. How do you plan on repair/rebuild of that when it goes south in the future? Sounds like you will need to shut down the entire system while the repair takes place.
It can be done that way, just might be inconvenient.
I have a similar problem right now. My line from the pump to the house tees off to our barn. The frost proof hydrant in the barn needs fixed and I don’t have a way (separate valve) to isolate it while I take it apart. It would have been nice to think of that back when I put it in.

Thank you. A shut off to it is in order.

For your second and unique project, a lot of gardeners use this style pump drawing from a 275 gallon IBC tote. The pump style is self contained with the pressure switch, and a tank.

Not saying use the Harbor Freight version as there are other brands with this same compact all-in-one set-up.

Are you putting in a check valve just above the pump?
Pressure tank is going near the house, right?
Do you need to make any provision for water for fire suppression or are there hydrants nearby?

There is a check valve in the pump. I do have a second check valve. Not sure if I need it or where to put if I do at this point.

Yes, the pressure tank will be in the house approx 125' from the well.

We have one yard hyd planned. Also will have at least two frost proof wall hyds. on the house.

We are putting a transfer switch in at the electrical panel and will be able to run the well pump off of a generator in the event of loosing power during a wildfire to hopefully prevent the house from burning down. Thanks

While it will work, it is generally not considered good practice to have a tap between the pump and the pressure tank / pressure switch and relief. If you do mount a frost feee on the pressure line from the well to the tank you will need to not install the check valve at the inlet to the pressure tank for obvious reasons, but with such a shallow well that should not be an issue in any case. You will be backfeeding your pressure line on a draw until the pump is started, then the flow from the tank becomes a flow to the tank. If the hydrant will only be used for fire duty then it would not be much of an issue, but I would not do it for anything but a seldom used tap.

For the portable have you considered a dedicated fire skid? Tanks, pump, and hose all on a unitized mount. I have been super happy with the brand skid I have, but Adams tractor carries a brand that looks pretty nice that they might have in stock. If using it only for fire fighting the high pressure units are the ticket, if you are going to use it for irrigation as well the standard pressure units work best. I use mine for some irrigation as well as fire duty.

Hey ORC, when you do the outside faucet/hydrant, don’t put it directly inline with the line to the house. Make a Tee, off the line then a cutoff valve then the plumb in the faucet.

That way if you have to work on it, you won’t have to shut off the whole house.

————t———— to house
………….l
………….l
………….valve
………….l
………….hydrant


Hope this helps, ignore the dots in the figure