Long story short - I get four weeks of vacation a year, I don't really plan my vacations. So every year I rush to get them in before I lose them and take a last minute Expedia trip to where ever they have a good deal. I wanted to change that, so I bought a SXS and planned eight trips for the new year.

So here is the situation I have driven a trailer before but never had to buy a trailer. So I don't totally understand how to calculate how much is too much (weight vs size).

Here is the details:

My truck

Chevrolet Silverado LT
Crew cab w/ short bed
5.3 L
Trailer brake controller
Towing capacity 9100lbs.


This is my SxS:

Can-Am Maverick Trail 800 DPS
50" Wide x 118" Long x 72" Tall
1,585 pounds

The trailer that I am looking at:

Arising Industries 8.5 X 20 V-Nose Enclosed Trailer
G.V.W.R. 7000lbs.
Trailer weight 3250lbs.


So my plan is to build out part of the trailer to store some gear for the SXS, as well as some camping equipment etc. So I am figuring roughly about another 1500lbs. Total weight towed would be approximately be around 6,335lbs and with a maximum towing capacity of 9100lbs am I in the safe range? A lot of websites minus about twenty percent to put you in "safe range". Is there something I am missing or is it that simple?

I'm a far cry from an expert on this (or anything else for that matter) but it sounds like you are safely within the manufacturer's recommendations. If your truck doesn't have a transmission cooler I would recommend one. You also need to consider how you load your trailer. IIRC the tongue weight should be around 10% of the towed weight. So with 600 pounds on the hitch of a half ton you may want to consider a weight distribution hitch. But I defer to the ones more familiar with the subject.

Dual or single axel trailer.

First, your max tow will also include what is in the bed of the truck, so don't forget that.

Second, what is the tongue weight? Everyone forgets that, and over loads it.

Third, is this daily towing or is it infrequent?

For daily towing I never go over 60% of max towing. In your case 5460lbs.

For infrequent (less than once a month) towing over short distances (25 miles,) at slow speeds (45mph and below) I will go 90% 8190lbs If your infrequent is longer than 25 miles, or over 45mph, I lower that to 75% 6825.

Fourth, what kind of braking system are you using. You can fudge the infrequent distance and mph numbers up based on the quality of your braking system.

Why do I have these rules? I towed a 7x14x 6ft High double axle detailing trailer all over Seattle for 5 years putting a 150k on my tahoe doing it. Downtown seattle parking lots, to lake washington driveways. Never replaced my transmission, or had any brake failures.

I currently tow a 7x14x2 12000lb dump trailer with my f150 eco boost regularly over county roads. Same rules.

You asked how to calculate, so here goes:

What year is the truck? Payload and tow ratings were not standardized until recently, so knowing the year is important to figure out what standard was being used.

There are several numbers you should know.

Payload - this will be on a sticker on the driver's side door jamb. The tongue weight of the trailer, passengers, fuel, hitch, whatever you have in your truck count against this number.

Your rear axle rating and tire rating will also be found on the sticker.


Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) - the weight of the truck and trailer as loaded should not exceed this.

You probably have a Class 3 hitch. It can tow up to 6,000 pounds with up to 600 pounds of tongue weight w/o a weight distributing hitch and up to 10,000 pounds with up to 1,000 pounds of tongje weight with a weight distributing hitch. How far forward of the trainer's axles you load the SxS will change your tongue weight significantly.

You probably have about 1,400lbs payload. Your tongue weight should be 10% of the weight of your loaded trailer, so 635 pounds. If you have a Class 3 hitch, you'll need a weight distributing hitch. They weigh about 100 pounds. This leaves you with 665 pounds for fuel, passengers, etc. in the truck.

Also on the sticker on the door jamb, you'll find what each axle on you truck is rated for. Without a weight distributing hitch, all of the tongue weight (and more because the weight is being applied behind the rear axle and causes weight to come off the front axle) is applied to the rear axle. With a load in the bed and trailer attached it is possible to exceed the rear axle and tire ratings.

A weight distributing hitch solves this by acting as a lever lifting the back of the truck up putting more weight on the front axle of the truck and more weight on the trailer axles.

I've read the 80% rule, but that's a can of worms just like oil change intervals. Why not 75% or 60%? Understand that the heavier a trailer you tow, the more work you truck is doing and the shorter your truck will last. From a handling and safety standpoint, if you stay below the manufacuters numbers, you'll be fine. That's not to say you don't have to adjust your driving.

Also, be aware that you'll have to periodically adjust the brakes on your trailer. Most likely they will be drum brakes and even if they claim to be self-adjusting, you should still adjust them. I found out this out the hard way.

100% fine. No way you’ll be anywhere near a questionable weight problem with that set up short of grossly overloading the trailer.

As for building out your trailer for storage, and weight. Most storage and stored items ad up fast. weight the trailer after you put your built ins in. Then see how much weight you have over to that 7k marker for the trailer. I bet it will be less than you think.

I'd watch out for correct tongue weight and be sure to air up the tires to maximum capacity as shown on the sidewall. If this is a new trailer, supplied with third world brand tires or used with older tires, do yourself a favor and replace them with a quality brand, preferably trailer rated.
The total weight concerns would vary depending on the type of terrain you expect to travel. Rolling down a flat road is a lot less concern that hilly/mountains. Just always leave plenty of gap to other vehicles for braking.

Make certain that the trailer includes brakes on both axles. Are you sure you need 20 feet? It's more to haul, maneuver and park. Aluminum framed trailers would save some weight on the trailer leaving more allowable for your load if you needed it. If you feel the need to upgrade the tires as suggested in the post above, do it at the time of purchase as part of the deal.

Make sure your tires have the right weight rating as well

quote:

Originally posted by a1abdj:
100% fine. No way you’ll be anywhere near a questionable weight problem with that set up short of grossly overloading the trailer.

+1,000

I'm sure you will be fine with that setup.

To see what you can tow you will need to weigh the truck at a CAT scale or other public scale. CAT scales can be found at truck stops.

The sticker on the truck will show you the following:
GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the overall weight the truck can be including load.
GAWR (Front) Gross Axle Weight Rating. This is the max FRONT axle capacity
GAWR (Rear) Gross Axle Weight Rating. This is the max REAR axle capacity.

When weighing your truck on the scale, have the front tires on one plate and the rear tires on the middle plate. This will tell you the current weight on each axle. Subtract the weight of each axle from their respective GAWRs and that will tell you the remaining axle capacity.

note: Keep in mind, the more people or cargo added to the vehicle will take away from the remaining capacity. It is best to weigh the truck with a full gas tank and you in the drivers seat.

Bumper pull trailers are all about tongue weight. Your receiver should have a sticker on it that identifies the max tongue weight allowed. Something like 1,000lbs for example. With Bumper pull trailers, you want to keep the majority of the load on the front or the trailer can track poorly and cause an accident. 60/40 split over the trailer axle is a good rule of thumb.

Best thing to do after you weight the truck is to weigh the truck again fully loaded with the trailer attached. The trailer wheels would sit on the third plate of the CAT scale. This weight measurement will give your the total weight on each axle including the trailer. Compare this to the GAWR axle ratings and you will know where you stand.

GVWR and Towing capacity. I don't recall exactly but your Owners manual should identify your max towing capacity. It will be a number like 22,000lbs depending on the vehicle. It will also identify different number pulling a fifth wheel or a bumper pull trailer. the gross weigh of the truck and trailer should be under this max gross towing weight value.

My set up is a 2108 GMC Crew Cab Duramax/Allison pulling a 15,000lb, 40' Fifth Wheel toy hauler.

Good luck and have fun.

I'd worry less about total combined weight (you seem to be within defined capacities) than I would about changing the handling dynamics (weight distribution) created by introducing an additional 1500 pounds to the back of the trailer. That 'could' unload the hitch and make the trailer difficult to control.

quote:

For daily towing I never go over 60% of max towing.

I'd disagree with this as a principle to recommend to others. If you meet the MFG standards for the whole towing shebang... GCWR, max trailer weight, tongue load, equipment needed, etc. I'd tow at 100% of the mfg limits every day, all day.
The MFG standards are fully safe for that, provided you drive like you are towing which is your part of the bargin. Reducing those limits is not a 'safety issue' no mfg would publish unsafe numbers...
I do this all the time with big loads at the max GCWR recommended.

^^I don't think he was saying from a safety aspect, but rather a tow vehicle longevity standpoint.

You'll be amazed when in tow/haul mode. Probably will barely feel the trailer on on-ramps, merging into traffic.

I pulled near my 4700 pound limit with the 4.8L V8 across the country and usually did not notice the weight. 6500 pounds with the 5.3 shouldn't be too much different. You'll feel it, but the truck is over-engineered for that weight. You don't tell us the year, but does the truck have the 6-speed? They may have even gone over to the 8-speed.

I'd add a bunk bed in that trailer. A nice wide one.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:

quote:

For daily towing I never go over 60% of max towing.

I'd disagree with this as a principle to recommend to others. If you meet the MFG standards for the whole towing shebang... GCWR, max trailer weight, tongue load, equipment needed, etc. I'd tow at 100% of the mfg limits every day, all day.
The MFG standards are fully safe for that, provided you drive like you are towing which is your part of the bargin. Reducing those limits is not a 'safety issue' no mfg would publish unsafe numbers...
I do this all the time with big loads at the max GCWR recommended.

It isnt about being able to tow it. That should be well with in specs. It is about wear and tear on the vehicle.

If you are going to tow daily, keeping it at a lower percentage is a lot less wear and tear on a vehicle.

The truck is a 2018

The trailer brake controller is integrated.

Dual axle trailer - 3500 break spring axles

Towing once a month.

Tongue weight max is 500lbs

Wt Distribution hitch max is 910lbs

Payload is 9100lbs

Axles are 3950lbs front 4300lbs rear

New trailer with no name radials

Yeah I’m figuring out 20’ would be ideal.

I am glad I asked you guys have brought up some great points. As in how to load the trailer and overall design because material starts adding up.

Bunk beds! Great idea, that’s definitely happening.

I’ll add, distance and experience factor in. Both can be more important than ‘book numbers’.

"It is about wear and tear on the vehicle." I'm going to try and explain the lack of common sense involved in that post. I have a farm and tow horses on a regular basis. Let's say I need to take 3 of them somewhere (12.5K tow rating this specific truck, 4.5K trailer weight, payload at your 60% rule 3K). If I apply that 60% rule I have to make 3 trips to do that. Huh? There is not a chance that's a winning strategy. The actual same facts would be true for you with your 150 and the 12K dump trailer if you need to move more than your 60% limit. More trips.
While you can make the argument that some items that wear are weight related (brakes come to mind and obviously fuel) most everything else is not. Its silly to make more trips because of some arbitrary (and totally unproven IMO) wear and tear argument and tow below max safe load if you need to tow something.
The OP is talking about 8 trips/year with a setup that on the surface is clearly within the capabilities of his tow vehicle. Its time to tell him to weigh everything, get a good weight distributing hitch, make sure he has not exceeded one of the various boundary items like tongue weight, and to change his fluids on a 'severe' schedule.

quote:

Bunk beds! Great idea, that’s definitely happening.

I built a similar trailer for going motorcycle racing and the winning strategy on sleeping IMO is to construct a fold down full size.
I also put Etrack everywhere and that's been a real winner as well, get some cargo beams and you can then have a second floor for storage or use them for attaching things (there are a zillion etrack attachments).