I had an older relative who was terrified of left turns. Before leaving the house, she would plan her route carefully, so that she could do it with right turns only. The circuitous routes sometimes added a few miles to her travel, but she would do just about anything to avoid a left turn.

IIRC, didn't Mythbusters do a show on right turns only being quicker and safer?

quote:

Originally posted by V-Tail:
I had an older relative who was terrified of left turns. Before leaving the house, she would plan her route carefully, so that she could do it with right turns only. The circuitous routes sometimes added a few miles to her travel, but she would do just about anything to avoid a left turn.

Not to that degree, but in almost 50 years of driving I still dislike it. I do, when feasible, always prefer to turn where there's a traffic light.

Loose ground?

Now it does it going straight or right as well.

Everything shuts off as if I put it in park and turned off the ignition. The door locks open, the windows go down their 1/4”, the dash is dead, radio off, etc. This happens for a split second. If I’m going fast enough, it bump starts itself. Too slow, and I have to shift to neutral and turn the key.

I’m guessing something with the engine immobilizer. A year and a half ago, my oldest was going to take his driver’s road test in it, but we couldn’t get it out of the driveway. It stopped dead 3 times. The solution was disconnect the battery for an hour and reconnect it. Haven’t had an issue until yesterday.

The oil level is good, the fuel level is good, no carb, and no auto stop/start feature.

I disconnected the battery and will check the ground when I reconnect the battery. Battery is 2 years old and I’ll check the voltage before I hook it back up.

So much of newer cars' operation is controlled by onboard computers these days that it is hard to do any diagnostics without a "code reader." This is especially true for VW's, at least for my 2018 Tiguan. Virtually everything is under the control of one computer module or another, and a misconfigured setting (yes, they do change themselves from time to time) can wreak havoc with the performance and operation of the car. Of course, VW/Audi have their own proprietary software and settings as do, I think, most manufacturers, and you need model-specific diagnostic tools with the actual factory configurator unavailable except to authorized dealers. SnapOn and other high-end tool houses have attempted to address this issue in a general support-all-models way, but you will pay an incredibly high cost for their products.

There are a few vendor-specific providers that offer some functionality at a much lower cost. Typically, you buy a bluetooth-OBD2 interface module (these vehicle-specific modules are generally 3-4x the cost of a generic OBD2 module), and use a cell phone or tablet to diagnose and configure things (with in-app purchases needed to gain significant functionality). I have one of these, and my experience is that the most useful part of it is the learning curve that the poor backyard mechanic must go through to understand the arcane terminology and how various systems interact. It does give some ammunition when talking to a stealership's shop. This one seems to be the most highly regarded. This is the one I have. The base purchase allows scanning and clearing CEL codes, but not much else. Advanced diagnostics and programming require the purchase of a "support plan" and software that runs on the vendor's servers, not your device.

I'd suggest finding a mechanic who has the necessary equipment, a friend with one you can borrow, or springing for a unit of your own. Not cheap, but it beats chasing your tail, and replacing part after part until you get to happy land.

I have FORSCAN on my laptop for our Fords and I’m spending time right now looking at VAG-COM for the bug. I have a regular OBDII scanner, but I left that in my truck in MI.

The battery was 12.7v this morning before I reconnected it, but I haven’t had a chance to drive the car.

Dropping the kids off at school, borrowing a vehicle from my dad, so we could drop my wife’s car off for new tires. Now waiting for the new tires to be installed, so I can picked up one kid and get him to his football game.

Factory immobilizer or aftermarket, if the latter, disconnect it from the system and see if that helps.

Low voltage ie undercharging and/or battery can cause all kinds of electrical problems.

Clearly not safe to drive, It needs to be put on a factory scanner if it's not setting codes, or find a really good VW shop in the area to go over it thoroughly.

Googlizing VW SW FL, ignoring the dealers there are plenty of VW specialty repair places.


https://legendaryfl.com/vehicle-brands/volkswagen/

VW Forum

https://www.vwvortex.com/threa...53183/?sortby=oldest

Factory.

That's good, sounds like it needs a good scan with a bit more advanced tool than you get with a loaner from Advance/AutoZone

There's a coiled wire bundle in the steering column, the name of which escapes me, but I'd most certainly inspect that.

This is one of the problems that typically are caused by this.

Without looking it up, I think it’s called a clock spring.

I am probably going to have to pay the man.

Been driving it for almost 2 weeks now without issue after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Go figure.

Thats good maybe it's the battery cables, might not be getting a good connection.

I'd still take it to someone who can deep scan the ECM to see what if any history might point to the fault.

Being on I-75 and having it die would not be a fun day..

Either something got rebooted, or more likely, you inadvertently fixed a poor battery connection.

I’m going with rebooted.

The terminal and post were as clean and shiny as can be and the terminal itself is foolproof.