SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Home smoke detector life?
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Home smoke detector life? Login/Join 
Member
Picture of konata88
posted
I have an interconnected AC wired (battery backup) smoke detector that keeps chirping even though I replaced the battery earlier this year and just now.

It seems that these smoke detectors have a life after which they need to be replaced?

Do I really need to replace all smoke detectors (about 4-5)?

If so, any brand/model/feature recommendations? Seems like my model is no longer made -- brand bought by Kidde so I need to replace the mounting bracket and wiring harness (is this a big deal? Need an electrician? or what type of contractor?).

http://www.kidde.com/home-safe...erconnect_with_.aspx


If you are replacing AC hardwired Firex brand alarms manufactured prior to 2009, there is no current model that will fit the same wiring harness or mounting bracket. Replacing alarms will require first changing the mounting bracket, and then either changing the wiring harness, or for certain of these Firex models you can use the KA-F Adapter in order to avoid having to rewire to the new wiring harness. When you change one of these older alarms, you will need to replace ALL devices attached to the interconnect line for compatibility. Follow the below overview along with your new user guide (included).

Follow these steps to replace your old alarms:

Danger: electrical shock hazard! Before removing an installed alarm from its mounting bracket, turn off power at the main service panel by removing the appropriate fuse or switching appropriate circuit breaker to the OFF position. Consult the user guide for your new alarm*

Replace the mounting bracket on your ceiling with the new one (included with a Kidde alarm

Purchase and install a KA-F Quick Convert Adapter and attach your existing wiring harness to the Kidde alarm (follow user guide instructions)

When all alarms have been re-installed, re-apply power to the alarms and test to make sure they are working properly (consult your user guide throughout the process to verify operation





"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
Good for ten years. Very easy to change, Red to red, black to black, white to white. Check to see if wiring has paint on it, if so clean off with wire brush, don't reuse the old wire nuts. My favorite brand of wire nuts are Ideal Twister the tan colored ones.

PS identify circuit and turn it off.

These are the most common ones used. You can also look at Photo ones vs the linked ionization ones. Make sure you get combo CO/SD unit if you have gas or a fireplace in the house. These get placed at the location outside of the bedrooms.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
Thanks! Actually I have the FireX FADC. Is the one you pointed to (I4618) a direct replacement (just rebranded) for my current model?

If so, maybe I just need to buy those units and it's just an easy swap - no rewiring, no new harness, no new mounting brackets?

This is what I have:
Previous part #/model #: 120-1182, fadc, 120-538b, i5000




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
You should replace the plugs, this allows you to check for good connections and paint on wiring. Also the pins on the plugs have changed over the years, unlikely yours will match.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
I read reviews and Q&A on Prime -- sounds like although it's basically the same model, I need to change the harness and mount still. Ugh.

If that's the case, maybe I'll get the ones with the Li batteries - no need to change batteries for 10 years? Any ideas if these are good to go? Or nice concept but poor implementation - just stick with the simple I4618 model?

Li battery model: http://www.kidde.com/home-safe...moke-alarms/i12010s/




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
always with a hat or sunscreen
Picture of bald1
posted Hide Post
Our volunteer Fire Dept came around a year or two ago and installed First Alert 10 year battery life alarms gratis in all neighborhood homes. My old ones that required a new 9v annually hit the trash bin. Smile



Certifiable member of the gun toting, septuagenarian, bucket list workin', crazed retiree, bald is beautiful club!
USN (RET), COTEP #192
 
Posts: 16610 | Location: Black Hills of South Dakota | Registered: June 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
thin skin can't win
Picture of Georgeair
posted Hide Post
Supposedly 7-ish years. I had to replace mine in prior house at about that time for the same reasons you cite.

That's when you notice how freaking many there are in your house too, at $30 a pop!!! Eek



You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02

 
Posts: 12888 | Location: Madison, MS | Registered: December 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
Thanks guys.

I'm trending toward just using the Kidde version of same model as I have (Kidde I4618; same one Skins linked to) as they've been basically trouble free to date and other Kidde (not originally Firex) models seem to have issues with false alarms.

So, likely off to HD to get units and wire nuts. Hope it'll be easy to figure out which breaker is used for the smoke detectors (assume one breaker for all -- hopefully not on different breakers).




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks guys.

I'm trending toward just using the Kidde version of same model as I have (Kidde I4618; same one Skins linked to) as they've been basically trouble free to date and other Kidde (not originally Firex) models seem to have issues with false alarms.

So, likely off to HD to get units and wire nuts. Hope it'll be easy to figure out which breaker is used for the smoke detectors (assume one breaker for all -- hopefully not on different breakers).


Pick up one of These and wedge it against black wire in unit closest to electrical panel. Will beep to let you know when you've killed power, also wise to confirm with multi meter to confirm once identified.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That rug really tied
the room together.
Picture of bubbatime
posted Hide Post
I installed two of the 10 year lithium battery only (no wires) smoke detectors 3 years ago. One lasted about 2 years, and the other one lasted 2.5 years. JUNK!!

I replaced them with the old style hardwire units with 9V battery backup. The mounting plate, and wiring harness were replaced in less than 4 minutes. Dont sweat it, its a super easy job.


______________________________________________________
Often times a very small man can cast a very large shadow
 
Posts: 6712 | Location: Floriduh | Registered: October 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
I checked the breaker box - I have a single breaker labeled "Smokies."

That's a good sign Smile




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
Thanks guys. I replaced my first one with the I4618. Went pretty smooth and quick, only shocked myself once. Smile

Actually, even with the breaker off, I was reading about 1V. So I was a little apprehensive. But slapped on some rubber gloves and went to town.

5 minutes later, the new detector was up and running.

I'll burn in the unit for a couple of weeks before I RnR the rest of the units.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Adding a few detectors to my newly finished basement. All interconnected throughout the house. I bought an interconnected 120 volt combo CO/smoke detector for the furnace room.

I thought that CO units were supposed to be located not more than 5 ft off the floor. But smoke detectors should be mounted on the ceiling. It's a Kiddie and the instructions state to mount on ceiling. I am a bit confused and don't want to waste to $50 on something that won't give me the CO protection I wanted. Thoughts?
 
Posts: 637 | Registered: September 30, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of konata88
posted Hide Post
N2 is 28, O2 is 32, CO is 28.

I think mounting high would be okay especially if air in the room is circulating. But not an expert.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 13216 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ranger312:
Adding a few detectors to my newly finished basement. All interconnected throughout the house. I bought an interconnected 120 volt combo CO/smoke detector for the furnace room.

I thought that CO units were supposed to be located not more than 5 ft off the floor. But smoke detectors should be mounted on the ceiling. It's a Kiddie and the instructions state to mount on ceiling. I am a bit confused and don't want to waste to $50 on something that won't give me the CO protection I wanted. Thoughts?


Few thoughts:

1) Always follow manufactures instructions for installation. They hire people way smarter than you or me.

2) CO mixes pretty evenly with air so it's not likely to matter.

3) The thresholds for alerting are way lower than what will knock you out. So if it's 2PPM difference from chest height to ceiling height it's not likely to matter.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Home smoke detector life?

© SIGforum 2024