Here's the issue - I had an old mechanical doorbell & chime setup. Replaced the old bell with an Arlo video doorbell. Didn't change the transformer or any of the wiring, just installed Arlo's bypass module in the old chime box per their instructions. Worked great.

Did a little remodeling in the room and removed the chime box (and disconnected the doorbell) for painting. Now Mrs.BurtonRW (and myself, for that matter) would just as soon not put the old mechanical chime back on the wall.

The Arlo bypass module still does it's job and the doorbell works perfectly. No problems there. What I'm wondering though, is whether there's a code-compliant product (either a tiny box or other splice/connector device) that I can use for this low-voltage pair that I can just tuck behind the drywall and patch/paint over.

Do I really have to mount a box and cover for this little thing? Is there any real danger to not? I understand the theory behind the requirement for access and when I ran a second low power line for a new doorbell, I certainly put the transformer in a covered box, per code. But this is an in-line low-voltage connection. Probably more dangerous to lick a 9v battery.

So... what are my options? Everything is off the record, of course, but if there's a compliant way to put this behind the wall w/o having a cover plate on the wall, please let me know what product I need to use.

** Before you say it, this barely-adequate mechanical connection was for proof of wiring only. I'll strip the wires on the power kit and either nut or splice the connections as appropriate. **

Thanks.



-Rob

I can't speak to the current code, but none of my low voltage devices (20 year old house) are mounted in boxes. Hole through the drywall

Personally (and I'm not an electrician) I'd bug nut and tape it and shove it in the wall. I might be more inclined to hang something over the hole so I could retrieve it more easily when it dies. Because it WILL die if you bury it behind the drywall. It would for me anyway. But I don't think I would have any safety concerns.

I commend you for wanting to do things the right way , but I have never seen doorbell circuits treated like line voltage . Maybe some jurisdictions check that kind of thing but not around here .

I would connect the wires better and tape it or have the wires from the wall go directly into the white part.

I am not an electrician but it seems to me that low voltage lines for thermostats and door bells dont need boxes.

Would something like this work for you?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ca...et-SC100RR/100160916

Low voltage connections are not code- required to be in j boxes.

I would consider a newer wireless doorbell system as an alternative.

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
I would consider a newer wireless doorbell system as an alternative.

Doesn’t get a whole lot newer than Arlo, and half the reason for leaving the wireless Ring doorbell at the old house and installing wired Arlo doorbells at the new house is to avoid having to change batteries, and also because I invested in Arlo Ultra cameras - which I’m very happy with, so keeping video surveillance in the same ecosystem seemed to make sense.

-Rob

What are you going to do with the white thing (I assume that's your chime?). I'd contact the manufacturer as ask if they sell a new construction version or some kind of finished looking version. Is your intention to tuck the two leads into the wall they use two sided tape to attach the white thing?

Personally, given how easy it is to simply cut in and install a new blue plastic box, I'd install one of those to allow me future access to the wiring, and then cover it up with a solid faceplate. I've even painted a couple of these blank faceplates the same color as the wall, and they all but disappear. Lot faster than patching, sanding, priming, and painting.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
What are you going to do with the white thing (I assume that's your chime?). I'd contact the manufacturer as ask if they sell a new construction version or some kind of finished looking version. Is your intention to tuck the two leads into the wall they use two sided tape to attach the white thing?

The white thing is Arlo’s “power kit”, which serves to bypass the mechanical chime (now removed) and while I didn’t think it was necessary with the mechanical chime removed, it seems to make the doorbell happy (vs not functional w/o it in place).

I wanted to tuck the whole thing in the wall and be done with it, but others make a good point about accessibility in the event of device failure. I might just end up boxing it after all.

-Rob

quote:

Originally posted by BurtonRW:

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
What are you going to do with the white thing (I assume that's your chime?). I'd contact the manufacturer as ask if they sell a new construction version or some kind of finished looking version. Is your intention to tuck the two leads into the wall they use two sided tape to attach the white thing?

The white thing is Arlo’s “power kit”, which serves to bypass the mechanical chime (now removed) and while I didn’t think it was necessary with the mechanical chime removed, it seems to make the doorbell happy (vs not functional w/o it in place).

I wanted to tuck the whole thing in the wall and be done with it, but others make a good point about accessibility in the event of device failure. I might just end up boxing it after all.

-Rob

If I understand you correctly then you still need it to bridge the connection and make a bell ring and that device does not emit any sounds. If that is the case, just replace the chime with one that is more desirable for looks ($20 at HD). Throw away the button, and save the transformer incase you need it in the future for a failure. Then take the white piece and zip tie or two side tape it to a void in the replacement chime.

Low voltage?

Snip that shit and shove the rest in the wall and patch over it and be done with it.