Went out on the deck this afternoon to enjoy the temps and felt a soft spot on one of the boards. Didn't take long to uncover this....



Eight boards, six of them very rotten. I am pretty sure the middle three joists are bad as well.

So what say the SF experts? Repairable, or am I gonna need to pull up all the boards, replace joists....basically a new deck.

New Deck Time.
Use composite this time too.

Fix it now, or fix it later...

I don't understand why anyone would build a deck and not use pressure-treated or composite materials. Just asking for it.

I'm not much for patching unless there's just no money at all to do it right.

I think it really depends on just how bad the joists are. If they are only mildly compromised in that open area, you might be able to get away with sistering them before replacing the decking. By the looks of it though, I think I'd very carefully explore the remainder of the deck and joists to make sure I'd identified all the damage. There still might be some more hiding in there.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
I don't understand why anyone would build a deck and not use pressure-treated or composite materials. Just asking for it.

And make sure to use one of the newer systems of driving fasteners through the edges of the decking instead of through the tops. Much cleaner and less problematic solution.

Replace the whole deck now.

Use PT rated for ground contact, not all of it is.

Use Maranti, Ipe, or other hardwood, or a synthetic like Trex.

Use stainless fasteners, and/or exterior galvanized.

PT has an exposed lifetime of about 20 years, don't put a brand new deck on framing that will crap out well before the decking.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
I don't understand why anyone would build a deck and not use pressure-treated or composite materials. Just asking for it.

I think this deck is pretty old, maybe even original with the house (30 years old). I don't want to put a lot of money in it as I plan on selling around the end of summer. I'm hoping I can use at least the outside frame. I doubt I can swing a whole new deck.

quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:
...or a synthetic like Trex.

What would you advise people in very sunny climes about the heat? I like TREX (and other synthetics) but here in Florida, they get so hot in the summer time you can't hardly walk on them. A neighbor has a beautiful TREX deck on one side of their pool and you dare not walk on it barefoot in the summer without fear of 2nd degree burns.

new deck time. I think you received your money back, by 10 years with that old deck.

On the new deck I would raise the new decks joist off of the ground, Even if you buy direct contact PT wood.Then put on a Trex type with stainless fasteners. Ipe is great and gorgeous but VERY high maintenance, unless you like a very silver color with cracks in it.

The reason it rotted like that is because of the stain on the top. Since the deck is sitting on top of the dirt, the moisture radiates up and gets locked into the wood because the wood cannot breathe on top.

If you go to synthetic or even IPE you need stringers 12" on center versus 20" for 2x6"s......my guess is the more you pull up, the more rot you will find. Use stainless screws, the galvanized are crap and break off halfway down when driving them in and not worth the hassle to save a few bucks.

IPE needs no cleaning, but if you like it clean and a nice wood color, it's super easy to clean if you know what you're doing. Simply get it very wet......then mix up a bunch of original cascade dishwashing powder (like 1 cup to 1 gallon of water) in a bucket, brush it on with a 3 m doodle bug pad on a pole, let it sit 10 mins, give it a light quick scrub across the grain and let sit 5-10 mins (without drying) and then rinse it off really well...….can do the same thing with sudsy ammonia but you almost pass out using it.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:

quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:
...or a synthetic like Trex.

What would you advise people in very sunny climes about the heat? I like TREX (and other synthetics) but here in Florida, they get so hot in the summer time you can't hardly walk on them. A neighbor has a beautiful TREX deck on one side of their pool and you dare not walk on it barefoot in the summer without fear of 2nd degree burns.

What color is it? I always tell people to pick a light color. Light gray, "sand" etc. If they try to get fancy, and pick a darker color, it's a lake of fire. Wood decks will get hot too, I think people forget that. Same deal, if it's dark wood, bad. A wood like Ipe I recommend not finishing in any way, it will turn light grey and need no maintenance.

I have Trex Trancends in my own back yard, and it's full sun all day. It'll get warm, but not "the floor is lava" warm. My young son has never had a problem barefoot.

If you go the cheap route, and just use PT decking, then I recommend not painting or sealing it for a year. That second summer, choose a paint or sealer, and maintain it. Just pick a clear sealer, or very light color, or an opaque stain.

I should point out, the joists aren't actually ON the ground. Even the joists closest to the house are about 2" above the ground.

Over the years I have had three decks on different houses. None built by me and all three were badly built with bad materials. And thats not to say your deck is badly built, thats just what happened to me.
My plan would be to go full synthetic with high end fasteners. But if it is a non elevated deck, I would also consider having a good quality concrete slab poured and be done with it.

Repair with pressure treated and star drive screws. If you hide the screws with edge driving type stuff it might be a real pain to take up individual boards to replace them later.

I have taken the occasional board up to replace it or to get access below. We have on occasion had critters bedding down under the deck. While not a big issue, the skunks are a problem. For that I take up a plank, drop some mothballs in the hole and put the board back. Mothballs stink for a few days, the skunks can’t stand it and they go away. In a week the mothballs are gone too.

Just replaced one of two soft boards on mine. I would do the minimum to safely retain deck function since you are selling.

I agree with complete deck replacement. This time pour footers and elevate to get the wood away from the ground. Don’t put your posts inside the concrete, bolt to the top of them. After you get the footers set, treat the entire footprint with a weed killer, add a heavy mil poly sheet, and gravel layer.

Elevate high enough for a leaf blower to be able to blow debris out from under it. Even if the joists are a few inches above, moisture can obviously affect them and rot over time. Get a bit more clearance if you are able. And lastly, make the deck with Trex or similar

From what I can see, it looks like the joists seem to be in pretty good shape.

I ran into somewhat the same condition on a raised deck. Stripped all the old decking off, found a couple joists that were a little damaged from rain/snow. Put "sister" 2x4s where that damage had occurred. Used bolts to hold them in place, and laid all new pressure treated
decking.

Will be painting it later this spring. Instructions for the decking said to wait a few months before painting.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
My plan would be to go full synthetic with high end fasteners. But if it is a non elevated deck, I would also consider having a good quality concrete slab poured and be done with it.

I agree.
Perhaps I don't see enough in these pictures, but if the deck is pretty close to ground level, why not go with a patio?
Less maintenance over time.

Forget the deck. Go with a patio. Use the small blocks. It is easy to do and you can do it at your own pace.

Patio not really an option. House is on the side of a hill with a fairly decent slope. The deck behind me is like 5' off the ground.