quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:
I recently had to replace my Furnace, Cooling, and Water Heater. Total cost for all was 9100 bucks installed.

Note, I really didn't have to replace the water heater but since I installed that unit August of 2004 I thought it wise to do so. Installed that 50 gallon unit myself and it wasn't a very difficult job. However getting the old 40 gallon water logged unit up the stairs and out of my basement was not easy, that thing weighed in at 250-300 lbs based on my "lift" test. Ended up tying off a line on the trailer hitch on my car and heater and making an improvised come along to haul it up the stairs.

The replacement is a Rheem Fast Recovery 40 gallon commercial and it actually does provide enough hot water for my nice long showers after a good workout at the gym. Not really concerned about it's lifespan, in 3 years I'll be 70 and will retire and get the hell out of Michigan.

So, recommendations. First, if you are Fit and Strong it's really not difficult to do it yourself. I had mine done because I now have Arthritis in both wrists and simply cannot horse something like that up or down a flight of stairs.

Tips for doing it yourself is first don't cheap out on the copper tubing, get more than you anticipate needing and make sure you have at least 4 45 degree elbows and 4 joining sleeves. There is zero standardization over the years for the position of the hot and cold pipes on a water heater and doing a criss cross is common in order to get the gas connection to line up. second, when you shut off the incoming water make sure to open ever tap in the house to get the water lines as dry as possible. In addition plan on using some bread to act as a dam for any water seepage. Just stuff the bread 8 or 12 inches up stream from the joint you'll be soldering and use a Map Gas torch to heat the joint quickly. Note you will also want to purchase Flux and "silver" solder and be meticulous about having every thing new penny spotless and well fluxed before starting. Finally when you go to haul that old unit out have some help, a safety rope, and do NOT take any chances, an out of control water heater on stairs can actually kill someone. BTW, a bit of iron pipe and two elbows is very convenient for making a loop between the hot and cold pipes to use as a tie off. Just make two L shapes and wire tie the horizontal legs together and you have a good strong tie off.

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:
I assume I can just unscrew the gas tubing after shutting gas off and use again for new tank, but is there anything you put around the threads for that?

Well one question answered. The yellow gas line says to never re-use it so I will have to use a new one.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
Just unscrew the drain on your TPO valve and reuse it on your new tank. You can use Teflon tape or pipe dope if you want, but it isn't really necessary. It is only there as a drain, so it isn't a pressure holding pipe. A lot of installations just have them going down into the catch pan.

The gas line has a compression coupling screwed onto a MIP adapter, which is screwed into the gas valve. Just unscrew the gas line, remove the adapter, apply gas-rated Teflon tape or dope (yellow) to the MIP adapter threads, screw that into your new valve, and then reconnect the gas line to the compression fitting. I've reused gas lines all the time. Check them for gas leaks with a soapy water mixture after you're done.

Do not add any tape/dope to the threads of the compression fitting. Not only does it instantly identify that an amateur was involved, the dope can interfere with the compression seal if it gets on the mating surface. Only the MIP/FIP side of the fitting needs Teflon tape or dope.

ETA: Use two wrenches when tightening up the compression coupling. You want it really tight, but you don't want to keep screwing that MIP connection in and risk breaking the gas valve. Use a second wrench to hold the MIP adaptor, and then get that compression coupling really tight.

quote:

Originally posted by heydrich:
Just had my water heater replaced.
Was a Bradford with a 6 year warranty and
Of course is was 7 years old!
7 years ago cost us $909.00
New one was $1255.71
Always thought you should get more life than
7 years.
Replaced with another Bradford and while plumber was leaving I said “I guess I will see you again in another 7 years”.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris42:
I have an AO Smith water heater, oil fired. Works fine, No issues, purchased from a plumbing supply house.

My recommendation is to handle the heater GENTLY. Do Not lay it down, bump it around, etc. The glass lining can be damaged in handling and can shorten the life of the unit. Water penetrating the glass lining potentially will cause rust in the tank itself. Enough time, enough rust and that is the end of the water heater. It won’t happen immediately. It might last a few years, where a good one may last 10 or 15 years.

In all cases you have to assume they have been handled gently before you got it.