Watched YT examples.

Bought super cool plumbing tool from a plumbing supply house. It has a conical expanding device to press three steel knurled wings outward to grab the drain inside diameter. Does not work. Steel wings slip inside the drain.

Tried moving the drain with the nearly corroded plus-shape frame. Not possible. One leg snapped.

Have a brass conical tool on hand that is still in the package. I'd prefer to leave it in the package and return it ($20). Supposedly you tap it into the drain and it bits the interior, and you use a 1/2 or 3/8 ratchet to remove the drain.

Given the 20 year old drain is doubtless chemically attached to the tub, and also is corroding away, what would you all recommend as a next step?

Any solvents safe for tubs that would wick under the drain flange?

Does the brass tap-in tool actually work?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 4MUL8R,

If I had this problem I’d call my very expert plumber.

^^^ I'd have to agree at this point.

If water is not standing, first, clean the drain by filling with baking soda then pouring apple cider into drain - slowly. This will descale the drain. Then use your super-duper conical device, now with two wings, and see if you get traction.

After this, call the plumber.

20-year old drain is not that old. 20-year old tub as well? Enameled steel? Fiberglass? Composite? Cast iron?

Sawzall is the usual solution.

You put on hearing protection, use a straight-pattern reciprocating saw (not orbital) with fine-toothed blade , and make several notches across the lip and on the interior through the threads where the strainer screws into the shoe.

Two vertical notches plus two small diagonal/horizontal slices should be enough to pry up part of the circumference of the strainer. At that point it should be possible to knock the shoe off.

Usually we get them out with an open-end wrench and a cross-bar (like a screwdriver) into the "T" which you broke apart. But if there is still something to grab, I'd try that first.

I've also used heat; in theory it can also be cut off from below, right through the rubber gasket and strainer.

Fiberglass tub with shower. 2nd floor. No access panel to pipes. Would have to open wall up in a bedroom closet to gain access there.

I have called an expert who I trained with some months ago. He was not hopeful.

Are you trying to change the strainer, and install a toe-tap-style open/close strainer? Or maybe just change the strainer for a nicer look?

Is there still a lever on the overflow plate which raises and lowers a plunger to stop/open the drain?

If there is no "trouble door" allowing access to the rear of the tub (I call it the rear, but it would be the head of the tub), the components would either be "plastic-welded", i.e. glued together, or installed without any manner to check for leaks.

In these parts you can have a solid trap, everything glued or soldered together, and skip the access panel, but usually there is access. No other way to swap out the trip-waste-and-overflow assembly.

If you are trying to change the strainer-only, you'd typically change the rubber gasket between the shoe and the strainer at the same time. You'd want to "hold back" on the shoe while another was spinning the strainer home. Holding back laying on the floor in the closet, one arm under the tub, holding the short piece of pipe which runs from the strainer to the tee between the overflow and the trap.

The only seal on the strainer is a little plumbers putty under the strainer lip. Between the tub and the shoe is only the flat rubber washer.

Without access behind the tub, it is a job to maybe leave alone. I'd not do that job without a "leak disclosure", meaning I have no way to inspect the integrity of the job since there is no access to the drains for inspection.

How handy are you?

I would put in the access panel in the closet. Start with a small hole, say 4x4, and look in with a flashlight. Then enlarge it to a stud on each side. Then see what kind of work needs done from that side.

I don’t know of any drain that can be replaced/repaired from one side only. You might get the part out that you can see from the shower, but what is that attached to?

When done with the access panel, cover the hole with a piece of 3/8” plywood, about 4” larger each way than the hole. Install with drywall screws. Paint as needed. Done

Job has been cancelled. Thanks to all for advice.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:


Have a brass conical tool on hand that is still in the package. I'd prefer to leave it in the package and return it ($20). Supposedly you tap it into the drain and it bits the interior, and you use a 1/2 or 3/8 ratchet to remove the drain.

I purchased this tool due to the little cross hairs snapping off. Thought i was screwed but i found the tool at Home depot. Worked like a charm. I used my longest extension and biggest 3/8 ratchet.

Did the same access panel as Chris. The only thing that I did differently was to put a large air return grate over the cut out. Gave a more finished look.

Have done many that refused to move, broke]out the Dremel and done. And yes, they are correct, you need access from the back side to remove the old waste and overflow.