Bought a 20” model from Lowe’s almost two years ago but never even took it out of the box. I’ve had some cleanup to do on my property and decided today was the day. Plus my ancient 14” has become a total SOB to start.

That new one only took 3 pulls and it took off. I had almost forgotten how nice a smooth running machine with a fresh chain can be. Obviously can’t comment on the long term quality but out of the box, it’s a damn nice chainsaw.

Awesome!
I spent the weekend with the chainsaw too...

As I get older, there are a lot of times I'd rather have a smaller, lighter saw. I'm glad my brother has a 16" blade on his MS250.
But when you need a 20”, you need a 20”!

I got 39 years out of my first Husky, the second will probably outlive me.

quote:

Originally posted by chellim1:
Awesome!
I spent the weekend with the chainsaw too...

As I get older, there are a lot of times I'd rather have a smaller, lighter saw. I'm glad my brother has a 16" blade on his MS250.
But when you need a 20”, you need a 20”!

I specifically bought my Husky XP because it had a better power to weight ratio than the comparable STIHL....Getting old SUCKS!

Hoping you spent some $ on protection gear.

Motorcycles and chain saws, some
E.r. veterans people get opinionated when those customers expect to jump the line .

The electronically-control carburetors of recent years have made a huge difference in starting chainsaws. Changes in engine temp, air temp, altitude, and air pressure often resulted in starting frustrations with older saws. Flooding was a regular problem. The better new saws even start when they've been sitting for extended periods, often with not-so-good gas. Both Husky and Stihl have this figured out. It's nice to hear that a saw is so well behaved after a couple years of non-use.

My 20 year old Stihl 310 (manual carb) was tuned at 5,200' elevation in the summer, so it runs great in warmer temps, and at altitudes up to around 7,000'. I didn't run well last winter at 8,500'. My B-I-L's Stihl 271 and 390 have similar issues. His Husky 272 is finicky. When we can get it warmed up properly, it runs great. But when it won't start, we just curse and grab a different saw.

My newer Stihl 261 and 400 have electronic carb controls, and nothing seems to phase the way they start and run.

******
IMO bar length is a function the type of wood one cuts, how much bar one buries in the wood, and engine horsepower.

If a person is only cutting small diameter logs, then a longer bar on a smaller saw is fine. The longer bar makes it easier to many people to cut logs that are on the ground, as they don't have to bend over as far.

Once you start burying the full length of the bar into wood, then bar length & horsepower should be matched. Some people are content to have a chainsaw that just slowly grinds away on bigger wood, but it's really not the best way to cut. And if the engine is bogging down heavily, that's not good for the saw.

I like the metric that for each HP, bar length shouldn't be more than 4 inches -- or maybe 5 inches if you're willing to deal with slower cutting. Understand that this is for a "full-comp" chain, the ones that most folks use. Skip-tooth chains for the professional fallers are a different matter. Anyway, my Stihl 310 and 261 have 4 HP engines, and I have 16" bars on them. I can pretty much bury the full bar in 16" of wood and have decent cutting speed. I couldn't do that with 18" or 20" bars fully buried.

My Stihl 400 produces 5.4 HP. The standard bar is 20", and the saw just slices through wood with it. But I also have a 25" for larger trees. When I cut with the 25" bar (both full-comp and skip-tooth chains), I have to back off on bar pressure and allow the saw cut at a slower speed.

Leemur, sounds like you got a nice saw and come time to use it, it did the job. I can't imagine life before chain saws!

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:


IMO bar length is a function the type of wood one cuts, how much bar one buries in the wood, and engine horsepower.

If a person is only cutting small diameter logs, then a longer bar on a smaller saw is fine. The longer bar makes it easier to many people to cut logs that are on the ground, as they don't have to bend over as far.

Once you start burying the full length of the bar into wood, then bar length & horsepower should be matched. Some people are content to have a chainsaw that just slowly grinds away on bigger wood, but it's really not the best way to cut. And if the engine is bogging down heavily, that's not good for the saw.....

I agree, a longer bar gets you a little more reach. I have 18" and 20" bars for my Stihl 261 and prefer the 20" even though 95% of the time I'm cutting under 18". But it is handy when I need to cut the occasional 18"-19"+ log, just need to go slow in anything over 14" or so. In those rare instances I would be better served with a more powerful (and heavier) saw but I'm down to 2 saws and the 261 is the larger one I have now so I have to make do with it.

I bought my Stihl chainsaw about ten years ago and it has served me well when I've needed it. I cut down a tree a few years ago but never got around to splitting the wood so today I cut it up, bagged it so tomorrow waste management can take it and I'll be rid of it. I don't use it often but it never fails to start although it did take quite a few pulls today to get it running.

I finally gave up on my old Stihl Farm Boss last month. IIRC I researched it at one point to have been made in 1977. I can't complain, I got it for free, someone threw it out. Someone had obviously dropped it out of a tree and smashed it, done some crude repair and given up on it. It was already WELL used and abused at that point. I grabbed it, did a slightly less, but still crude repair on it and used it for years. It always started right up, no matter how many years it sat. Then one year it didn't. I took the covers off to find the fuel lines were gone. Just little brown melted nubs at the end. The "new" ethanol fuel had totally dissolved them. I set it aside for another time. Probably a decade went by.

I bought some land this year, lots of down trees needing attention. So I bought a carb and a tune up kit for it. "Good lord this thing is heavy." "Man it's hard to pull, damn near yanking my arm out of the socket". All things I hadn't remembered. And still it didn't start. I thought "I guess it's time" and walked it out to the front yard and set it on the ground next to my trash cans. (sniff)

So I need a saw. Now that Husky has gone big box brand, that'll be the easiest to buy and what I'll probably end up doing out of last minute frustration one day.

I have two Husqvarna 20" Ranchers and both run great; easy start, good torque etc, absolutlely no complaints. Both are factory refurbs so I picked them up for about half the price of a new one. Both came from the refurb shop looking brand new. If you keep your eyes on ebay, you can often find the refurbs for less than $300.

I have a Husky 55 Rancher that I bought from a mom and pop shop in 2000. I burn 6-7 cords every winter and cut up to 8-9 cords every spring. As of right now I have a three year supply of wood. This saw is the shit! Been through several chains, a couple of bars(20in), and a clutch. Not opposed to Stihl either as we keep one at our hunting property. Take care of it and these will take care of you.