What am I doing wrong? The brake caliper cylinders on both sides in the rear on my 2015 Buick Encore will not budge. Tried reliving the bleeder valve to no avail.

This simple brake job is turning into a real bitch.

Is there an emergency brake component on them that would interfere with retraction?

This wouldn’t be the style where the piston gets screwed in rather than pushed in would it? Takes a special tool to do it also. Good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:
Is there an emergency brake component on them that would interfere with retraction?

Could be. Should i remove the cable?

quote:

Originally posted by ch23701:
This wouldn’t be the style where the piston gets screwed in rather than pushed in would it? Takes a special tool to do it also. Good luck.

I don't think so, there are tabs on the pads that go into notches on the cylinder.

quote:

Originally posted by ch23701:
This wouldn’t be the style where the piston gets screwed in rather than pushed in would it? Takes a special tool to do it also. Good luck.

This is my first guess. First time I ran into one of the rotary style pistons confused me.

You can Rent a tool from any local autozone type places. Usually free if you return same day.

Often a C-clamp is required to compress the cylinder allowing enough clearance.

I don't know about your Buick specifically, but I have done this on Jeeps.

Check You Tube. Put in your specific make and model.

quote:

Originally posted by HighZonie:
Often a C-clamp is required to compress the cylinder allowing enough clearance.

I don't know about your Buick specifically, but I have done this on Jeeps.

Check You Tube. Put in your specific make and model.

+1, and also sometimes a large channel lock plier can do in a pinch.

E brake disengaged (since you are doing pads on rear)?

Did you take the fill cover off the master cylinder?

I haven't done pads on the rear, ever, although, I understand most newer vehicles come with 4 wheel disc brakes. To compress the cylinders, I have had good luck with a large c clamp and a block of wood to get them to compress (have the cover of the master cylinder off). Do it slowly, otherwise, may end up with a little splash in the engine bay of brake fluid.

Same thing happened n one my vehicles. I had to turn the key on to the accessory position. Freed the system right up

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:

quote:

Originally posted by ch23701:
This wouldn’t be the style where the piston gets screwed in rather than pushed in would it? Takes a special tool to do it also. Good luck.

I don't think so, there are tabs on the pads that go into notches on the cylinder.

Well, maybe I'm dumb. I think you're correct. Gonna try.

I've done it before using C-clamps and Channellock pliers, but then I got a disc brake pad spreading tool. They're cheap.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Li...r-LIS24400/206994835

You'll want to remove some brake fluid from the resevoir or be prepared to have it overflow into your engine bay.

Yes, it was a turn-in type. Now do the brakes adjust themselves with by turning or do I have to do something?

They self adjust back out when you apply the brakes. Like any brake job, I'd pump those a couple times before driving off...

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:
They self adjust back out when you apply the brakes. Like any brake job, I'd pump those a couple times before driving off...

so just don't take off towards the river then?

quote:

pump those a couple times before driving off

Don't let it alarm you. When you get in and crank her up. First couple of brake taps may go all the way to the floor. It'll firm up after a few pumps.

I've done Eleventy Bazillion Buick Brake jobs. The answers have already been given.

A large C-Clamp with one side on the caliper piston (ring like thing), and the other on the opposite side of the caliper. Compress the caliper piston into the brake caliper. Take it slow and don't force anything. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston.

Do pump your brakes before you put it in drive. You will know this is done right when your brake pedal responds with the normal resistance.

Do not open the relief valves if you can avoid it. You do not want to introduce air into the system. Bleeding brakes is a pain in the butt, and requires two men and a boy to get all of the bubbles out.

H&K-Guy

The correct answer award goes to ch23701. Saved me from taking it to the auto repair dude!

This job still cost me about $400 though because I forgot to switch to my work glasses and flung my good glasses off of my head and then I sat on them ruining the lenses.

Your welcome. Glad we could help!

Chris