I am purchasing a 2007 Suburban from my sister. Excitedly I spend literally hours keying in all regular production option codes from the 2007 Suburban glovebox decal into a spreadsheet, then finding the corresponding meaning. No code signified that the SUV had a trailer package. I'm thinking oh well, I can always create my own. I start searching for transmission cooler, wiring, jacks, and then it dawns on me. I have a picture of the trailer hitch area of the bumper. Sure enough there is a 7-pin jack. Only trucks with packages have those. So I find the 2007 trailer guide from Chevrolet online. There in the Suburban section it says that all suburbans have a trailer towing package.

Hours wasted wondering if my new to me Suburban can tow. Why not list Z82, Chevrolet?

Because if an RPO component is a sub component of another RPO it will not show up on the SPID label.

Why didn't you just ask your sister?

To elaborate on the earlier comment.

GM in their infinite wisdom did not list sales packages on SPID labels either. Our catalogs did not break down those packages either so in a lot of instances we had no idea what we were looking for.

Originally when SPID's were introduced in the 80's there was more information on them but as time progressed thinks changed.

My sister wouldn't know. She's a girl.

I'm kidding. She has an engineering degree too.

Z82 RPO sounds like a football play...

"Omaha Omaha Z82 RPO Omaha 14 Left HIKE!"

I'm going out on a limb here but if your sister never mentioned trailer towing the salesman may never had said anything about it being equipped as such. I'll bet he was talking up every creature comfort in it instead like heated seats, satellite radio, dual zone front heat controls. Or more likely the salesman didn't know that Suburbans all had that package from the factory. Would not have been the first time a salesman would come back to parts wanting to add something that was already on the vehicle.

We in parts may not have known it either. Our GM new product training was nil, all trial and error. Never changed one bit from my first day in 1970 to the last one in the business in 2017. That was always one of my complaints that sales and service had that training we in parts were left to fend for ourselves. I was on the counter side and management side and nothing ever changed.

One thing you cannot install is the factory trailer brake option, JL1.

While I can't find the TSB and no longer can access them the factory states it cannot be retrofitted. Common question, nobody ever liked that answer. I kept a couple of copies of the TSB for that purpose.

One of the truck forum threads has a posting saying it can be done. But he had to have some programming done under a VIN that had that option.

And as a plus he had to disconnect and reconnect a harness to clear a trouble code regularly. Personally I thing that messing with the electronics in that integrated system is just asking for problems maybe not right away but definitely some time in the future.

I don't see JL1 but with the seven-pin hitch jack, I hope it has the equivalent.

https://testing-public.carmd.c...load/101109/e624be82 has your comment on the impossibility of adding, but my 2007 Suburban is not listed there.

It will take a few months to get this 155K mile Suburban sorted out. Lots of little things are in need of care. But, the price was right. And, I think I can tow reasonably sized RV trailers with it, as my wife and I prepare for a retirement adventure of travel. The entire "mission" is to determine if trailers or motorhomes are desired. I'll be renting both and comparing over the next four years.

You would see a switch on the lower part of the dash panel. JL1 is a separate option, not part of the regular trailer package if memory is correct.

Even if it doesn't have the factory brake controller option, an aftermarket one is easy to install, and Tekonsha sells harnesses for it that plug directly into the fuse block under the dash. I have a prodigy P2 that works very well, and bought two separate mounts and harnesses for it...it's a breeze to move back and forth between my Suburban and my Silverado, and I think I have less that $150 in the whole setup.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
I don't see JL1 but with the seven-pin hitch jack, I hope it has the equivalent.

https://testing-public.carmd.c...load/101109/e624be82 has your comment on the impossibility of adding, but my 2007 Suburban is not listed there.

It will take a few months to get this 155K mile Suburban sorted out. Lots of little things are in need of care. But, the price was right. And, I think I can tow reasonably sized RV trailers with it, as my wife and I prepare for a retirement adventure of travel. The entire "mission" is to determine if trailers or motorhomes are desired. I'll be renting both and comparing over the next four years.

I'd be afraid to tow a travel trailer behind a Suburban with 155k miles if you're unsure of it's maintenance. One trip with a travel trailer might be the straw that breaks the transmissions back, if it hasn't had regular fluid/filter changes over it's life.

Rent them and go from there. Might be just as easy to load up the Suburban and stay in hotels/air bnb's for not too much more than RV spots and the additional fuel cost to drag the RV/travel trailer around.

Assuming 1/2 ton with the 4L60E trans ?
If so, I wouldn't pull anything too large or heavy with it.

If it has the 4L80E in it, you're good to go!

Just had the V4-V8 cylinder deactivation nonsense turned off. Now it is only a V8 engine. I'm afraid that system did result in some internal engine wear, as it burns a bit of 5W30 synthetic.

It is the 4L60E, RPO M30. I found the GM external ATF cooler option KNP is available separately, and in time, may install that with some aftermarket lines. I'll probably have the ATF swapped out, carefully, by the guys at the lab. May try the new DEX IX fluid additive with a 2007-vintage viscosity. Will wait to do this until I add the cooler.

The trailer brake controller wires are stubbed out under the dash, so adding an aftermarket controller should be easy.

I'm working out a host of very small issues for a few weeks. Radio knobs, plastic doodads for the armrests, power folding rear seats that won't fold, etc. Folding and adjusting mirrors are not working well. The windshield looks like sand was dumped on it, then the wipers engaged without fluid squirts. But, that's a simple replacement at some point.

The wheels (20 inch) were improperly cleaned and the chemistry destroyed their finish. We'll see what the detailer community can do for them.

Need to replace the radiator this week. Have all the parts and a technician ready to get it done.

Replacing the rear hatch glass gas cylinders and the exterior glass switch soon.

I love project cars.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:

It is the 4L60E

Before spending a bunch of money on this thing for a puller, I'd trade it for something that had a 4L80E trans. Normally found in all the 3/4 ton burbs.
The 4L60E is nothing more than an electronic shift 700R4... can't stress it enough, they're terrible transmissions! Most will fail under normal driving, add pulling to the equation and you have yourself a disaster waiting to happen.

I will be living with the 4L60E, and towing light trailers. My employer technicians can fix the transmission and upgrade it should it fail.

If this experiment works, the old Suburban will be sold and a 3/4 ton or 1 ton vehicle procured.

The mission is to tow trailers, and determine if the RV trailer is the right approach for us. We may decide that we would prefer a Class A motorhome.

I have to apologize but this crud I have has knocked me for a loop, at three this morning I was in the local hospital’s ER due to an infection in my left eye which by noon had also migrated to the right eye. A bunch of fun this has not been.

Still haven’t gotten those copies of the parts book yet.

Also I emailed you a link to the TSB regarding oil consumption in your engine. Let me know if this looks ok, if you cannot find it message me back, I’ll copy it and fax or email you a copy of it, well as soon as my eyes quit blurring.

Also, if the PCV valve is damaged you will have to replace the valve cover unless someone since I retired has either made a service replaceable one or has engineered a work around on their own. Remember if the flow is nit the coerrect CFM that can add a whole bunch of problems like oil consumption, bar running, SES light on, etc.

If towing be sure to use the Tow/Haul switch on the end of the gear shifter.

How does GM tow haul mode work?
The tow/haul mode reduces shift cycles. Depending on the truck, it may also boost torque and engage an engine braking mode to help drivers maintain control while driving up and down hills. In general, the tow/haul mode changes shift points to higher RPM limits. This helps you keep moving as you haul your trailer.