They just finished and they said it should function better now. The time consuming part was removing then refilling the refrigerant. Rerouting the lines to eliminate the 30" rise didn't take much time.

I don't leave feedback but I'll make a point to do so in this case.

If your electric service to your building will support enough 240 volt electric baseboard heaters to keep it above freezing inside when it's extremely cold, that would solve your problem.
I added two eight foot sticks of electric baseboard heat at the cabin. Because the Insurance Company wouldn't issue a "homeowners" type policy with the woodstove as the only heat source.
Wink Wink... The electric heat is "Primary" and the "woodstove" is Secondary.

IMG_20200523_181907836 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20200523_181917792 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

If I recall correctly, about $200 in pre-COVID dollars for all the materials.
I use the electric heat frequently during deer season when the cabin isn't occupied.
I will drive up from the house and change into hunting garments around noon, turn on the electric heat, and then go hunting.
When I return to the cabin at dark, the cabin isn't really warm, but it also isn't an icebox.
We don't heat the cabin when we aren't there, it would be exceedingly expensive. (water system is drained from October thru early May)
Firing up the woodstove for that type of short term usage would also be a pain in the ass.
I turn the electric heat off when I have changed back into street clothes and head for home.

The mini split maintains 62 (the coolest setting) all winter when I'm here. When away I set it to FP which maintains a lower 46* for "freeze protection". Thankfully the only time I've needed to use the two baseboard strips was a couple weeks back when the mini froze up. Hopefully rerouting the 30" rise out of the line prevents it from ever freezing up again, but if something happens it's nice having the baseboards for emergency back up.