That stinks, but be happy it happened close to home.

I drove a replica of a 1936 Auburn Boattail Speedster from Connecticut to Florida in the late 80s. On a Saturday, in North Carolina, I smelled an acrid smell. The battery was behind the seat and was boiling. No cell phone back then and by the time I got it towed off the interstate, it was too late for anyone to work on it. I spent Saturday and Sunday in a motel room because can’t get parts on a Sunday. Monday, I get hosed almost $1,000 for a new alternator, battery, the tow, the ride to and from the motel, the trip to the auto parts place to get the parts, etc. Plus the two nights in the motel.

I get to South Carolina and I smell the same smell. Fortunately, there’s a garage right at the next exit and for another couple of hundred, I get a new voltage regulator and another new battery. We had no problems after that in the next 7 years we owned it.

I miss that car. Driving it was like being in a parade wherever you went.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:

Big ticket repair due to alternator location. Big!

2010 Ford Edge with 3.5L V-6, alternator and battery almost $900. Labor cost was significant. That engine / vehicle combination resulted in high maintenance costs, mainly due to labor.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

I drove a replica of a 1936 Auburn Boattail Speedster from Connecticut to Florida in the late 80s. On a Saturday, in North Carolina, I smelled an acrid smell. The battery was behind the seat and was boiling.

1974, flying a friend's V-Tail from Salem OH to Chicago's Midway. Almost home (western Indiana), started getting an odor that was sort of like rancid fried chicken. A glance ammeter, voltmeter, realized there was an electrical problem. Shut down all electric systems, turned alternator off.

With no radio communication, entered the traffic pattern at Midway, eyes wide open watching for traffic and looking at the tower. Tower controller used his light gun to give me a green signal (clear to land); fifty-two turns of the hand crank to lower the landing gear manually. Landed, taxied to parking place, shut down, found a fried battery.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
Now I’m really mad! It is a bad alternator.

Big ticket repair due to alternator location. Big!

Based on YouTube video I do not want this repaired by a person who has never done this model.

Will get it fixed over the next few days.

That’s why I prefer an ammeter over a voltmeter.

Yeah, something didn't seem right when you indicated it 'failed while driving'. What model vehicle are we talking about here? Interested in knowing the engineering insanity involved plus, someone here might be able to provide guidance on better way to accomplish the alternator replacement vs the YouTube certified mechanic's video you speak of!

We have an Audi S5 w/ 4.2 V8 in our stable, and on that car you cannot even inspect the belt that drives the alternator w/o significant labor! Standing in front of the car, peering down into the engine bay, w/ approx. 15-20mm clearance between the front of the engine and the radiator support (Lock Carrier in Audi terms), it's not even visible! It's not really visible from under the car either! A real inspection, or replacement, as well as replacement of the alternator requires the removal of the entire front bumper and putting the vehicle in the 'Service Position', which involves disconnecting a lot of things in order to release the 'Lock Carrier' and move the entire ass'y forward 100-150mm. The Lock Carrier ass'y includes everything bolted to it, so radiator, AC condenser, power steering cooler, headlights...Pretty much everything in front of the engine! About the only solace is that the coolant hoses 'can' remain in place and draining the cooling system in not required. A similar exercise is req'd to access the oil cooler, which is mounted between the alternator and the engine block, as well as the waterpump/thermostat housing, located on the opposite side of the block. PAIN IN THE ASS that car is to work on!

2010 Lexus RX350.

Dealer is best place for us. $200 more than independent. Free loaner Lexus. Authentic parts. Procedure known.

Getting brake fluid flushed, new taillight, and peace of mind.

Second major repair. First was axle. Could not afford Lexus axle, so bought aftermarket and a colleague installed.

Repair completed.

Two days, and the suv looks showroom quality. Detailed for 25% the estimate of a local detailing shop. New taillight to pass inspection.

Enjoyed driving the loaner ES and learned it wouldn’t work for me. Too small.

Just a super experience in spite of the expense.

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
that's what a number of us were thinking...

Ditto! that was my thought, alternator going bad.

OTOH 34 months on a 24 month battery that your car discharged and ruined isn't bad...

Bought a battery for my motorcycle, 6 month warranty and at 8 months it's got a bad cell, thing is it's been sitting on a Battery Tender for three months and has a nice green light on it.

Had to buy another, bought this one from CaPhil our member, bought a better one, and a New battery tender, the other one wasn't keeping up.

On another note my 2003 Dodge Durango R/T Sears DieHard Platinum battery finally died a few months ago giving me 10 years of service I ended up purchasing a new one from Walmart for $100. I hope this one lasts just a long. God Bless