I have a new TV that I bought a wall mount for. I've got everything I need to get the project done from start to finish. I don't even have to make a trip to the hardware store. Then I get the stud finder out and find this particular wall has studs on 24" centers. The plate for the wall mount only works with 16" center studs. For fun, I checked every other wall in the house and they are all 16" centers. I didn't see that one coming.

A couple of two by four's will fix ya right up...
....as the tv will cover it all up.

I sat there and stared at it for a while trying to figure out how to make it work so I could get it done today. I just need to buy a new mount because all the other solutions I came up with waste more time and effort.

The wall has a textured finish and the mount is the kind that the TV can pull out and tilt. The TV won't cover any holes I cut in the drywall and matching the texture then painting is too much work. It's the garage wall, so I thought about cutting the drywall out on the other side, but still not worth it.

Is the TV so big wall anchors won't be sufficient?

Use one stud and heavy duty anchors. That is how mine is attached. Mine is not even a bracket just two discs on the wall that the tv hangs on a cord like a picture. I still trust it with a 65" TV.


I don't remember which brand I used, but something like this would work.

Screw a ledger board to the 24” studs, like a rectangular piece of plywood, then screw the mount to that.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:
Is the TV so big wall anchors won't be sufficient?

The mount articulates and allows the TV to come out 18" from the wall. I don't think wall anchors in drywall will be suffcient. The mount comes with 4 - 3 1/2" lag bolts.

On the other hand, the mount says 130lb TV max and mine weighs 35lbs. I'm thinking two lag bolts through the center holes in the wall plate into one stud will be fine.

quote:

I'm thinking two lag bolts through the center holes in the wall plate into one stud will be fine.

If it rips out of the wall, relax - the wall needed fixing anyways.

Running for cover now.

I had mentioned before in the previous post about using a “ledger board“, I think the more correct term is mounting plate.

You take a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and screw it to where you can hit studs and then you screw your mount to that:

^^^I appreciate the idea and understand the concept. What bothers me about it is: the mount I bought comes with 4 - 3 1/2"x1/4" lags screws. That means with 1/2" drywall the people that designed this planned on 4 - 1/4" lag screws to be to be screwed 3" into 2x4 studs.

I could mount a 1/2" piece of plywood using those lag screws with some big washers of course, but how do I mount the plate from the mount kit to the 1/2" plywood that gives the same pull out strength as 3" of pine? I could bolt it through the plywood, but then the bolt heads will be smashed into the drywall. You obviously can't recess the bolt heads into 1/2" plywood.

How is your parent's dryer???

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
^^^I appreciate the idea and understand the concept. What bothers me about it is: the mount I bought comes with 4 - 3 1/2"x1/4" lags screws. That means with 1/2" drywall the people that designed this planned on 4 - 1/4" lag screws to be to be screwed 3" into 2x4 studs.

Sure, because they provided hardware to match the wall mount's load-handling capability, which is 130 lbs, up to 18 in. from the wall.

But you are putting a mere 35 lbs. on it.

Look at this product: E-Z Ancor 50-Pack 1-5/8-in L x 1/2-in dia Standard Drywall Anchor (Screws Included. They're rated at 75 lbs. in 1/2 in. drywall.

This product: TOGGLER SnapSkru 50-Pack Assorted Length Assorted Diameter Kit Drywall Anchor (Screws Included) has both 65 and 79 lb. rated fasteners.

There are two kinds of load: Tension and shear. They don't say whether those ratings are tension or shear. Plus you're putting a cantilevered load on it. Still: It's a mere 35 lb. TV and you'll have at least four of them. The vast majority of the tension load will be on the top two screws, but, still: Combined, you'll have ±4 times the holding power as the weight of the TV.

I think that as long as nobody uses the thing for chin-ups, you'll be fine with the right drywall anchors.

The lag screws are metric and more like 5/16”. I’d put money on there are no drywall anchors that can match the pull out (tension) of 3” of 5/16” lag screw in pine. Even if there was, the next weakest point would be the tiny little drywall screws holding the drywall to the studs.

That being said, I went ahead and used 4 - 1/4” Togglers in the corners and two of the lag screws in the center into the stud. No one was electrocuted in the mounting of the wall plate even though there’s a wire running down the stud.

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
How is your parent's dryer???

I dropped the ball on that and didn’t follow up. I received an email from them saying they received my email listing the part numbers we need. I’m going to call Speed Queen in the morning and find out what’s going on.

I’ve cut a hole in the wall where the tv would hang, and I added horizontal bracing between studs. Screwed the drywall hole back on, muddied it and painted, then mounted the tv bracket. No way would I trust a four hundred tv to some drywall toggle bolts.

I've done that as well, but this wall has a heavy trowel finish there's no way I can match.

To be clear, there are two M8 grade 8.8 (tensile strength of 116,000psi) lag screws with 3" of thread into the 2×4 stud in the wall.

I used the 4 Togglers to make ensigmatic and Skins happy.

I used a 3/4” thick mounting board. Counter sunk for flat head machine screws on the back side. Mounted the tv bracket (same type - extending/swivel) with nuts on the front side. Then used tapcon screws through the board into the mortar between the bricks of my oversized brick mantle. Oh, paint the board with the same wall paint before mounting. It,s only a 50” tv, but it does have a 200w sound bar hanging on it too.

I did this in the event we move (us or the tv)…. Gray sanded caulk if I’m lazy, or real mortar into the screw holes, and it’s like it was never there. I did get carried away with using 12 of the concrete screws, but just as well, two of them stripped out.