Couple of weeks ago, the Cabota got hard to start and over a 2-3 day period, got to the point it flat wouldn't start, period.

I troubleshot things far enough to deduce that it was getting fuel TO the injector pump, but nothing coming OUT of the injector pump. My first suspicion was the stop solenoid, which cuts off fuel to stop the engine.

Having exhausted my knowledge of Kubota diesels and not having the skills or equipment to troubleshoot it further, I winched it up onto the trailer and hauled it to the dealer.

Dealer's shop was backed up something fierce and they didn't have the solenoid on hand anyway, so I left it.

Two weeks and $700 later, it's back in service. Stop solenoid was indeed bad, but so was the Engine Control Module. See, turning the key on or off doesn't just control power to the solenoid...NOOOOO, that'd be too simple. The key sends a signal to the ECM and the ECM controls the solenoid.

Gee, the electronic doodads that make life SO much better bit me in the ass again. Whodathunkit?

Sometimes wonder if I wouldn't have been better off to invest in a cab, ac and power steering for the ol' John Deere.

Newer isn't always better.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:Stop solenoid was indeed bad, but so was the Engine Control Module.

I always raise an eyebrow when two things fail at the same time. Can happen, and sometimes one failure precipitates another, but still... I can't help but fear they are just throwing parts at it when that happens to me.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:Stop solenoid was indeed bad, but so was the Engine Control Module.

I always raise an eyebrow when two things fail at the same time. Can happen, and sometimes one failure precipitates another, but still... I can't help but fear they are just throwing parts at it when that happens to me.

That thought occurred to me as well, but I couldn't see any way of pursuing it that ended well.

Could you have hotwired the start solenoid? Just a little shot of 12v?

quote:

Originally posted by rburg:
Could you have hotwired the start solenoid? Just a little shot of 12v?

Wasn't the start it was the stop solenoid that cuts off fuel to stop the engine. When you turn on the key, it's supposed to pop open to let fuel pass. It would spin the starter fine, but the engine wasn't getting fuel.

I actually thought about removing it and trying to start the engine but I wasn't sure what all went on inside the pump and wasn't about to stick my finger in there to press the plunger to stop it.

I could have tried 12v direct to the solenoid and see if it pulled in to allow fuel.

Also, thinking about it, it makes sense for the stop solenoid to be controlled by the ECM, because at least two safety switches will also stop the engine: Seat switch and PTO switch. If you stand up while the tractor is moving, it kills the engine. If you want to use the PTO without being in the seat, you have to have the range shifter in neutral and set the parking brake or it will kill the engine.

How are things coming with the old gasser you got from the neighbor when you cut the trees?

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
Also, thinking about it, it makes sense for the stop solenoid to be controlled by the ECM, because at least two safety switches will also stop the engine: Seat switch and PTO switch. If you stand up while the tractor is moving, it kills the engine.

On my Kubota (B7800), you can get up with the rear PTO running by getting up and quickly pulling up the seat behind you (it is in the manual). I used to do this all the time when running my wood chipper. You have to get off to go feed the thing. As far as the seat switch, I simply bypassed it with a crimp on butt connector. I need to stand up as I approach something I am going to lift with my pallet fork frame. It's the only way I can see to position the forks. I always keep it in low range when I'm doing this (HST tranny).
 
The fuel problem I am experiencing as the tractor ages is if you let it sit for a long time, the fuel drains out of the injectors, and the engine stalls out after about 90 seconds. Then you have to prime them by cracking all four of them and cranking until you see diesel. Pain in the ass. Rather than attempt a fix or haul it to the dealer, I made a recurring reminder on my calendar to start the tractor and let it run for 5 minutes once every two weeks. If anyone knows how to remediate this, I would appreciate hearing it.

60 y.o. Curt has driven old ,used cars and trucks all of his life.

14 months ago, for the first time ever he went and purchased a brand new Subaru Forrester .

He had to call the dealer four times the 1st month.
And
He stopped by three times ,after that.

He really wants to love that car, but he is overjoyed that he did not trade in his 15 y.o. pickup truck.

"Thank God for you tube ", he says

@henryaz - I've thought about bypassing the seat switch, might yet.

Bush-hogged about 5 acres of fields today, and getting up close to the trees around the perimeter would fold the mirrors back. I REALLY like having the mirrors to watch the 'hog without having to look over my shoulder, so every time they flip back, I open the door and readjust them. If I scoot too far forward on the seat, the PTO safety will kill the tractor. Not a huge fan of shutting the PTO off for 3 seconds to adjust a mirror and then re-engaging.

Your injector issue indicates to me that they need to be rebuilt/replaced. I guess it depends on how much of a PITA it is to remember to start and run the tractor occasionally. Chances are the tractor would run better with freshened injectors as well.

BX24 TLB 2008 vintage. I bypassed my seat switch with a zip tie. Sometime it slips off plunger and goes back to working/shutting things off.

I do some unconventional things like get off it and raising/lowering fel from standing alongside position. Using hst peddle to motor frwd/bkwd while walking beside.

A better safety interlock for me would be a teather interlock like used on boats etc..

Safety interlocks getting buggy overtime. The MID PTO is troublesome always check each before committing to dealer visit. Many owners get stumped by these switches.

Growing up we had two tractors. A 1942 Ford 2n, and a 1953 MF 50 diesel. There were no safeties anywhere. In fact, the old Ford barely had brakes.

You only got one chance in those days. Get wrapped up in the PTO, get taken out of the gene pool. Get off a moving tractor, get run over and taken out of the gene pool. No do overs. You learned to be careful, but we did stuff that would make OSHA wet the bed.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
but we did stuff that would make OSHA wet the bed.

OSHA is staffed with bed wetters. Its part of their hiring process.

Reading this, I’m thankful for my 1985-built Ford 1910 tractor. However, i don’t have a front-loader...

PHP - how about one of those grabber sticks, keep one in the cab to push the mirrors back,

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
PHP - how about one of those grabber sticks, keep one in the cab to push the mirrors back,

I keep a folding grabber on my tractor for picking up things like rocks that have sprouted up out of nowhere. I swear, they appear like they have just grown there, so I just toss them over by the fence.

I didn't know the newer tractors had a seat switch. That would be the first thing I disabled. Hell, I'm constantly standing up or jumping off the tractor for something.