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Member |
The electric awning on my camper stopped working in the closed position. Checked the switch and it was good, so tried looking at the motor and you can't with the awning closed because all the screws are in the back against the camper, and there is no manual extension method. Called Carefree and the rep tells me you have to break the cover to get to the motor. It is designed so you have to break the cover, which is $125 to replace. One more time--it is designed so you have to break the cover. Who could ever take pride in a product such as that??? NRA Life Member "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt | ||
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Thank you Very little |
Have you googled the model number to see if others have had the same issue and perhaps posted a resolution? | |||
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It's not you, it's me. |
Out of curiosity, I googled it and found nothing about breaking it. | |||
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Member |
Can't access the 7 screws that are up against the wall of the RV and can't manually roll out the awning. So then what? I called a local RV repair guy who came out and looked at it, was perplexed so he called Carefree (and has an account with them). They told him same thing--break it. NRA Life Member "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt | |||
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Delusions of Adequacy |
Gee, then that should be warrantied under "manufacturing flaw" I have my own style of humor. I call it Snarkasm. | |||
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Member |
To make it like that on purpose is asinine. NRA Life Member "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt | |||
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Animis Opibusque Parati |
I found this information about replacing the motor on a Carefree Awning. It has directions for drilling and removing the end cap. I agree, this is not the best design. The instructions include this statement: NOTE: If the awning is closed and cannot be opened, it will be necessary to drill through the end cap to access the end plate screws. This will require replacing the end cap to complete the repair. https://www.carefreeofcolorado...or%20Replacement.pdf "Prepared in mind and resources" | |||
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Member |
Maybe kind of potato potato--break it, drill it, then replace it. Still a horrible design in my mind. NRA Life Member "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt | |||
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Member |
This is sadly quite common in design today because new engineers do NOT have and direct supervision. Back when I started in Engineering every single drawing was submitted to a Checker who insured it was correctly and fully dimensioned, satisfied the standards set forth in the Design Manual, and that it didn't have tolerances that could impact the final manufacturing cost. Now there isn't any review at all, if it can be drawn in CAD than in must be easy to manufacture. The end result of this is what you have seen here. You want to see an example that will really send you over the edge get the cost for replacing a Headlight Bulb on a new car before you consider purchasing it. It costs about 800 dollars to replace the headlight bulb in a 4 door Chevy Sonic 4 door because the entire front facia has to be removed to do it. Sadly this type of crap is so common today that about 50% of the cars and trucks currently in showrooms will have a HUGE cost attached for replacing a simple 15 dollar bulb. BTW, it's even worse for LED headlamps, those can push towards 3000 dollars for some models. I've stopped counting. | |||
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Member |
Okay, you got me beat. NRA Life Member "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt | |||
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My other Sig is a Steyr. |
Yikes! Looks like I would have been safe with my old truck if I hadn't taken the HIDs off of a Q45 and converted it to projectors. Definitely a pain in the ass, took three weekends and a few hundred bucks. I have been able to avoid several deer and other unlit obstructions just because I have more usable light (13,000+ lumens ). Replacing the lights is cheaper than hoods, fenders, etc... For $800 I would replace it myself and buy another P220. | |||
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