110k miles out of OEM tires and 80k out of KO2s you are a lucky man.

I rotate every 5k and have never seen much more than 50k on any set and of tires.

My current Falkens have a 65k treadlife warranty.

Even with a decent amount of tread left they will get noisier as they age and the rubber hardens. On super cold days my tires rumble a bit more until they are warm.

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
I wouldn't say that is impossible. My car eats pads from brand new to metal on metal in 10k miles. What it comes down to is that you got pretty close to 80k miles out of a set of brakes, and that seems pretty good to me. I've never seen the Green/ Yellow/ Red scale before though, because I just look to see if there is pad left and change them when there isn't.

Wow.....what kind of car do you drive that eats brake pads every 10k miles.

quote:

Originally posted by calugo:

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
I wouldn't say that is impossible. My car eats pads from brand new to metal on metal in 10k miles. What it comes down to is that you got pretty close to 80k miles out of a set of brakes, and that seems pretty good to me. I've never seen the Green/ Yellow/ Red scale before though, because I just look to see if there is pad left and change them when there isn't.

Wow.....what kind of car do you drive that eats brake pads every 10k miles.

2006 GTO. Gas, tires, oil. I usually get about 15k out of a set of tires as well. It's a fat pig of a car that gets driven spiritedly most of the time so it goes through all the consumables pretty quickly. It's a lot of fun when it's not broken though!

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:

quote:

Originally posted by calugo:

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
I wouldn't say that is impossible. My car eats pads from brand new to metal on metal in 10k miles. What it comes down to is that you got pretty close to 80k miles out of a set of brakes, and that seems pretty good to me. I've never seen the Green/ Yellow/ Red scale before though, because I just look to see if there is pad left and change them when there isn't.

Wow.....what kind of car do you drive that eats brake pads every 10k miles.

2006 GTO. Gas, tires, oil. I usually get about 15k out of a set of tires as well. It's a fat pig of a car that gets driven spiritedly most of the time so it goes through all the consumables pretty quickly. It's a lot of fun when it's not broken though!

I was so close to buying a 2004 GTO but reports like this scared me away. I heard suspension components wear out super quick as well.

When they are eligible for historic tags in MD, I might reconsider. They are fun to drive.

quote:

Originally posted by AirmanJeff:

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:

quote:

Originally posted by calugo:

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
I wouldn't say that is impossible. My car eats pads from brand new to metal on metal in 10k miles. What it comes down to is that you got pretty close to 80k miles out of a set of brakes, and that seems pretty good to me. I've never seen the Green/ Yellow/ Red scale before though, because I just look to see if there is pad left and change them when there isn't.

Wow.....what kind of car do you drive that eats brake pads every 10k miles.

2006 GTO. Gas, tires, oil. I usually get about 15k out of a set of tires as well. It's a fat pig of a car that gets driven spiritedly most of the time so it goes through all the consumables pretty quickly. It's a lot of fun when it's not broken though!

I was so close to buying a 2004 GTO but reports like this scared me away. I heard suspension components wear out super quick as well.

When they are eligible for historic tags in MD, I might reconsider. They are fun to drive.

Run far away. I loved the car like crazy when it ran, but it has been one expensive, hard to fix nightmare since the day I bought it. The engine/transmission are great, but the rest of the car not so much. The suspensions were inadequate to begin with and shot on most of them the day they rolled off the boat. Tons of electrical issues, driveshaft components disintegrate for no reason, rear diffs are made of glass. Terrible seat leather pulls apart no matter how well you take care of it.

I love the idea of the car, and it's incredibly fun when everything is working, but it's been $1,000 here, $1500 there constantly since the day I got it not including normal expenses.

Maybe they took the impact wrench to the lug nuts and over tighten them which caused the rotors to warp. Had that happen to me.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
Maybe they took the impact wrench to the lug nuts and over tighten them which caused the rotors to warp. Had that happen to me.

A fair guess, but not in this case. Not only do I rotate my own tires with each oil change, but in this case, I also happened to replace the craptastic two-piece OEM lug bolts with one-piece bolts a little over 2K miles after the KO2s and new brakes were installed by the shop that did the spacers. Nope - they were torqued properly.

Black mentioned that PowerStop has a reputation for sudden disintegration once they start to go. I'll run with that theory and keep an eye on these new ones. I'm not too concerned about it. Just went with the PowerStop kit b/c of high praise received on a KL Cherokee enthusiast's forum at the time.

-Rob

My powerstop brakes wore very quickly and I will not buy them again.

I can't comment on the brakes, but wonder if wheel bearings might not also need some attention based on some sound descriptions and symptoms. Hope it gets sorted out.

I went from brand new car to metal on metal in 39k miles on a minivan. It can happen.

As for your “green” inspection, that’s what we call pencil whipping. They do the work requested, don’t have time or inclination to do the “inspection” and send you on your way thinki your pads are in the “green” when they are likely yellow or approaching red.

Are the calipers working and releasing correctly?

I've had pads wear quickly but the slider pins became corroded/damaged and the caliper wasn't releasing properly.

This often shows up with uneven wear on the pads. Either the inside or outside pad on one tire will be worn much more than the other.

Did all the pads wear out together just very quickly?

Odds are quite good that your pads went bad that fast.

There are two things working against you here. One is that when you increase the rolling diameter of a tire you also increase the moment arm of the tire in relation to the brakes. Basically you give the tire a longer lever to work against the brakes with. That will increase the wear rate for the brakes unless you increase the rotor diameter at the same time you increase the tire diameter.

The second thing working against you is that you now have aftermarket brake pads on your Jeep. I have never in my entire life found aftermarket brake pads that lasted as long as OEM brake pads. Don't care what is claimed on the box or what the "reviews" claim or even if they have a lifetime warrany, AFTERMARKET BRAKE PADS ARE JUNK. The only exception to this rule is if you are installing a brake system kit from the likes of Brembo or Baer, companies that now provide OEM high performance braking systems to the automakers.

Tip here is that "Heavy Duty" is just text printed on a box. If you want the most long term economical brake parts for your car than go to the dealer and get OEM parts. In addition remember that larger diameter tires will decrease the service life of your brake pads.

BTW, I've seen mid 80's Chevy Caprices with hoopty wheels so large that they were unable to stop from 80 mph in a panic stop because the pads got too hot and stopped gripping the rotors. Good news is that the increases in tire/wheel diameters over the past 20 years has been accompanied by a similar increase in brake rotor diameters but even so you really shouldn't try to increase your rolling diameter by more than 1 or 2 inches.