Replacing a dryer vent hose today, went to Lowe's bought new hose and worm gear clamps, get ready to install and the damned hose clamps don't have enough run out to fit them over the hose.

Have to go to home depot, found some that were labeled on the clamp itself as 4 1/2". Get home checked the Lowes version,
4 1/4"!!!!! Come on you Chinese bastards, quit fucking with me.

And don't get me started that the hose dryer connecting pipe is UNDER the fucking house in the crawlspace. Fucking home builder can kiss my ass as well!!!

There, I feel better...a little.

I rerouted my dryer vent about 6 weeks ago. Now it is less than 1/3 the length and only has one 90 degree turn. It’s out the front instead of snaking through the basement ceiling.

I may of bought one clamp, but I dismantled the old piping, plenty left over.

I used to do dryer vent install and maintenance.
From what I’ve seen 80% of dryer vents don’t come close to meeting code. The run under your basement is most likely not up to code if longer than 25’ minus 5’ for every elbow.
We always used 5” hose clamps, easy to get around the pipe and clamped firmly.
Be sure you dont have any soft pipe in your basement run it is impossible to clean and a major fire hazard

Must have been metric hose clamps. They get you every time.

tell me , I gotta know that No one is using plastic vent hose .

No plastic hose, I have a rigid pipe below the floor to the outside wall vent, but aluminum flex hose from the dryer to the rigid pipe, that starts just below the dryer floor.

quote:

Originally posted by ffemt44:
I used to do dryer vent install and maintenance.
From what I’ve seen 80% of dryer vents don’t come close to meeting code. The run under your basement is most likely not up to code if longer than 25’ minus 5’ for every elbow.
We always used 5” hose clamps, easy to get around the pipe and clamped firmly.
Be sure you dont have any soft pipe in your basement run it is impossible to clean and a major fire hazard

ffemt44 tagged it, rigid pipe for the run and no screws.. METAL tape not duct tape... and NO Vinyl flex! 5" clamps is the way to go and never the ones with 1/4" hex heads... Here's another secret... you can use all rigid with elbows to connect behind the dryer if you just move the Washing machine and leave the dryer close to where it needs to be. Measure the run from the termination to the back of the dryer exactly and write this in permanent marker on the termination for cleaning the vent.

Speaking of code, I sure wish it was code to have all dryer ducts exposed and not hidden between ceiling and attic floor. I have no idea if I am clogged and bought a borescope to see if I am.

One more thing about dryers. Keep that dryer screen clean! My cousin almost burned down their house because of dryer lint. Thank goodness her husband was able to man handle the dryer out the back door while it was on fire!

Found out today that automotive spring type hose clamps are preferred. I replaced all mine with the worm gear clamp first chance I got. Spring clamp better than worm gear on hose clamps.
Nothing like getting it wrong all my life

Ours has one elbow if you could call it that where it enters the wall, then a straight shot to the roof.

Problem is where it's mounted we have to put the dryer to the left side, which makes it a PIA for moving clothes to the dryer from the washer as the washer door opens between them (front load) and you can't switch washer door sides.

If we put the dryer to the right it extends the run enough that the dryer can't evac the hot air properly and it doesn't dry as well.

I think AB once mentioned something that we could have put inline to help pull the hot air through the vent to offset the longer run..

For now we just live with it...

a lot of dryer doors are reversible .

are you sure that yours are not reversible?

As a chimney sweep, I'm asked on occasion to mess with a dryer vent.... (most sweep's are into that work but not me)... really good customer asked me a few years ago to clean his dryer vent... I had to tell him not only did it not need 'sweeping' but never would... checked the termination vent, lifted the litle flap and about 8" back was the inside of the dryer... straight shot out.

^^^One of the few things I like about our current house is that the dryer backs up to an exterior wall. Our does the same as it exits directly through the wall. Last house had a run that needed cleaning multiple times a year. House before that had a vertical exit up through the roof. Twice a year I would climb on the roof to remove the cap, then insert the hose from my wet/dry shop vac hooked up to the exhaust side to blow out crap.

quote:

Originally posted by bendable:

a lot of dryer doors are reversible .

are you sure that yours are not reversible?

It's the washer door that's his problem, not the dryer door.

Because of vent, dryer has to be on left side, which means washer has to be on right. Washer door hinges are on left side, he needs washer door hinges on right side, but washer door is not reversible. I know HRK personally, he is capable. If the washer door could be reversed, he would be able to to it, no question.

Almost as good as the original dryer vent here. Laundry room is adjacent to the garage so the vent terminated there, not through to an outside wall. Laundry room is situated between two rooms, room to the outside is the master bath.

Apparently, well according to the builder it's no big deal to vent moisture and lint directly into the garage. Just what my tools, my old cars and my bikes need.

We were in here about a week when I rerouted it outside. Straight wall pipe, slope downwards. Clean it couple times a year.

If you bought semi rigid aluminum vent and not the fittings for the ends,you are not connecting it properly. You are correct. 4" clamps may not open up far enough because the expanded aluminum type vent is larger than 4". You end up crushing it when you screw down the clamps tight enough to have a chance of holding.