Be very, VERY observant when you take a battery impact wrench apart. It looks simple, but there are lebendy-seven things that have to be in EXACTLY the right place for it to go back together and work.

Replaced the brush pack in my Milwaukee 1/4-hex impact. Of course the exact part for mine is obsolete, it being the -1 model. Took a chance and got the brush pack for a -2 and the critical dimensions appeared to be (and were...) the same, just some minor differences in the casting.

I had that sumbitch apart and back together a dozen or more times (all 15 screws every time!) before I got it right.

Brush pack has to fit in the slot between right and left halves of the case. Motor magnet has an alignment key. Planetary gear housing has an alignment key. Battery connector has an alignment key. Wires for light have to be tucked in behind the planetary gear housing. Wires from brush pack to switch have to be tucked into their channel JUST right. Drive chuck and planetary gears have to fit over the motor shaft and into the housing just right.

Then you have to keep it all in place while replacing aforesaid 15 screws.

Amazingly for me, I didn't use (very much) verbal lubrication and nothing got thrown.

quote:

Be very, VERY observant when you take ...... apart. It looks simple,

It is the curse of man especially afflicted to the DIY guy, we also don't look at instructions or read maps.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:

quote:

Be very, VERY observant when you take ...... apart. It looks simple,

It is the curse of man especially afflicted to the DIY guy, we also don't look at instructions or read maps.

I'm a Mechanical Engineer. I always read the manual and used to enjoy just studying a paper Road Map when they were available. The paper maps make it real easy to find alternate routes that can turn into a wonderful ride. Such as Plattsburg, NY to Lake George village via route 9.

I always take lots of photos when I do something like that.

It doesn't help the reassembly much, but at least I feel I'd taken every possible precaution to avert disaster.

I picked a decent Makita drill out the trash at work. It didn’t work so I opened it up and found brush was 180 off in the holder. The lead prevented thee brush from making good contact. I was happy..then I bragged to a coworker at what I’d found. It’s was his drill, so I felt bad an returned it to him.

Years ago I ended up with a dremel tool that came with a vehicle purchase. It had issues, didn’t work right.

For some reason I sent it back to the dremel factory. I likely didn’t save much over just throwing it away, they swapped it out & sent a new one. Yes, there was a little cost involved.

The OP's post reminds me of many years ago when I was bored and decided to clean my Sig P230 and went to the extreme of taking the trigger group apart... hood two days and and at least 8 hours to get that puppy back up and running.

Oh, and now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I tried the same thing with one of my first cordless Milwaukee drills... finally threw it in the trash.

Always fun to hear a “clink” as a small part hits the bench, or the floor, and you have no idea what-so-ever where it came from and you have to engage forensic mode!

I have stopped taking things like that apart . I don't have enough hands nor the patience for it .

Even though I am a professional mechanic, I am not good with such complex mechanisms. I farm out things like this.

This topic reminded me of going down the Wikipedia rabbit hole and finding this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub Fourteen gear ratios in a package about the size of a soup can.

I recently picked up a TZ75 because it was relatively cheap at 400 bucks and I have always wanted a CZ75. Note the TZ75 is an Italian Clone and reputed to feature a tighter slide fit than the CZ75. Anyhow in 100% original condition it has a few flaws. One of those flaws is a hammer spring strong enough to produce a 15-16 lbs. DA trigger pull. So I order up a lighter spring pak from Wolff Springs. The mainspring on these pistols is VERY similar to the main spring on a 1911. The only real difference is that the spring in a 1911 is retained and on a TZ/Cz/75 is guided by a long spring strut. Note, for that strut guide the spring properly during assembly requires that the hammer be cocked. So lots of tension involved while installing the bushing that retains the spring into that frame and you have to hold compression on that bushing while inserting the retaining pin. You got it, small round part under 20 lbs. of tension while trying to install a small pin in the cross hole. I was using the bench edge and my abdomen to hold the compression and reached for that pin. Launched that wee little bushing at sub orbital velocity into the depths of my 1200 sq. foot basement. Finding that was so much fun I never want to do it again.