I've been with Nationwide for years and this is for full coverage for a 2018 Ridgeline and 2019 Corolla, $300k liability. I checked Allstate and they quoted $2,495 not sure if it's worth switching for $170 per year but Allstate is $120 less on homeowners as well. Should I keep checking? Anyone switch from Nationwide or Allstate to another company and save much?

That's going to be very tough for any of us to judge, because it's going to vary wildly based on your exact coverage, location, vehicle type, age, and driving record.

For comparison, I pay $732 per year for full coverage (with all the optional bells and whistles) on one vehicle. So for me, even if insuring two vehicles, $2660 would be way too high.

But $2660 may very well be a good deal for you in your exact circumstances.

Your best bet is to get multiple identical coverage quotes specific to your exact circumstances, and compare between them, rather than trying to compare to other people of different ages in different areas of the country with different vehicles and different driving records.

Everything Rogue said. That's like asking if $XXX is enough to retire on with no other context.

Having gone through a very detailed comparison a few years ago, plan to spend some time to get a true apples:apples comparison, and it may not be possible so just understand the difference.

Also carefully consider your other coverages. If you also have Nationwide on house, umbrella, motorcycle, your home in Aspen, whatever, changing just one or two things may affect those premiums dramatically. It's a form of hostage taking, and I got so pissed off trying to unravel it I threw up my hands and stayed with current carrier rather than keep arguing over rates.

So, they won.

2 $30k vehicles and 1 $2K vehicle. Full/Max coverage on all. Reasonable deductible. No points. Multiple policies. $2500 annual premium ballpark. No incentive to shop around. Happy w/ agent and company (not Nationwide or Allstate).

A friend sent me a link rating approximate costs of different ins companies. USAA was cheapest but I don't qualify, next was Geico so I got an on line quote which came in at $787 for 6 months or $1,574 year. $1,100 less per year than Nationwide so I just switched! Now what pistol should I buy with the savings?

I pay $2600 per year, 2021 Volvo, 2019 Chevy Colorado. Lots of coverage, bundled with Homeowners and Excess Liability.

No tickets since 1974, no accidents, no claims.

You try Geico and reducing your liability?

quote:

Originally posted by BigJoe:
You try Geico and reducing your liability?

Yes Geico but with the same coverage, 300K liability, and $500 collision deductible so apples to apples. Now to work on homeowner's.

Here's some completely meaningless information. I pay $1600 for 2019 Fusion Sport, and 2017 Subaru Forester. I'm in VA, perfect credit and driving record.

I'm paying $1800/yr for full coverage on my 2 yr old bmw

if i added my daughter to my policy with the car i just bought her, it'd triple. so her mom insures her car on her policy.

Make a call to one or two independent insurance agents. They know what to do and do it well.
.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Here's some completely meaningless information. I pay $1600 for 2019 Fusion Sport, and 2017 Subaru Forester. I'm in VA, perfect credit and driving record.

$1,600 per year is about what my quote from Geico is, and on similar age vehicles. Nationwide was charging me $2,700 per year.

Sounds high to me. I believe we pay around $1600 for a 19 Ram and 19 Cherokee. Bundled with homeowners, great credit and driving record

Wow, we're paying $1200 and change for a 2012 Outback and 2013 WRX. Pretty similar coverage sounds like. Bundled with home with State Farm, no claims at all in 14 years. I can't imagine the value of your vehicles is that much greater, so I'd guess location has a lot to do with it in that you must be in a high claims area.

Nobody in this thread has mentioned miles driven. That actually has a huge impact on your insurance cost. I know this because I've adjusted my anticipated miles driven because of the pandemic and scored significant savings.

The specific model of vehicle you drive and your garage zip code also has an impact. The insurance company builds a risk model based on actual claims data for your vehicle and in your specific zip code. For example, my wife's 6 year old BMW X3 is almost as expensive to insure as my 2 year old Discovery, even though the Discovery is more expensive than the BMW at every state of its life. The reason? Probably because nobody seems to get into accidents with the Disco (less spirited driving, fewer on the road, older demographic of driver).

The only real way to tell is get apples to apples quotes.

Im too lazy to read but is there a dependent under 25 living at the address?

Tickets in the past 3 years or wrecks? At fault or not!

Any claims in the past few years?

Wife, me, stepson (he’s 37) on our insurance.
State Farm. Multi car, multi policy discounts. Homeowners insurance is part of that. Everyone has stellar driving records. All three vehicles are “low mileage” and travel less than 7k miles/year.
300k per person, 1M per accident, property damage 300k, uninsured and underinsured falls on those same figures. Includes towing, rental car, and Additional PIP of 100k.
$500 deductible on collision
$0 deductible on comprehensive

Three vehicles are 2017 Subaru, 2019 Jeep, 2019 Tacoma.
$80, $60, $70 per month, in order of vehicles above.

Homeowners is $35/month. (Coverage has been increased significantly).

I would say yes, you’re paying far too much. That said, we are older, credit is excellent, driving records are great, no claims in the past, live in a non metropolitan area (semi rural).

And $85 to join Farm Bereau per year for Nationwide.

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Nobody in this thread has mentioned miles driven. That actually has a huge impact on your insurance cost. I know this because I've adjusted my anticipated miles driven because of the pandemic and scored significant savings.

The specific model of vehicle you drive and your garage zip code also has an impact. The insurance company builds a risk model based on actual claims data for your vehicle and in your specific zip code. For example, my wife's 6 year old BMW X3 is almost as expensive to insure as my 2 year old Discovery, even though the Discovery is more expensive than the BMW at every state of its life. The reason? Probably because nobody seems to get into accidents with the Disco (less spirited driving, fewer on the road, older demographic of driver).

The only real way to tell is get apples to apples quotes.

Miles driven was never asked by Nationwide or Allstate, Geico's default form showed something like 10-12k per year which is about right for me. Naturally these quotes (Nationwide, Allstate, and Geico) factored in the exact same location, vehicles, and driver (just me). The 3 quotes were apples to apples.

quote:

Im too lazy to read but is there a dependent under 25 living at the address?

No, just me and unfortunately over 25.

quote:

Tickets in the past 3 years or wrecks? At fault or not!

One ticket 2 months back written as 59mph in a 55. Officer said just pay it (which I did immediately) and there would be no points. So does this count or not?

quote:

Any claims in the past few years?

Yes a comprehensive claim, a deer jumped from a bank and sideswiped my wife's RAV 4 three years ago doing something like $3,500 damage. At the time we were both on the same policy.

There's a comparison on auto insurance rates at https://cars.usnews.com/cars-t...-insurance-companies comparing rates. It's not an exact science because some ding you more for an accident, ticket, young drivers, vs others. Naturally overall rates can vary by region. But in their study they "average" rates across a wide variety of driver profiles and this is their order from cheapest to highest price.

1) USAA
2) Geico
3) State Farm
4) Travelers
5) Progressive
6) American Family
7) Farmers
8) Nationwide
9) Allstate

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Nobody in this thread has mentioned miles driven. That actually has a huge impact on your insurance cost. I know this because I've adjusted my anticipated miles driven because of the pandemic and scored significant savings.

The specific model of vehicle you drive and your garage zip code also has an impact. The insurance company builds a risk model based on actual claims data for your vehicle and in your specific zip code. For example, my wife's 6 year old BMW X3 is almost as expensive to insure as my 2 year old Discovery, even though the Discovery is more expensive than the BMW at every state of its life. The reason? Probably because nobody seems to get into accidents with the Disco (less spirited driving, fewer on the road, older demographic of driver).

The only real way to tell is get apples to apples quotes.

I changed my car from a pleasure vehicle to commuter and it only raised my insurance ~$15 per year. When I changed it, my agent never asked how many mile I drive.