Anyone know if the Grayguns SRT is substantially better than the regular Sig SRT?

interesting question...I'd like to hear as well. I am going to guess and say they are similar!

I would be interested in a comparison, also.
I am looking at an older used P series without the factory SRT.

As there have been no useful responses yet, I’ll offer what I vaguely remember from when the factory SRT mod was introduced some time after the Grayguns version.

What I recall was that although the two versions were very similar, users somewhat preferred the Grayguns SRT mod as having better trigger pull characteristics. A little lighter, a little smoother? I don’t recall other than that those could have been the impressions.

I'll echo what Sigfreund said. When I did my 229, I went for the Sig SRT only because I was having them do some other work anyway. However, I vaguely remember folks saying that the Grayguns version was actually better.

The biggest difference is that the GGI SRT allows the Firing Pin Block to reset between shots while the factory SRT does not

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Originally posted by 9mmepiphany:
The biggest difference is that the GGI SRT allows the Firing Pin Block to reset between shots while the factory SRT does not

What does that mean?

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Originally posted by kkina:

quote:

Originally posted by 9mmepiphany:
The biggest difference is that the GGI SRT allows the Firing Pin Block to reset between shots while the factory SRT does not

What does that mean?

I'm not sure how else to explain it.

Let me try this.
With the factory SRT installed, the Firing Pin Block does not impede the firing pin's travel between shots when you avail yourself of the shorter reset.

That is why early factory SRT modded pistols would sometimes double...until the factory increased engagement of the sear surfaces

The purpose of the firing pin block (the “safety lock” in SIG parts talk) is to … block the firing pin’s movement forward to strike the cartridge primer unless the trigger is pulled. The safety lock is pushed out of the way of the firing pin by the “safety lever” that’s connected to the trigger bar. When the trigger resets in the non-SRT mechanism, the safety lever moves back down, and that allows the safety lock to again block the firing pin.

The factory SRT mechanism, however, evidently does not permit the safety lock to move into its blocking position between shots. I’m not absolutely certain what “between shots” means, but it must have something to do with not resetting to the blocking position when the gun is cocked for the single action mode. Once the hammer is decocked, however, the safety lock evidently goes back to where it normally rests.

That makes sense, as my 229 did in fact double at first, and I had to send it back. Works fine now. I guess that's another prop for Grayguns.

Not to take away from what sigfreund said, however I have both GGI and SIG SRT's and the functionality, as far as I can determine, is the same.

The only difference between the two SRT kits is that GGI's kit includes a machined tool steel sear, while the factory SRT sear is a MIM part.

The dimensional tolerances on the GGI sear are quite precise, while I've measures variation on the MIM part as much as 0.0025". This translates to the likelihood of better trigger feel, though there's no guarantee of that if the hammer is MIM.

Both SRT kits use the same OEM safety lever, so there should be no difference in safety block plunger lift.

BTW, the safety block plunger has nothing to do with "doubling", it is there to block the firing pin channel until and unless the trigger is pulled to near its rearward travel. This causes the safety lever to push upward on the plunger to unblock the firing pin. This to prevent drop or inertia firing as well as an additional safety against letting the hammer slip and fall etc.

Thanks Bumper.

Yes, thanks for all that.

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Originally posted by bumper:
Both SRT kits use the same OEM safety lever, so there should be no difference in safety block plunger lift.

I don’t have any experience with the SRT mod other than when I installed an early factory version once in a pistol to see what difference it made in trigger reset. I therefore am only familiar with the claims about how it affects the safety lock feature. Do you believe that in that regard the factory and Grayguns mechanisms operate the same?

I have had both. I found just a hair of takeup, after reset, on the GGI SRT.
The factory SRT is right up against the wall, after reset.

I was disturbed by the slack in the GGI and they very kindly changed it out for the factory one.

Back then, my trigger finger didn't understand much of anything other than Glock triggers and the 226 was my first DA/SA.

I wonder if I would make the same choice, today.

Both are great choices and GGI is great to deal with.

Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by bumper:
Both SRT kits use the same OEM safety lever, so there should be no difference in safety block plunger lift.

There is no difference in the plunger lift. It is a matter of the factory SRT not allowing the plunger to reengage during the short reset (between shots)

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BTW, the safety block plunger has nothing to do with "doubling", it is there to block the firing pin channel until and unless the trigger is pulled to near its rearward travel.

The plunger does not cause "doubling"...it allows it as the plunger hasn't been allowed to drop back into the notch in the firing pin

One of the things that Bruce was very adamant about, in the GGI SRT modification, was that all factory safety features were still active. He discovered that the factory SRT disabled the safety plunger when he had it double on him while he was demonstrating it to an agency that was considering adopting the 226

quote:

The plunger does not cause "doubling"...it allows it as the plunger hasn't been allowed to drop back into the notch in the firing pin

One of the things that Bruce was very adamant about, in the GGI SRT modification, was that all factory safety features were still active. He discovered that the factory SRT disabled the safety plunger when he had it double on him while he was demonstrating it to an agency that was considering adopting the 226

I believe later versions of the factory SRT fixed this issue, or at least I haven't heard of it happening recently with new SRT kits from Sig. Am I wrong about this?

FWIW, I decided to spend the extra $50 on the GrayGuns version for my own upgrade. I'm incredibly happy with the results so far in dry firing, but haven't gotten it to the range yet, nor have I been able to compare side-by-side with my friend's Legion.

Please keep us posted.

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I believe later versions of the factory SRT fixed this issue, or at least I haven't heard of it happening recently with new SRT kits from Sig. Am I wrong about this?

Their first "fix" was to increase the engagement between the hammer and sear...which resulted to worst trigger pulls. Then they limited the availability of the parts to in-house installation only...so they could better control engagement.

I'm not sure where they are currently, as by go-to are the GGI kits

quote:

Originally posted by 9mmepiphany:
Their first "fix" was to increase the engagement between the hammer and sear...which resulted to worst trigger pulls. Then they limited the availability of the parts to in-house installation only...so they could better control engagement.

I'm not sure where they are currently, as by go-to are the GGI kits

Good to know, thanks.

I had took out yesterday for some live fire, and am extremely happy how well it shot. It will be a while before I get to compare apples-to-apples against a Legion, but from what you are saying it might not even be a fair comparison to their current kit if they did some hand fitting in those guns. Maybe sometime down the road I'll pick up a Sig kit for one of my range toys and have a better comparison, but all I can say for now is that I'm not regretting spending the money on the GGI version one bit!

Anyone have the “Sig armoer” srt tomcompare?