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| Member |
Hello Everyone, I have detail stripped quite a few firearms- but am doing so to a 2012 Sig P220 now- stainless, with milled slide. I was taught to always drive pins OUT by pressing/tapping the pin from the left side so that it 'popped' out on the right side. However, I see a few Sig videos that show the opposite directions used: tapping/pushing from the right side to 'pop out' the left. Before I do any damage, which direction is appropriate? Do I use the same orientation as my BHP, 1911, S&W, Glock, etc? or, is it really an issue of press out from right to left, and press in from left to right? please help me so that I can get everything disassembled for a refinish job. thank you Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | ||
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| Member |
I was taught right to left when removing and left to right when installing. | |||
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| Member |
Thank you! Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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| Freethinker |
If the slide has the solid firing pin positioning pin, the pin has crush ridges on the left end as it’s installed. Therefore as stated it should be removed right to left and installed left to right. If the pin is a roll pin, the directions of removal and installation don’t matter. ► 6.4/93.6 ___________ “We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.” — George H. W. Bush | |||
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| Member |
Hello, The pin is the roll pin. Thanks for that tip also. I am more familiar with older designs, and just wasn't sure if the right to left removal was correct or not. One last question: does the same right to left to remove rule apply to the sights? thank you all in advance. Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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| That's just the Flomax talking  |
On removal, it really doesn't matter although the sight was installed from the left so removal to the left may be easier. Sights must be installed left to right because SIG sights have a slight chamfer on the leading corner to help get the sight aligned and started. I hope I made that clear.  SightChamfer by GaryBF, on Flickr | |||
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| Moderator |
When removing a roll pin from the slide, direction doesn't matter. I find it easier to install right to left (easier for me to push the fp forward while driving the pin in) but again, it doesn't matter. __________________ "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." -Jeff Cooper | |||
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Master-at-Arms |
If it matters remember to use the punch as a pin as you drive it through to hold everything in place until you are prepared for it all to come apart. Foster's, Australian for Bud | |||
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| Member |
The older style, solid pin, is extremely difficult to remove and put a new one back in. The Germans were not thinking of having to remove that pin, much. | |||
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Member |
Solid pins are tight, no question. I use a method that works well. I put the slide in a padded vice with the pin close to the vise jaws. The allows me to hold the cup tip punch horizontally, resting the hand holding the punch on the vise. This keeps the hand steady and more easily keeps the punch perpendicular to the slide and in column with the pin. Hit the pin with the hammer moderately hard only once, then check punch is on pin end prior to hitting again harder if need be, repeat striking only once each time - this avoids the goof where the punch slips off the pin and then gets whacked! I have a Sunnen BP-10 pin press in my shop (much sought after but no longer made! :c) but have never needed to resort to it (mainly cause the shop is 10 miles from my gun room). The above works well for the notoriously tough P938 trigger pivot pin as well. | |||
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| Member |
Thanks for sharing. I've mushroomed several punches and pins, trying to pound them out and/or back in. Just got back from an armorer class. Instructor said that the solid pins can be replaced with the spiral pins, which are way more easy, but they will not last as long as the solid pins. | |||
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Unflappable Enginerd |
Don't know where that comes from, the spiral roll pins(single) are far less likely to break because they can flex, solid pins, not so much. I've replaced a LOT of broken solid pins(milled slide), and a fair number of double roll pins(folded carbon steel slide). Never seen a broken spiral roll pin(single), I'm sure they can break, just never seen one. __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Like a party in your pants  |
I broke the solid pin on my P220ST, I still believe it was the harmonics from dry firing that cracked it. This was a fairly frequent break down on the early P220ST pistols. I seem to remember that Sig would press in the replacement pins. I drove mine in and still have a ugly scar on the slide from a missed/slipped punch, they are in there TIGHT! | |||
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| Member |
Amorer Instructor working for Sig Sauer | |||
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| Like a party in your pants |
As I remember, Out= right to left IN= right to left | |||
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| Unflappable Enginerd |
Don't get me wrong, I believe he told you that, my experience just doesn't bear that out. I would personally rate their service life from shortest to longest as; solid FPPP, double roll pins, spiral roll pin. Sample size of, ummm, a LOT. Maybe they see something the rest of us don't... __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Member |
Thank you all. I think mine was a roll pin, but don't remember it being spiral. I appreciate the feedback! Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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