Some time back a discussion of 'how to keep your 229 grip screws from falling out' was underway.

Having such issue with my own, I took the advise on the forum here, and dosed the threads with green lock tight juice.

It was effective over the past year. Somehow the last range effort I managed to lose one of the grip screws despite being what appeared as 'tight'.

Never had such an issue remain unresolved, and prior to this particular model, never had recurring 'grip-screwitis'.

Wondering what current remedy may be for such an issue.

I use the blue loctite on mine and haven't had an issue.

I've heard all of the following at some point:
Blue Loctite
Clear nail polish
Teflon Tape

When I have had problems, I've used blue Loctite. It's a pain to clean off if you take your grips off with any regularity, though I admit I haven't tried any solvents.

I just check mine occasionally to make sure they are tight.

I would check mine with each range trip too. They remained 'tight' until after the last steel match, and suddenly one was simply ~gone~ without having been 'loose' per the screwdriver test.

I had used green loctite during that year, with what seemed 'great results'....as prior the screws would come loose each match or practice (something under 200 rounds).

Damn odd IMHO. Over the decades I've had dozens of fine handguns on the line--some for extensive periods--with no loosening noted.

I've always used blue LOCTITE. But I firmly believe that it's better to lose a grip screw than over tighten and damage the frame.

FWIW, I looked up the tech data on blue Loctite, and for removal of the cured product, they recommend soaking in methylene chloride following by scrubbing. That's not a particularly friendly solvent that goes right through nitrile gloves and burns like hell.

A sharp pick will fairly easily easily remove built up Locktite, poking oneself is not advised, but is arguably better then melting nitrile gloves into one's skin :c)

quote:

Originally posted by bumper:
A sharp pick will fairly easily easily remove built up Locktite, poking oneself is not advised, but is arguably better then melting nitrile gloves into one's skin :c)

That's the method I have historically used. I was just hoping to make it easier. I suppose I could take them into work and sonicate them in a DCM bath if I got real lazy.

Green is normally for already installed fasteners so I wouldn't use it for grip screws. Blue is what you need. Cleaning that works for normal people is physical removal and then use Loctite primer. That's always worked for me.

Been a Loctite fan most of my screw turning life, but for the grip screws I'm now using Vibr-tite . . . paint a bit on, good for multiple assembly/disassembly cycles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've also always used Blue Loctite. The grip screws on my 228 have been installed with it for the last 5 or 6 years and haven't worked themselves loose yet.

Purple Loctite may be another option, as it isn't as strong as the blue stuff, but would probably be stronger than clear nail polish.

At any rate, the SIG armorer's tool is great to have because of the special bit that fits the factory slotted screw heads properly and won't mar them, even if they're in there with blue Loctite.

Grease and honey have worked for me in the past also.

quote:

Originally posted by bumper:
Been a Loctite fan most of my screw turning life, but for the grip screws I'm now using Vibr-tite .

That's my preference as well and have never had any grip screws come loose by themselves.

quote:

Originally posted by jackimoe:
Grease and honey have worked for me in the past also.

Yep, honey works with no unpleasant side effects.

Blade-Tech secures the screws on their holsters with honey. No joke. Discovered that when I e-mailed them for a different issue.

I have successfully used a tiny rubber o ring on the shaft of the grip screw. Worked great for me.

In earlier discussions on this, Bruce Gray and others suggested white grease.

P229 Equinox
I never had a grip screw problem with any P229 until I was given an Equinox.
It pitches grip screws a lot.
Locktite did not stop that.
Now the problem is worse. The "socket" in the grip frame has broken. Since it is nothing but a bit of the frame extruded and threaded, the fix does not seem possible without some machine work, or an oversize socket that can be tapped. It cannot be sunk further into the frame because it would extend into the magazine well.

It's the only time I have seen anything on a Sig that I would call crappy.

I know I could probably send it back to Sig, but I'd like to avoid that.

In April of '15 a forum member with initials "FG", from South Carolina sent me a fix, but I have lost all information about it.

Does anyone have a fix? Or, can someone direct me to "FG"?

Just did something I hope will solve the problem.
I read this on another forum.
We got an 8/32 screw, then tapped the hole in the gripfame for it. We cut the screw to length and used "service removable" Locktite to hold it.

Next: fifty rounds at the range.

My email is in my profile.

thank you,

F. G.

The SIG grip screw is .154" X 36 threads per inch. M4 X 0.7
The hole in the frame is larger than that with 36 threads per inch.
The 8-32 machine screw is about .162" by 32 threads per inch and does work.

Better would be a 8-36 machine screw if you can find some. I did find some on e-bay
but they have a Phillips head. I have made grip screws out of a few of these. If you
want a couple email and ask for Black 8-36 grip screws for P229 pistol. I can
also send a couple of longer screws to use as a tap.

(My off the wall comments)It seems that there are gunsmiths that can place a Helicoil
in the threaded hole to make this repair, and I have disputed this because of the
small space and thin aluminum. A guy sent me a picture of his pistol with Helicoils
so the Helicoils can be done.

So the repair is done by making a larger threaded hole like 9-32 with 9-32 screw,
8-32 machine screw, 8-36 machine screw, or Helicoils. Also E2 grips can be installed.
If you have a truck gun, glue the grips on with Permatex and black Gorilla tape on the outside.