How do I smooth the DA trigger pull, what surfaces do I need to polish? Lighter springs will lighten the trigger pull, but will not smooth it. Are there any videos on this?

Sorry I cannot answer your question but a lighter mainspring can actually make a trigger stroke seem smoother because it reduces the pressure between parts: Less pressure = less friction = seemingly smoother.

I have long been convinced that when someone talks about how his trigger pull got smoother after a couple of hundred rounds it’s because the mainspring lost some power during that initial use and not that that much wear of the surfaces occurred. If enough metal got removed by operating the trigger a couple of hundred times to make a noticeable difference in roughness, how much metal would be left after a couple of thousand times?

Several parts in the firing cycle are stamped sheet metal which may have rough edges. You will do no harm by cleaning up the edges of the trigger bar, hammer strut, safety lever, etc. Just do not remove enough material to change any contours or dimensions. I would leave the hammer and sear surfaces to the professionals, although you can always buy replacement parts if you don't. Also make sure the parts are lubricated.

While I agree with sigfreund to a degree, I believe there may be micro burrs on some parts that will break off or wear with use.

Thanks

quote:

what surfaces do I need to polish?

There was a local shop that used to do SIG actions, they told me there were 23 surfaces that they polished.

I didn't feel the need to inquire further

Just finished my first trigger job, I just Flitz-polished all surfaces that were touching (worn bluing), kudos to GrayGuns spring kit and P-sait trigger, I now have an incredibly smooth DA, it's hard to believe all that polishing could make that much difference. I couldn't be happier, Thanks to all for the comments that helped me do this.

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
Several parts in the firing cycle are stamped sheet metal which may have rough edges. You will do no harm by cleaning up the edges of the trigger bar, hammer strut, safety lever, etc. Just do not remove enough material to change any contours or dimensions. I would leave the hammer and sear surfaces to the professionals, although you can always buy replacement parts if you don't. Also make sure the parts are lubricated.

While I agree with sigfreund to a degree, I believe there may be micro burrs on some parts that will break off or wear with use.

Enjoy your P220.

Congratulations on taking the leap. Flitz on cleaning patch/Q-tip is what I've used on all my Sigs. On some surfaces, I'll use a Hard Arkansas stone (very very fine), which is more polishing than stoning.

After I'm through I'll play with RP mainsprings. Generally, it's safe to use a 19# rather than factory 21# for my P226 and P229's. Always test with carry ammo though.

You could send it to Sig for an action job

quote:

Originally posted by 9mmepiphany:

quote:

what surfaces do I need to polish?

There was a local shop that used to do SIG actions, they told me there were 23 surfaces that they polished.

I didn't feel the need to inquire further

Yep. I will gladly pay SIG to do AEP. My cursing and throwing things is worth far more than the cost of them to do magic and I am way too impatient to try Bruce Gray.

You can do an easy test to "separate" parts of the fire control group to see where the "un-smooth" is.

Dry fire, hold trigger back, push and hold hammer forward all the way. Now cycle trigger back and forth - this tests smoothness of trigger, trigger bar, trigger bar spring, sear, safety lever and firing pin block plunger.

While holding trigger back, manually cycle hammer - this tests smoothness of hammer, hammer strut, and mainspring.

This simple test is not 100%, though almost so and can help isolate where the gritty or interference friction points are that need attention.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:

I have long been convinced that when someone talks about how his trigger pull got smoother after a couple of hundred rounds it’s because the mainspring lost some power during that initial use and not that that much wear of the surfaces occurred. If enough metal got removed by operating the trigger a couple of hundred times to make a noticeable difference in roughness, how much metal would be left after a couple of thousand times?

I typically don't see huge changes in smoothness over just a couple hundred presses unless something is really rough. But over the course of regular use, I do find significant action smoothing. And it's smoothing that remains even after putting new stock mainsprings back into the guns. FWIW.

quote:

Originally posted by bumper:
You can do an easy test to "separate" parts of the fire control group to see where the "un-smooth" is.

Dry fire, hold trigger back, push and hold hammer forward all the way. Now cycle trigger back and forth - this tests smoothness of trigger, trigger bar, trigger bar spring, sear, safety lever and firing pin block plunger.

While holding trigger back, manually cycle hammer - this tests smoothness of hammer, hammer strut, and mainspring.

This simple test is not 100%, though almost so and can help isolate where the gritty or interference friction points are that need attention.

Really good stuff!